NEX OAKLAND - Lookin’ for Food and Feelin’ Hungry...



Pressed Watermelon Salad - pretty AND delicious!

 Ok, so maybe my song puns aren’t the best, but my experience at Nex in Oakland was something to sing about. It so happened that last April the BH and I had tickets to Paul Simon at the recently refurbished Fox Theater in Oakland. We made reservations at Nex, the sister restaurant to Mua. Both restaurants are owned and operated by the former owner of Soizic formerly on Broadway in Oakland. Soizic was one of our favorites right up until it closed some time after August of last year. Soizic was one of the first fine dining establishments in Oakland, featuring a hybrid of French-California “other” cuisine done very successfully, long before Oakland’s dining renaissance was a twinkle in anyone’s eye.


When we arrived, we were seated promptly and began to peruse the cocktail menu. One has to have a cocktail before a show, right? After all, ya need to get in the mood for music. Warm up the senses and all. Lucky for us, there were several scrumptious drinks offered, and while we pondered them, we noticed that Paul Simon was on the ambient sound system. Clearly this is an establishment that knows from whence it’s audience has come. The music continued to highlight Simon and artists of his genre, and the spot on music choices really added to our overall dining experience. A little “show before the show,” if you will. Kudos.

Pate de Campagne (Country Pate)


I selected my drink, which was a lovely concoction titled the Rex Gimlet. It was a light margarita-inspired mixture of Don Julio, cucumber and a hint of cilantro, herbaceous and refreshing. The BH had a pineapple infused drink, blended with just enough sweet to keep him happy. He’s a guy who loves himself a pomatini from time to time, after all. Both drinks had a well-blended mix to them. The world, post Scott Beattie, is a beautiful place.

We began with appetizers. Time to kill and bears in our bellies. Our Paté de Campagne (pickled red onion, radish, whole grain mustard, toast) - was the sliced meat version of compacted pate. The texture was dense and the flavor delicious, it was simple country fare with heart and a lovely combination of seasonings. Excellent as an appetite enhancer.



Melt in your Mouth GNOCCHI

 The Pressed Watermelon (feta, mint, olive oil) - may have been one of my absolute favorite versions of this dish. New to me, the flavors produced when the oh so sweet summer watermelon is blended with aromatic herbs and a dash of balsamic. Such a magnificent pop of palate-exciting flavor. The meat of this particular varietal was an amber gold color, its texture dense against the tongue before a burst of flavor as the sugars released into the light dressing it had been drizzled with. I cannot describe it aptly, as you kinda have to experience the taste for yourself to understand. Yeah, I know, you can imagine the taste of watermelon, but the way it blends with a tiny burst of acid and oil is spectacular when it’s done right. Mingle that sweet hit with tangy cheese and minty summer cilantro, yeah, now you’re talking. Watermelon has a way of releasing itself into the mouth, that when blended with the other flavors, cheese, tangy balsamic, fatty oil, well it’s just outstanding.

Scallops over Asparagus

After we’d primped and prodded our palates with appetizers, the Gnocchi (mascarpone cheese, Italian porcini cream) arrived. There was a nice hint of tomato in this dish that was reminiscent of one of the best gnocchi dishes I’ve ever enjoyed. Milano on Grand Avenue (before it changed ownership and lost its footing) had a spectacular gnocchi dish I’d insist on partaking of monthly. This really reminded of everything that was good about that gnocchi— the light fresh tomato sauce, the exact blending of spices in that tomato sauce, and the cheese. The gnocchi was soft but resistant enough not to just become mush. Just the way grandma would have made hers.

We shared another plate, this one was a Seared Rock Cod “Scallop” (grilled asparagus, English peas, lemon caper beurre blanc) . It was presented as this lovely flower of fish. It was lightly grilled as scallops should be, one side golden and the meat still moist, toothsome and flaky. The seasoning was also spot on. Really fantastically flavored.

The duck blew my mind. They menu titled it Grimaud Farms Duck Confit (white bean, carrot, frisée) and it may be one of the smoothest duck dishes I’ve had to date. I have to say, I’m on a duck-loving roll these days. It just got better and better, the buttery beans beneath the fatty meat melting against my tongue as soon as the fork had delivered them. Fab-u-licious.



