900 GRAYSON - Yesterday's Diner, Today's Food.

Deep into Berkeley, running perpendicular to the waterway that forms the edge of the Estuary between Berkeley and the Bay, is where one will find Grayson Street. From the time I was old enough to swim I spent almost every Wednesday of every summer at the Sacramento River Delta, boating and waterskiing with my father. When I was fifteen, he began to bring along a young student of his, who also happened to be an apprentice pizza-maker. The student, whose name was Carl, worked for my uncle Frank at Granata’s pizzeria. After these long days on the water, we would spend many a night at Ninth & Grayson, concluding our day of recreation with pizzas and drinks at my Uncle Frank’s Pizzeria. It was called Granata’s.

As we drove to check out 900 Grayson — the scenery becoming more and more familiar — it was these old memories that were flooding my consciousness. They flew through my head as though the streets were taking me back to Granata’s. I suddenly remembered the glass-encased viewing booth between the bar and the restaurant where Carl and Uncle Frank would show off their tossing skills for me and my little sister; the big circular booth where my father held court with my sister and I, yelling “Hey Paisan” at passing Italian brethren; the crunch of the crust and the flavor of lovely green pepper melted into hot, gooey cheese. Being out with my father was an amazing feeling for a kid. Eating at Granata’s always felt like home. Mostly because it was.

It was with these overwhelming feelings of nostalgia swirling around in my brain, that I arrived at 900 Grayson. Unlike Granata’s it was certainly not a pizzeria, nor did it possess an oppressively dark interior and sixties-evoking red leather booths. Instead the restaurant that is 900 Grayson was a lovely little unassuming structure, like a tiny gingerbread house, sitting on the corner of Seventh and Grayson Streets in Berkeley. The interior was also light, airy, very Berkeley, with loads of clean simple wood and a very casual, but well thought out design scheme. It looked like we’d stepped right into grandma’s kitchen. Or a homey fifties diner, absent much of the chrome and with more bleached wooden tables. Either way, I was hungry and ready to make new memories with food.

The place is very, very small. So if you are going in for lunch, get there early or be prepared to wait. If you’ve got the time, it’s worth the journey. The fare is simple, fresh and well prepared.

I began by ordering a Chai latte, non fat. It was cold and I was in need of some warming up. They brought this lovely big homey cup of tea, with that wonderful cinnamon-laced taste of Chai and oodles of foam. It was perfect.

One of us ordered a cocktail, the Tequila Aquatic Sunburst (ironically named after the water, which is where my mind was). They do not have a full liquor license, so this drink is made with a grape based tequila. I couldn’t tell the difference, it had an agave taste to it. I found the cocktail really fresh and I loved the citrus tang.

Before they brought our mains we ordered some Shoestring Onions as an app of sorts. They were something delectable. Thin, perfectly fried, crunchy with a well-cooked onion in the center of the batter that was melty goodness. Sometimes the onions in fried onion rings can be stringy, and if not cooked well enough, they’re tough. This can make a filling that is out of sync with the fried outer shells, so they can’t really be eaten as one tasty bite. This was not the case here. These fried onion strings were out of this world. They had a nice Sri Racha dipping aioli along side them that was likewise delicious.

The grad student had the Stone Soup, (a clever little touch, from the book of the same name, which at 900 Grayson means soup that changes daily). Today it was squash. She found it to her liking, not too sweet, the savory seasonings melting into the sweetness of the pureed squash.

I ordered a Lady Boy Salad, with Prawns. It was a lovely fresh concoction of Lemongrass-Kaffir Lime Prawns, Mango, Daikon, Carrots, English Cucumber & Rice Noodles Fresh Basil & Mint, Sambal Vinaigrette Dressing, Toasted Rice Powder, Micro Tatsoi Greens. The colors all blended on the plate to give a sense of attractive lightness to the dish. The mango and citrus-tart leafy greens all went well together, and the dressing on the prawns had a nice Asian flair to it. Tasty

The grad student and our PFC shared the Pulled Pork and the Burger, which they ordered rare. The pork was good, but they felt it might have been stewed rather than smoked. Not a huge deal, but smoked does give it a more robust flavor, forcing more seasoning down into the meat itself.

The Burger was rare, having been cooked correctly. The bacon on the burger was chewy and rendered properly, the entire affair had plenty of cheese melted all over it. They enjoyed both.

The piece de resistance at this place is a dish called the Demon Lover, which is essentially fried chicken & waffles. One is given a choice of sweet syrup or a thick country gravy. The BH is a savory meat kinda guy, so he went with the gravy.

The food here is fresh. Can’t use the word enough, because it’s obviously an emphasis of the management. The food sources are purchased locally, and everything, or almost everything here, will gladly be rendered vegan or vegetarian upon request. Many dishes have versions that will easily accommodate the vegan/vegetarian appetite already listed on the menu.

It’s a nice place. Cozy. Welcoming. Intimate. A lovely little diner for the new age of food. Check it out for yourself. Bon Appetit!
 
900 Grayson

900 Grayson Street
Berkeley, CA 94710-2618
(510) 704-9900
http://www.900grayson.com/

Dining time: except for any wait, service was plenty swift
Noise Level: TWO BELLS - Can talk easily

BOOT & SHOE SERVICE - Italian Food with Heart & "Sole"

About a week and a half ago my husband had to attend a mediation. We work together, so I was left ‘abandoned’ in Oakland over dinner-time while I waited with the car to see if he’d need me to bring him home. I saw this opportunity for what it was, a chance gift from the gods to get to one of the many restaurants I’ve been dying to try in Oakland that are not open for lunch. I have a long list of selections that only serve dinner. So here an opportunity was presenting itself for me to try one of them. How fortunate for me!

As I was reviewing my list, I came across a particularly intriguing name “Boot and Shoe Service.” That name itself conjured up an image of my grandfather, who was a magnificent cook. He arrived in this country in about 1917, fresh off the boat from Italy. His first stop, so the story goes, was on Park Street in Alameda. He had visited a dry goods and shoe repair store to get his shoes re-soled. When they were ready, he complained to the cobbler who had fixed them about the shoddy job he had done. My grandfather said that he could have done much better. The cobbler replied “Then go ahead,” and invited him into the shop. It seemed to be a challenge, and my grandfather liked nothing better. My grandfather loved to tell us how he not only repaired the shoes, but did the job so well that he was hired on the spot to work in the store. He ended up owning the store in under a year.

With it’s serendipitous name choice evoking my family history, and given that Boot & Shoe serves Italian food, I decided this was tonight’s winner. Founded and co-owned by one of the pizza chefs formerly with Chez Panisse, I figured that my odds for a good meal were high. I called the Grad Student, a favorite eating partner of mine, and we were off to eat up.

We got there a bit early, and they weren’t open (seems to be happening to me a lot lately!) We stopped in next door for a cup of tea. It was cold and rainy out, but we wanted to maintain a pair of healthy appetites. We started with drinks. I had a tequila concoction that was really tasty. Smooth with a kick of bitters to follow the taste down. It never ceases to amaze me the things they can do with liquor these days. At first we missed the bar altogether, as it is located in the far back through a narrow doorway. It’s almost like a hidden secret room. Gives the area itself a cool mystique, while helping to keep the noisy bar crowd from completely overwhelming the eating crowd. Probably a coincidence of the original architecture, but pleasing, nonetheless.

The grad student ordered a wine, and the waiter was extremely helpful. She wasn’t sure which of the two reds she was thinking of would be the most to her liking, so they brought her a tasting of each. It was a classy touch and allowed her to select a wine with certainty. I love thoughtful customer service.

After we settled in with our drinks, we were all over the menu in search of a couple of apps. We ordered the Burrata & Radishes because, well because it was on the menu and neither one of us can resist a shot at a good burrata. This one was magnificent. It presented as a soft, buttery whipped mass of creamy cheese. So light it might as well have been clouds. Really melt-in-your-mouth perfection. The addition of just a hint of olive oil drizzled over the cheese and the crunch of the radishes offset by bits of delightfully bitter arugula, really an outstanding dish.

We were sitting there drooling and thinking there could be nothing tastier on this earth, when we were presented with our next appetizer. It was a Sunchoke Sformato. We’d ordered this dish because we were curious. Sometimes curiosity doesn’t kill the cat. Sometimes it makes for purr-fection. This was one of those times. It was essentially an egg dish, a bit like a souffle, but smoother. Something like the consistency of pudding, but savory rather than sweet. It is very, very difficult to describe just how unexpectedly different the taste and texture of this dish is. The surprise texture, the addition of the Porcini Mushrooms and Romanesco Cheeses blended into the eggs... I can say only that the experience of tasting it, coupled with the element of surprise at it’s unknown qualities making themselves known, made eating it delectable. It was a home run.

We capped off our meal with the obligatory Pizza. It is, after all, a pizzeria. I am really really fussy about pizza. I don’t have a thin or thick crust rules fetish or anything, I’ve actually been known to enjoy both. The heavily laden pizzas I grew up with at Granata’s in Berkeley were my idea of heaven for years. Now I am just as happy eating a thin crust from Dopo, or the ever evasive “perfect Chicago-style thick crust pizza” which are okay at Zacharys’ but not anything that really moves my soul. The pizza we chose this evening was a Potato, Fontina, Pancetta and Rosemary mixture. It had a lovely crust, thin, but not super thin. The flavor was consistent and I enjoyed the herbs used in the seasoning. But it was just good. Nothing about it that I found particularly inspiring.

At this point I wanted another drink, but I got a call from the BH to let me know I had to drive home, so the second drink became a House made tonic. Gotta drink responsibly, after all. Frankly, I was rewarded for my responsible choice as it was remarkably delicious. The drink was sparkling and intense, crisp and tangy, its fresh ginger palpable in the mix. Not sure what else they used to concoct it, but I would definitely order it again. It was not just really good, it was splendid.

That was pretty much the meal in toto. A late night at the office salvaged by a good meal (I was feeling sorry for the BH, but he ended up having dinner in the City, so hey, he did okay. Isn’t that always the way?) Definitely check it out. I’d order one of the other pizzas unless you are really fond of potato. Bon Appetit!

Boot and Shoe Service
Neighborhoods: Lower Hills, Grand Lake
3308 Grand Ave
(between Lake Park Ave & Santa Clara Ave)
Oakland, CA 94610
(510) 763-2668
http://www.bootandshoeservice.com/

Table size: adequate
Noise level: 3 -4 BELLS

ADESSO ~ Salumi, Sopresato & Cheese, OH MY!

A few weeks ago on a Tuesday night, the Bh and I were finally convinced to try out the scene at Adesso, a happening little gem of a restaurant that has modeled itself after the Italian osteria.  Cured meats and wine, and a lovely spread in the late afternoon. Free. Yes, you heard me correctly.  When we walked into the Happy Hour at Adesso in Oakland, I knew I was definitely not in Kansas anymore. 