Duck Confit, with spring carrots
with perfectly soft white beans...

 Of course, after a perfect meal, one must enjoy a hint of sweet to finish off the palate. The day had been lovely, so something that hinted at the summer around the corner, with its promise of stone fruit, fresh corn and lush garden delights in abundance... that mindset produced a longing for the Poached pear with Cranberry Torte & Vanilla Ice Cream. Can’t say it was a let down, even if pear isn't a stone fruit! We were in the mood for natural sugar and the high that goes with a great fruit blended into a pastry. This was a lovely little example of that delight. Made from cornmeal it had a weightiness to it that spoke of the farmhouse, conjuring up a dense summer pie chilling on the windowsill made by the hands of a loving Auntie Em.  No pie ever tasted better. ... just heavenly. The vanilla ice cream they paired with the pastry dessert was spiced, almost gingery. The chilled vanilla melting into the hot pear and cranberry, nothing could have been better than that.

After coffee we headed to the show. It was a perfect continuation of the evening. So Beautiful!
So What? you say? I say head on over to Nex and check it out for yourself! As always...Bon Appetit!



Poached Pear & Cranberry Torte

 Nex Restaurant
2442 Webster St
(between 24th St & 25th St)
Oakland, CA 94612
(510) 238-8224
http://www.nexoakland.com/

Table size: adequate
Price: moderately expensive
Sound levels: could get noisy, we enjoyed the ambient sound and had no problem conversing
Service: Excellent!

SAN PEDRO SQUARE - San Jose Speedbump

Not every trip to a restaurant is equally memorable, but then not every trip out is experienced equally. Tonight we were in a hurry. We had a show to get to, and although we had left plenty of time for a fairly leisurely meal, the gods were having none of it.

We arrived at the San Pedro Square Bistro & Wine Bar early enough, we hoped, to catch a real cocktail nearby. We like a good margarita or two before a show. But there was nothing in sight, although ironically there was a closed Mexican Restaurant right next door. Maybe that should have been a sign.

We sat down and the waitress took our appetizer order. Since we were unable to locate a cocktail, I went with a Malbec they were serving by the glass and it was to my liking. We ordered the Garlic Shrimp, French Fries and the Chicken Wings. The shrimp was tender and the sauce a golden garlicky-goodness. The dish itself was appetizingly plated. The Chicken Wings (which were technically drummettes) were piping hot and had a nice barbeque flavor. Best of all, they were part of the evening happy hour appetizer menu, and were only $4.

Overall, I think the best offering was their fries. Served in one of those lovely paper cones to absorb some of the grease, the fries arrived steaming hot right out of the frier, and were accompanied with three really aromatic and complimentary dipping sauces. The first aioli was a lovely sun-dried tomato, another was a spicy wasabi and the last was aioli blended with a tapenade of olives. All three dips were clearly distinct from one another and offered a really and tasty variety of flavors against the steamy potato wedges. The fries made a really good impression on me and were a big hit at our table.

But then there was the wait. And the wait. It must have been a full thirty minutes from the time we had finished our appetizers until we could again get the attention of the waitress, and then she was forced to ask for a few minutes to finish up with other patrons before she would be back to take our order. I felt badly for her. She was polite (but harried) and it was clear that they were slammed at the restaurant and ill-prepared for the sudden rush of business. We were on our way to Cirque du Soleil and there was also a tennis match of some sort across the way. But none of that is the patron’s fault, and when a restaurant can’t take care of you, it’s off-putting. I think maybe it’s because you are so completely helpless. You can’t get your own water, or your own drinks, and obviously you can’t just head to the kitchen to put in your own order. Couple that with the fact that we had a deadline hanging over our heads in the form of an eight-o’clock curtain, and well, it was pretty stressful. Dining just isn’t as good when one is all stressed out.

The waitress made it back in another five or six minutes. We placed our orders and hoped we had enough time. We had a little leeway since we hadn’t managed a bar stop on the way to the restaurant. One of us decided on the Chicken Vostadana. Though the restaurant has named it differently, I believe the dish was in reality Chicken Saltimbocca. The name change might have been because the dish is more traditionally done with veal. It might have been a nod to it being a variation by the chef or a family member. But the ingredients are chicken layered with prosciutto and cheese and a touch of sage with butter. That’s a Saltimbocca if ever there was one.