The space is small, the food is varied yet simple, and the bar is well-stocked. This little gem reminded me of Italy in a big way.  Situated as it is at the tip of Piedmont Avenue, the parking is tricky.  Street only, and not a lot of it, but it can be done.  They offer the free aperitivi every night from Monday through Saturday. They put platters out right at five o'clock and again at six.  I believe they put them out just before closing as well, which varies from 10:30 to 11:30 depending on the night of the week.

I do not know the names of everything they served on the buffet wall.  The pictures will, on this occasion, have to suffice.  In addition to the free aperitivi, I ordered a platter of their sopresato, which is a thick salami like meat that was delicious.  Various sausage-y meats and cracked pepper were all I could readily identify.  I believe all the meats are prepared on site.  Adesso has a full bar, and makes really tasty drinks as well.  One of us had a Grapefruit Gimlet, and I had this spicy ginger beer & tequila affair that tasted home made. I've never tasted home made ginger beer before, and I loved it.  It complemented the tequila perfectly. 

This isn't the sort of meal I can wax prolific about.  This column is more of an amouse bouche.  A party of any size could fill up on their buffet, or augment it with some of their fantastic house meats and cheeses.  Essentially, the place reminded both my husband and myself of our first night in Venice.  We'd taken the taxi-boat into the heart of the City, and walked from our hotel looking for food. It was five o'clock there too, and in Italy, that is nobody's dinner time.  We were jet-lagged and hungry and so Francesco at the hotel had suggested we try a local osteria, where he was sure we could get meats, cheese, and a glass of wine to quell our appetities.  It was the BH's first meal in Italy and it really stuck, so eating here, at Adesso, woke up that adventure for him in a palpable way.  But isn't that what dining is all about?

I believe that just about anyone can find something here they will enjoy.  If you haven't been yet, do take the time to check it out.  Being free, the food goes quickly, so I would suggest you get there on time (either right at five or six when they set out the trays) Bon Appetit!

Adesso Oakland
4395 Piedmont Ave
Oakland, CA

510-601-0305


Note:  We arrived at about ten-to-five, and were not admitted.  They weren't ready. When they say they open at five, they mean it, and not a moment sooner.  As promised, they did open their doors promptly at five.  Be there on time, and be ready for a treat.

Table size: we ate at the bar, so no idea but they looked adequate.  The bar was spacious and it had lovely little purse hooks underneath it which made a nice place to stick my bag, which is big.  Ladies will appreciate this feature.

Noise Levels:  As of today I will be using the SF Chronicles rating system for noise, for purpose of standardization.  They rate noise as follows:

ONE BELL = Pleasantly quiet; TWO BELLS = Can talk easily; THREE BELLS = Talking normally gets difficult;  When in full swing, Adesso is noisy folks.  It's a bar. FOUR BELLS = Can talk only in raised voices; BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation.

TAMARINE - Dinner on the Orient Express...

I found myself at Tamarine, in Palo Alto, on the occasion of my birthday.  Actually, it was for a dinner fete several weeks following the actual date, but its purpose was to celebrate the anniversary of my birth, nonetheless.  What can I say, I'm a lucky girl.  I got a "re-birthday" celebration.

When we arrived we couldn't find the door.  After much stumbling around at several locked glass doors, we noticed a large party conversing against some curtains, and I realized they were blocking the doorway.  We made our way around this rather thoughtless crowd (a story for another day) and into the restaurant.  Our companions had already been seated and waved us over, so I took this opportunity to thoroughly check out the restaurant's decor and furnishings on my way to our table.  My impressions were all extremly positive.  After spending a large part of the past twenty years mounting theatrical productions, I believe I have developed a deep appreciation for the "staging" techniques used in other mediums.  Restaurants that set their stage well can by doing so, successfully enhance the diner's pleasure. This is such a place.  It's a study in light airy fixtures, smooth laquered wood, beautifully laid out spaces, a lovely bar.  It is a setting that evokes adventure, and then there's the name...  Tamarine. 

Tamarine checked her bag for her ticket as she entered the dining car.  She found a seat at the first empty table, the one closest to him.  Her pale skin reflected the moonlight streaming through the window as the train sped through the mountains.  Tamarine tapped her cigarette against the teak of the windowsill.  She flicked her lighter open unsuccessfully.  Her hands were shaking.  She was nervous.  She needed a stiff drink.

I ordered one of the house specialty cocktails.  The Orchid   The drink was pretty and strong.  A winning combination of rum with yuzu. Sweet but not too, too --- mostly really refreshing.  It had an odd familiarity, it tasted like a lightly chilled, not-so-hot toddy.

The waiter brought her the cocktail. She raised the frosty glass to her lips. Was that the scent of cinnamon? Thankfully, the rum would settle her nerves. She took another sip just in case. My, this was good.

Quite a few of the appetizers here looked intriguing, so we ordered several.  The Shrimp Croquettes were a study in crunchy and moist.  Crispy-crusted  meatballs with a soft shrimpy center.  They arrived in a cute basket of noodles that formed a little nest, like some mama bird had just laid several perfect little fuzzy eggs o' goodness.  A well-plated dish. Perhaps a tiny bit prettier than it was tasty, as without sauce, the exterior or these meatballs tended towards the dry side.  Thankfully the addition of a sauce of sweet chilis, enhanced with a pinch of coarse grain mustard gave them a juicy kick.  The heat of the sauce cut the fleshiness of the shrimp and gave the mouthful a better balance.

The next item on our list was a dish called Tammy’s Banh Bap.   A steamed corn cake is steamed in a banana leaf, then a generous helping of pulled pork is layered over the cake and the dish is finished off with a healthy glazing of  chili-coconut cream sauce.  Complex & tasty, I really enjoyed this one.  I can't seem to say no to anything corn, and don't get me started on juicy barbequed pork.  The corncake was sweet, and --- oddly enough --- it had a consistency a bit like rice pilaf.  The starchiness of the cake formed a moist, absorbant base for liquid coating the strands of pork atop it.  The meat was well-seasoned, savory and juicy, it's smoky flavor resonating with hints of black and maybe a bit of red chili pepper.  The juices of the meat mingled with the chili-cream sauce, and all these liquids flowed together, downwards, ending in puddles under the starchy corncake.  Little pools of golden-brown deliciousness.  I found myself chasing the damp bits of the underside with my fork, determined to find the places that were well saturated with all the flavors.  Of course I tried to be nonchalant.  Can't tip the others off or they might fight me for the goodies.

Her appetizer was a platter of small steamed dumplings.  Tamarine wasn't accustomed to Asian food, but she stabbed at one of them tentatively with her fork.  She took her first bite of the spicy pork, and though the flavor was unfamiliar, it was good.  Suddenly she was hungry.

After a moment I regained my composure and turned my attention to taste the Shrimp Cupcakes.  These were one of my favorite treats of the evening. They are served up in lovely little rice cups, to mimic the paper basket of a cupcake.  Sitting inside them are these puff-pastries of shrimp meat, moistened with a mixture of shrimp-coconut milk, green onions and a nice sprinkling of seasoning.  These baby prawn cakes are set off to perfection with a Vietnamese nuoc cham (a slightly sweet dipping sauce of garlic and chili paste) that was ecstasy to the tongue.

The next bite I had was a darling little play on the steamed Pork Bun.  They serve them here in almost exactly the same configuration of flavors, but as an open-faced sandwich with much more pork.  It's fresher, and better.  Thumbs up! 

It is January.  Even in California that means cold winter weather, which in turn, means if I am offered it, I'll order a soup.  We selected two kinds of soup to share between the four of us.  A Kabocha-Corn Soup, which is a creamed mixture of a lovely meaty Japanese winter squash, mingled with corn (again, yay!) and coconut.  They infuse the liquid with lemongrass which gives a nice acidic balance to the creamy, savory broth.  It was hearty and delicious. Squash makes a great soup.  The consistency just lends itself to being creamed and strained to perfection, kabocha has an exceptional sweet flavor naturally, even sweeter than butternut squash. It is similar in texture and flavor to a cross between a pumpkin and a sweet potato.  This starch adds a sugary component to the mix, and the other seasonings blended together to arrive at a very pleasing flavor, balancing the natural sugar well with the other ingredients.  Our second soup was a Ha Long Bay Soup a thin green consomme, with a nice coconut flavor as its strongest component, followed by notes of coriander.  The many lovely crab wontons bobbing about in the broth completed it nicely.

Tamarine sipped her green tea anxiously, allowing the heat of the cup to warm her hands.  Her fingers were stiff with cold.  Maybe she was too close to the window.  She gazed through the glass at the snowy landscape as it flew by.  The gentleman sitting at the table across from her was staring.  She could see his reflection in the mirror.  Tamarine looked away quickly, but she could feel his eyes boring into her.  A self-conscious flush crept up the back of her neck.

Time for our main courses, and they arrived on cue.  One of us ordered the Honey-Soy Roti Chicken a dish whose simplicity had really intrigued me initially. It lived up to those expectations in the mouthful I had.  The chicken was served boneless, and the meat was infused with its own juices, the outer skin crunchy-gold with flecks of char.  All of it drizzled with a lovely sauce of soy, "5-spices" and honey.  Five-spices chicken has long been one of my BH's favorites.  It is said that the Chinese were trying to create a combination consisting of all of the five flavors - sour, bitter, sweet, pungent, and salty.  Each chef has a slightly different variation of the spices used in his or her grouping, so I am not certain which spices were in this dish, but the result was a hit.  The one sour note in this dish might have been the spicy papaya salad.  It was really peppery and almost too hot for me... and I love habanero.  I have to say there wasn't a good balance to the salad, it was just too much heat, not enough flavor. 

I had the Tamarine Prawns which were a "flash-fried" jumbo prawn, bathed in a gently sweet Tamarind sauce over another nest of crispy rice noodles.  The fryer had not made them at all greasy, and the thick sauce was sweet without being cloying.  It clung to the perfectly cooked prawns like a snuggly blanket of flavor. Lovely in color and consistency, this dish was another treat.

Another of us had orderd the Shaking Beef --- it was a terrific dish, chock full of big "bouncy" cubes of beef tenderloin, all sauteed in a sauce of  soy, garlic and onions.  This dish was perhaps my favorite of our mains.  The meat in the bowl arrived with this lovely brown glaze, and to the taste, had a nice texture inside and out.  The resistance of the slightly grilled exterior gagve way to the teeth with a burst of its juicy innards.  The seasoning held a peppery afterbite on the palate, yet it didn't smother the meat.  The flavor of the beef came right through it and for me was the star of the evening.  Mingled with a bit of the watercress salad accompanying my mouthful had a  nice fresh balance when mingled with a bite of beef.

Tamarine tasted her steak.  It was delicious.  The chef had prepared it just the way she liked it.  She dabbed her lips carefully with her napkin, taking care not to smudge her lipstick.  She reached for her drink and knocked her napkin to the floor.  Before she knew it, he had handed it back to her.  Who was he.  Why was he on this train.  What did he want from her?