I had a Rack of Lamb with Gnocchi. I ordered rare. I shouldn’t have. My BH let me know he almost warned me off. I forget that rare in beef and rare in lamb are not the same. I’m so used to getting overdone lamb and it really needs to be pink to be good, but if it’s completely raw, which this was, it’s almost inedible. Although they technically executed the dish the way I asked them to, a good server would have let me know that rare is a raw in their establishment and at least made sure that was my intent. Lamb just can't be eaten raw.  It was the costliest dish on the menu, you’d think they’d want to get it right. Since the waitress was unavailable most of the evening I couldn't get her attention in order to request she take it back to the kitchen for a few moments more of cooking.  At least the gnocchi were good.

I have to note that when our food came it was not piping hot. It was more like room temperature, and had obviously been sitting for awhile before being served. That again underscored to me that the restaurant was not adequately prepared for the crowd they had.

BH had the Game Hen and it was tasty and well-cooked. The sides were nice and he enjoyed them. The last of us had the Fettucine Alfredo and he was likewise happy with his meal, but the lack of service hovered over the experience like the presence of some shadowy dementor.

We soldiered on, finishing the meal by sharing a creme brulee and a triple-chocolate cake. Both were excellent and we managed to get out of there in time to make it to the “Grand Chapiteau” before the show.

The bottom line is the prices are great for what you get. Most everything is pretty well executed, and the flavors are above-average. I can’t get myself to recall the evening as a complete success though. My companions were delightful and the meal was okay (although my own dinner was inedible) but they struggled to serve people properly. As an example, I asked them to bag my lamb. While I couldn’t eat it because it was raw, I could reheat it and it would be perfection. But they never brought it back. Since it was such a hassle to get her attention, I didn’t bother to chase down my leftovers. Those little oversights are the sort of thing one can forgive in a crunch when they happen once, but when they happen repeatedly throughout an evening that’s all you take away.

I must reiterate that the food was good enough, and priced well. Four of us got out for about $150 which seems like a deal these days. The service inconsistencies may have been an aberration. The waitress was polite. She was young and I think she tried her best. But the food was late and no longer hot, she forgot my meal, they left us sitting forever. Should she have been better trained? Maybe. I came away with more questions than answers, and I’m not sure I’d want to go back myself. That said, if you’re on a budget, maybe you should check it out for yourself. Good deals to be had. Bon Appetit!

San Pedro Square Bistro & Wine Bar
20 N Almaden Ave
San Jose, CA 95113
(408) 298-9463

www.spsbwb.com

Table size: adequate
Noise Level: barely THREE BELLS = Occasionally talking normally gets difficult
Dining Time: Barely made it out for the show

SOIZIC BISTRO - Dear Diary... YUM!

Date: February 3, 2010 - Journal Entry:

I came to this “foodie” party a little late, being cajoled and nagged into it by a good friend. Looking back, it’s ironic to think she needed to use so much persuasion, since I was practically raised in the kitchen and have always understood the importance of food in the bonding of family, heart and home. Feeding people to bring them joy was a tradition instilled in me by parents, aunt and uncles, and grandparents alike. As soon as I could eat, I began to be schooled in the “joy of feeding.”

Though late to the game, this new hobby of sharing the love proffered by those in the food biz has rapidly become one of the great delights of my life. Today I am at Soizic, so it seems only fair that I give a shout out to the woman who got me started along this path. Soizic was one of her favorite places when she still lived here in the Bay Area. Erin would make us come so she could savor their beautiful giant ravioli. She said they were the best anywhere she’d been. Having sampled them often, I must agree. Though she was from Indiana, she lived in San Francisco at the time, and she really, really knew her food.

I remember she used to plan every meal in advance before traveling and I would torture her about her compulsiveness. “How much do you want to be on a rigid schedule?”, I would ask. She patiently assured me that planning allowed her to enjoy the best meals on her trips, as it allowed her to secure reservations at all the best restaurants. She would return from her trips with stories of good times and fantastic foods, so as I began to travel more, I began also to follow her strategy. Needless to say I got recommendations from her for good places at which to dine as well. These days I wouldn’t venture anywhere without advance reservations. When I arrive at a restaurant and my husband and I are ushered to a table past the folks who are sitting at the bar for hours having ‘just dropped in spontaneously’ I have to say, it is so nice to be the people with reservations. Thanks, E!