The Hoisin Lamb Chops were equally good. They do something really amazing with the heartier, dark meats like lamb and beef here.  It's keeps its natural plumpness, and within the juice of the meats (both of them) was a bang, this loud explosion of perfect flavor.  The lamb was done up nicely with a hoisin, garlic and rosemary and served with baby bok choy and sweet potato fries.  The entire meal seemed to me to be the perfect procession of flavors and textures, each dish promising a bounty with scent and artistry of presentation, with all but a tiny few bites subsequently living up to that promise.  

We topped off the evening with a Butterscotch Pot de Creme w Golden Blondies which was a rich ‘pudding’ completely and unabashedly butterscotch.  It had by its side several very moist and chewy blonde brownie bars.  We also shared a Strawberry Lemon parfait a standard parfait, nicely put together with the flavor of the lemon serving to cut the cream and a act as a nice balance to the sweetness of the strawberries.  Both desserts were nice, simple sweet treats.  Nothing amazing, but well prepared.  It was a nice refreshing way to  finish a great meal.
 
The evening was a celebration, so I decided to go all out.  I ended the evening by ordering a coffee liquer drink that was well, almost too strong. The flavor, instead of coffee, was pretty much all brandy, with a dash of cream floating in the coffee at the center of a big snifter.  I couldn't finish it.  It kinda kicked my ass a little. Just too decadent. 

Everything else was amazing.  It was a lovely evening, and I really enjoyed my companions and our conversation.  I am fairly sure that if you are a fan Thai or other similar Asian cuisines, you will love this place.  Check it out for yourself, and Bon Appetit!
 
Tamarine pushed her chair away from the table.  She had eaten too much, almost finishing the entire steak.  She was embarrassed.  Ladies didn't eat large quantities in public.  She darted a glance over at the table across from her to see if he was watching.  His chari was empty.  She sighed.  She'd missed her chance to speak to him.  Tamarine rose to return to her sleeping car.  She found herself a little unsteady on her feet.  A voice from behind surprised her.  "May I buy the lady a brandy?"  
 
Tamarine Restaurant

http://www.tamarinerestaurant.com/
546 University Avenue
Palo Alto, CA 94301-1901
(650) 325-8500

Table size: perfect for many many dishes
Cost: Expensive
Service: Excellent

FRESCA ~ Peruvian Ceviche (just like Grandma used to make)

Except that my Grandmother was Italian, and never made ceviche in her life.  I don't think I even knew what ceviche was until maybe a few years ago.  My oldest daughter is a quarter Peruvian, but I digress.

I ended up in this little gem in the West Portal district of San Francisco through the suggestion of a friend.  Thus, while it's a find I cannot take credit for, it's one I really enjoyed. We were joined there by said friend (who lives close by) and her lovely daughter, in town on break from studies at Harvard.  This friend is aware that the BH and I have become endlessly fascinated by various food establishments, and in her words, this was the "most interesting restaurant" she could think of to bring us to.  How thoughtful of her to make such an excellent choice.

When I think Party of Four, I think in terms of quantities of appetizers!  I mean, that's enough people to order at least three apps, right?  We arrived hungry, and a few minutes early for our 6:30 reservations.  The place was pretty full.  There were only two tables, one right in the doorway, and a nice big six top in the back with comfy banquette seating.  Fortunately, they were kind enough to allow us the slightly bigger table away from the door, which after my near refrigeration at Sala Thai, I was prepared to argue for, but thankfully there was no need.  Victorious in my non-battle, seated and with a menu, I began my meal with a glass of wine.  The BH and our companion shared a pitcher of sangria.  I ordered a Malbec, but the waiter said they had just run out and he offered me a blended Malbec.  I found the compromise quite tasty.

Our companion was interested in sharing a platter of ceviche. They have quite a few selections of ceviche at Fresca.  It would seem to be a specialty of the house.  Some of you might remember I am always on the hunt for ceviche that can compare with the amazing taste treat manufactured at Tamarindo in Oakland.  I wasn't sure this would live up to my expectations, but life is after all an adventure.  I'm always willing to try something new. 

Fresca has maybe eight different ceviches, all prepared on the spot.  Our companion has a soy allergy, so he offered to make them soy free and informed us they can be made to order.  Though they have sampler plates of up to five of the multitude of offerings, we decided three was sufficient to try on this occasion.  We ordered their Trio of Ceviche - which resulted in a platter containing three different ceviches with a nice offering of sides.  The first we tried was the Ceviche 5 Elementos (described as the tradicional peruvian ceviche; halibut, lime juice, rocoto, red onion, sea salt)  The next was the Ceviche Mixto (menu: squid, halibut, prawn, clam, cilantro, red onion, rocoto aji, lime juice, sea salt), and finally we had a Salmon Ceviche  (salmon, passion-fruit, lime, pink peppercorns, cucumber shiso leaf, andean corn, cancha).  I was impressed.  In my mind Ceviche must be prepared carefully or it's either too fishy or too chewy.  I've had ceviche that was only edible, some that is good, but few that are actually great.  This was delicious. The sides were yams and (I believe) some lovely pickled mushrooms.  The blending of the savory salmon with the yam meat was the most stunning.  It was a perfect study in contrasts.  My mouth rang with the gentle savory meat of the fish, the citrus of the ceviche pickling sauce and the soft sweet cream of the yam.  The fish was tart, well-seasoned and extremely moist. An absolute hit.

The next appetizer we tried was a dish called Camarones Chícama, or coconut-crusted jumbo tiger prawns.  They sat atop a black bean salad, with what they described as a lucuma-orange glaze.  No idea what lucama is, but these shrimp were cooked beautifully, and the crunchy-coconut sweet outer shell soaked up the glaze, the meat inside was moist and laced with a hint of the seasonings it had absorbed from its marinade.  Combined with the beans and corn salad beneath, and the tang of the dressing... another impressive offering.  At this point, I'm thinking this place was on a roll.

The last of the appetizers we sampled were called Tequeños, which though dubbed a fried wonton filled with shrimp and crab cream cheese, was more of an eggroll filled with plain soft cream cheese.  The promised flavors of crab and shrimp did not properly materialize, bur rather were a tiny presence, sadly overwhelmed by the cheese.  The crust of the wonton was slightly greasy and was too heavy for the filling.  It might have worked if there was some texture from the crab and shrimp, to cut a bit of that cream chees, but the only thing I tasted was a mouthful of cream cheese.  The dipping sauce, (an lovely light aji amarillo aioli) added some tang, but not enough.  I found this dish not well thought out, and not as flavorful as I’d have liked. At least the side salad that came with it had an lovely chunky tomato salsa in a perfectly seasoned vinaigrette that was quite good.

The BH ordered a Chupe, which is a creamy seafood chowder.  The menu listed its ingredients (other than the seafoods) as andean corn, potatoes, rice, green peas, aji panca, poached egg.  When it arrived the poached egg sat on top ominously (the BH is not normally a fan, though I am) but to my amazement he gave it a try and he loved it.  The soup was full of various fresh fish, mussels, shrimp, everything from the ocean but the kitchen sink. 

I ordered a variation on the seafood stew, I think it was called Picante de Mariscos.  Mine also had a creamy base and much of the same seafood, but it was much spicier.  This dish was the sort of thing I dream about at night.  I've often written how much I love heat in my food and this was hot.  Really spicy, but not so much so that it made the dish difficult to eat, or wiped out the other flavors. It was spice perfection. Every bite was creamy, with the flavors dancing on the palate until the heat made it's appearance, like the finishing kick at the end of a jig.  There was just a tiny bit of sweetness blended into the broth at the base, but the dish was mostly a savory one.  Though it was slightly reminiscent of a curried coconut broth, it was not exactly a curry, nor was it coconut flavored.  It was unique and absolutely delicious. All the seafood was remarkably moist and tender as butter. Not a bit overcooked or tough.  I have never had calamari that tender.  Never.

Both our companion and her lovely daughter had the Pimiento Relleno, a bright red bell pepper stuffed with a rich quinoa vegetable risoto, manchego cheese, and asparagus, and topped off with an aji amarillo cream.  I tasted it and the ricy filling was good. 
We left happy and satiated.  I loved my stew so much, that, even though I was stuffed, I just kept eating until there was a sad, empty bowl before me.  You know that feeling you get when something you really loved eating was completely gone?  Sadness.  But a good kind.

I know it's a bit off the Oakland trail, but if you're hungry and in the City, check it out.  They've got several locations, and I'm guesing the food is as good at all of them.  The menu is pretty much the same.  However, if you've been to one of the others, let me know.  I know if you visit this one, you won't be sorry.  Bon Appetit!

Fresca (West Portal)
24 West Portal
San Francisco, CA
415-759-8087
http://www.frescasf.com/

Noise level: fairly 'busy' might be hard to carry on a conversation for those with difficulty hearing
Table size: adequate
Cost: Reasonable (Soups/Stews 18, apps 12 -ish)

SIDEBAR Oakland ~ Lawyers who Lunch

Another day finds me on yet another search for food adventure.  Always on the hunt for new Oakland eateries (particularly those near my office that offer lunch) I came across today's target, Sidebar.

Sidebar is a relatively new Gastropub currently occupying the site that formerly housed Trio Bistro and Grill, on Grand Avenue, right between Coach Sushi and Zza's Pizzeria.    More interesting to me on this venturing out, was the history of the site.  Before it was Trio, it was an amazing French Bistro called La Brasserie.  Both restaurants had essentially the same ownership.  I never went to Trio, but I spent a lot of time at La Brasserie.  Roger Martin was a delightful and handsome Frenchman who hosted the guests.  In the years I frequented his establishment, I grew exceedingly fond of him.  His wife, Kim, was the chef, and always in the kitchen.  She was however, perhaps one of the best chefs I had ever come across.  This was 1978, a time when more restaurants had fry cooks than chefs, never mind female chefs, and Kim could easily hold her own against many chefs of today.  She was just that good.  I can still taste the  perfection her Coquilles St. Jaques. I have yet to taste its equal.  So hats off to the Martin family.  Wherever you are, know you made an lasting and wonderful impression on those of us who appreciate the ritual fo dining.

This is what is on my mind when we arrive at Sidebar.  The amazing food-karma history of the place smacks me in the face when we enter.  It is of course, different now.  Nice different, with a large open almost circular bar filling the center of the space.  Modern different, with hipster decorations and a youngish vibe.  But nothing off-putting.  This is what happens when you live in one place for a long time.  Things change.  It's the way.  But I'm here and I'm hungry.  So I shake off the Ghosts of Restaurants Past, sit down at a table an give the menu my undivided attention. 

First up, the drinks menu.  They have a nice cocktail menu, most offerings varieties of standards from different decades around the country, recipes from different bartenders.  This menu has a lovely little twist: they have a "Classicist" version of each drink, with what one might call the more 'expected' ingredients, and a "Locavore" version, which is a spin on those ingredients that is all found locally or made in-house.  I ordered the Clover Club which came in two 'flavors' as well.  I requested the Locovore version, intrigued by the idea of House-made Grenadine.  Next time I'll try the raspberry syrup. [Classicist:  Gin, raspberry syrup, lemon juice, and egg white. Old Waldorf Bar Days, Albert Stevens Crockett (1931); Locavore: No. 209 Gin, House-made Grenadine, Meyer lemon juice, and egg white.]   I loved the presentation.  The drink was fluffy, light, and gently sweet, (a bit like a traditional Ramos Fizz), but with a strong kick of gin to keep it from being overly saccharine.  It was splendid.  My Better Half had a Castle Harbor Special, he had the Locovore version as well, which was billed as Charbay Rum, Small Hands Pineapple Gum, and House-made Grenadine, and lime juice. [Classicist: White Rum, lime juice, pineapple juice, and grenadine. The Gentlemen's Companion, Charles H. Baker (1946)]

At Sidebar, the bread served is Acme.  They offer those big sourdough twists, that can be taken apart into separate mini-rolls.  This is my favorite sourdough --- I first had them at Luka's Taproom.  The crust is crunchy perfection without being dry, with that soft aerated center that can be peeled away to reveal even more crust. Gotta say we could have used a  bread plate though, but we were given nothing but the bare tables.  Not a critical flaw, just odd and a bit messy.

I think we all ordered the Potato Leek Soup it was cold out, and we were chilled to the bone.  It was served piping hot, a velvety cream of potato that tasted like French Onion Soup. It's consistency was good, it had body and a hint of texture, but remained creamy and satisfying.  The flavor was excellent, an oniony blend of caramelized leek and potato.

I shared two dishes with our PFC.  We had the Jambalaya a blend of Andouille sausage, shrimp, mussels, clams & basmati rice.  Being a fan of true New Orleans food, particularly authentic Jambalaya, I was at the same time apprehensive and excited to try what might be a find.  Real Jambalaya closer to home!  When it arrived it was in no way a letdown.  A spicy, seafood-laden dish, perfectly seasoned, rice awash in a  flavorful sauce.

PFC & I also shared the Roast Pork Sandwich, which was described as seasoned and sliced pork with gruyere and ham. It came with a side of jicama slaw, a well-pickled vinegary affair that when layered onto the sandwich with the jalapeno relish, made it all somewhat similar to a Banh Mi. The soft warm bread over the tender pork meat, , the salty ham blanketed in a thin layer of cheese.  The final perfect touch the sweet, hot kiss of the jalapeno relish.

The Better Half enjoyed his Monte Cristo Sandwich, a lovely concoction of  Niman Ranch applewood smoked ham, smoked turkey, and gruyere which was essentially a "just like mom used to make" grilled cheese, but with a flair all their own.  It had a nice little seasonal compote on the side and he seemed to love it. 

Since we were so pleased with the food at this point, we opted to order a dessert.  There were several choices that appealed, but I was drawn to the Cornmeal Pound Cake.  I won, and noone was sorry I did.  The cake was absolutely stellar.  Now, I must preface this with my love of sweet corn. I love cornbread.  I love sweet white summer corn. Really really love it.  So, that said, this dish was amazing.  It had the texture of a medium rough cornbread, moist and dense like a pound cake on the inside and a touch crunchy on the outer, all imbued with the taste of butter.  Really an inspired take on an old standard.  Add mascarpone whipped cream and voila!

We will most definitely return, and soon.  If you find yourself in the neighborhood, you should check it out, and as always Bon appetit!

Sidebar
542 Grand Avenue

Oakland, CA

(510) 452-9500

http://www.sidebar-oakland.com/

Dining time: easily back in an hour

Table size: adequate, maybe just a tad small

Noise level: was okay for us, but with all that wood and windows, it might possibly be too loud for some

Cost: Moderate

PLUMED HORSE (Saratoga) - Happy Birthday to Me

January 3 was, ---well, is,--- my birthday.   As a kid growing up, it was always a throwaway day.  A day when everyone was either too broke or too tired to do much celebrating.  It was often the first day back to school, the end of winter break.  I felt cursed.  I hated my birthday.  When I married my current husband he promised to make a fuss for my birthday, to resurrect the date from the ashes of bad memories to turn it into a day I would come to look forward to with anticipation.  It was a promise he kept.  He proposed on my birthday.  It was sweet.   He's been making magic for me ever since.  This year, he asked me what I'd like to do and I said eat out, of course!  It's my new favorite thing to do.

I've been thinking a lot lately about why that is.  Mulling over the ritual that is dining.  Not eating for nourishment, but all the delightful sensations and experiences that can come with dining exceptionally well.  What it means. Why we are willing to pay so much for the pleasure.  What constitutes the perfect meal.  Food, flavor, companionship, ambience --- I think it must be all these things.

The Plumed Horse, in Saratoga, has been fairly recently refurbished.  From the street, it remains an unassuming exterior that fits well with the other buildings along Big Basin Way, the main drag of the sleepy little burgh that is Saratoga.  Once inside it tells an altogether different story.  It is sleek and welcoming, like a really jazzy new sports car.  In fact, this restaurant is a Mazeratti.  We stepped through the door and were immediately struck by the decor.  Upon being ushered into the lounge area, we made ourselves comfy on the lavishly appointed couches and enjoyed the flickering flames in the fireplace, a magnificent vista of glass and flame that completely fills the wall at the end of the room.  I can appreciate good decor just as much as a good meal, and the designer of this place really hit a home run.  The wall of wines beautifully displayed in plexiglass, rising to the ceiling with the promise of abundance.  The perfecly laid out tables, beneath the fragile and jellyfish-like sculptures that are the light fixtures dotting the ceiling.  All in an earthy color pallette of tan and silver.  It seemed like a modern dining palace under the sea, and all of it said "Happy Birthday."

We began with cocktails in the lounge.  I had a Green Eyed Monster which was a refreshing concoction of gin, chartreuse and elderberry.  It was herbal not sweet, and a lovely way to kick off my birthday party.  My Better Half ordered a Raspberry Beret, and our daughter joined him.   I had a sip, it was sweet.  Yummy.  I exhaled a sigh of joy mixed with anticipation for the balance of the evening.  Off to a great start with a drink from a first-rate mixologist.  Mixology is an art a girl could really get used to enjoying.

We took a look at the menu.  The tasting menu was probably not going to work, since we brought our daughter, and she is allergic to most fish.  With the assistance of the waiter, who was exceedingly patient, we were able select a tasting menu of our own.  We decided to share most everything, but we each ordered an appetizer of our own.  While we were waiting, a lovely little flurry of waiters brought us the most amazing warm, fresh bread.  It was basically a sweet roll, and endearing in its simplicity.  Hot, puffy, light and delicious, they were so good I ate four of them.  They were also so light it didn't do a thing to damage my ravenous appetite.  I was ready for more. 

Soon another flurry of attendants produced what they described as a Fried Mozarella on a Stick.   I love when the waitstaff becomes part of the experience, they swirl in with goodies and disappear inobtrustively.  Like food butterflies.  This treat was itself a whimsical delicacy, a bit like a toasted marshmallow --- just as puffy in its consistency --- very airy on the tongue.  This buoyant cheese treat was successful in amusing my bouche to no end.  Another Happy Birthday to me!

My BH had a Lobster Squash Bisque.  It was served by the waiter who carefully poured each soup from a dual pitcher, so that it would remain separated in the bowl.  Each half unique to itself, but able to be tasted together.  The clever little trick was entertaining and delicious.  Another little nod to the ritual.  Another little step in the show. 

The next scene in the performance was a lovely little tray of taste treats.  Quail eggs, Ahi tuna concoction and a third delight I forgot to write down.  It was after all my birthday, and we were well into a bottle of champagne by this point.   Again magnificently presented by the food butterflies.  Shortly after that the food butterflies brought us our Ravioli with Foie Gras and an Abalone dish that was perhaps the best abalone I have ever eaten (and I spent every summer at the Sacramento River Delta eating fried abalone sandwiches that were perfection).  Its meat was the consistency of pastry crust and just as buttery.

The main courses arrived next.  I received a lovely Lamb Loin with Ricotta gnocchi, porcini mushrooms, piperade.  It arrived drizzled in it's own juice and cooked to perfection.  My BH got the Diver's Sea Scallops, accompanied by an onion flan, and adorned with tiny buttons of endive.  The grad student had been offered a single filet mignon prepared similarly to their rib-eye, which they offered to accommodate her food allergy to fish.  The filet came with truffled potato croquettes and Maitake mushrooms.  They were all delicious.   We passed  bites back and forth in a frenzy of food ecstasy that culminated in most of us crying "Uncle," unable to completely finish our fairly large portions.  We had to leave room for desssert.  Good times!
Next up were my, yes, Birthday desserts.  We ordered two.  The I'm Your Huckleberry, which was a ginger-almond financier (a lovely cake/cookie affair), in a huckleberry & creme fraiche ice cream.   The other

was the Sky Rockets in Flight... ... Afternoon Delight, which is a dessert they describe as a 20 hour apple crepe, with a honey- brandy semifreddo.  Both were spectacular.  I'm nothing if not a freak for a sweet treat after a gazillion-course meal.

At this point we had finished our champagne and were on to coffees with our desserts.  I had my usual cappuchino, and the BH had his usual latte.  Our daugher is on a tea kick, so she had a green tea.  It arrived in this lovely glass teapot.  Really pretty tea it was.  Another piece of the ritual.  I love to eat places where even the tea is pretty.  The whole process, start to finish is what makes for a memorable dining experience.  The ritual, the food butterflies, the pretty, the tasty.  All of it.

Eating is a communal act.  A ritual that can be shared with those we love. In it's repetition there is familiarity, a chance to make memories, a sense of the known and the comforting.  Though the act is necessary for our survival, it doesn't have to be mundane or unremarkable.  It should be among our greatest pleasures, this daily ritual of consuming food and sharing time together.

So this is what I've been thinking about, on this anniversary of my birth.  My love of rituals.  Anniversarys, birthdays, weddings, all the traditions that form the moments of our lives.  Maybe that is why dining well is so enjoyable for me.  It provides an opportunity to make any day festive, and can turn a somber mid-winter birthday into a sparkling and joyous occasion.  As we each tick off the milestones in our lives, it's somehow reassuring to know those moments were spent brimming with pleasurable tastes, stimulating conversation and the company of those we love.  To me that is the hallmark of a life well-lived.

I have to say I had a magnificent birthday. Hope to get back to the Plumed Horse again sometime soon. Check it out for yourself, and Bon Appetit!


Plumed Horse
14555 Big Basin Way
Saratoga, CA 95070-6013
(408) 867-4711
http://www.plumedhorse.com/ 

Chef Peter Armellino
Cost: if you need to ask, don't go
Michelin Rated: One Star!