So back to my meal. We began, as we often do, by partaking in a house specialty cocktail. These days if they offer a specialty beverager, I feel it’s my duty to try one and report in. Today I ordered a Chez Nous, which was a lovely brew of Courvoisier Brandy and Canton ginger liquor. The alcohol was cut with some fresh mango juice and lime which combined beautifully. It was tasty!

My BH enjoyed their signature Cosmo, which was a smooth blend of Hangar One Vodka and cranberry juice, layered with a hint of Mandarine Blossom and St. Germain. Top that all off with a splash of fresh lime and voila! The addition of the elderflower, which is a tiny bit herbal, made the drink much less saccharine and cloying than I am used to in a Cosmo. I thought it was much better balanced that way. The last of our company enjoyed the Basil Gimlet, which was a simple concoction of Tanqueray Ten and Lime, with a bit of Basil muddled in for good measure. The drink was refreshing herbal and very STRONG!!

We shared an order of their Baked Goat Cheese as an appi, and the cheese arrived warm and squishy having been rolled in bread crumbs and baked. It was accompanied with butter lettuce, and a few warm slices of toasted levain bread. The result was a deliciously creamy & slightly sweet spread that covered the bread well with a nice tangy balance of cheese and herbs.

Several of us also indulged in the Butternut Squash Soup, which was really that last breath of fall weather in a bowl. The silky pumpkin-esque flavor of the squash was spiced to perfection — the subdued subtlety of its flavors were rounded out with a light squiggle of creme fraiche and a handful of croutons laid gently over the top.

The BH ordered their Mussel Soup. He fell in love with the saffron cream broth and I was close behind him. It had this lovely cream and butter taste, with just a hint of the fennel coming through to tease the palate. The soup itself was full-bodied, a steaming bowl of hot, lovely mussels, all blanketed with golden broth and snuggled among Yukon potatoes that still had a bite to them. I like my potatoes to give me just a touch of resistance to the teeth, almost like biting into a grape. If their mushy, it’s no good. The addition of the spinach gave the dish a nice earthy finish. This was a rock-star version of a traditional white clam chowder. Inventive and pretty, that broth was heavenly perfection.

I ordered the Loch Duart Salmon. My girlishly pink slice of fish had a lovely crisp on its top, but remained moist and juicy inside. It arrived blanketed in delicious creamy goodness, and plated atop some lovely winter greens — capers, roasted red pepper, green beans, brussell sprouts, zucchini, cauliflower — all beside a creamy hot polenta amounted to an elaborate set of contrasting flavors all working my palate in harmony. There is nothing quite as satisfying as the taste of really well prepared fish. For me, it is always a delightful surprise. The house-made aioli added the perfect acid finish to compliment the flavorful, slightly fatty meat of the fish.

The BH ordered the Coq Au Vin, which I believe was what I ordered at my last visit. The only other place it might be better is Claude’s Bistro in San Francisco (or maybe I just remember their Coq au Van more favorably because they have such good-looking waiters and I’m always a tiny bit drunk when I’m there). But if there is a difference it is a subtle one. This dish should be chicken that has stewed for a good deal in red wine, braised until the meat is falling off the bone, seeped with the flavor of the stewed vegetables that accompany it. In this case pearl onions, crimson mushrooms, chunks of bacon and arugula. Today was polenta-fest at Soizic. As you can see, all the dishes were served beside the creamy rough-corn pudding that is a staple in Italy and has finally made its’ way to American tables.  This was a light airy version of the dish and quite tasty.

The Grad Student indulged in a beautiful Braised Short Rib which she said was done exactly to her liking. Our PFC tried the Smoked Penne Pasta with Mushroom, sauteed onion, sun-dried tomato and broccoli. The dish was being served with either mushrooms or chicken, but he requested both and they obliged. It was good, topped off with a lovely fresh-grated parmesan cheese.  Two solidly good, if not fanciful or awe-inspiring, dishes.

We did not linger for dessert, we were stuffed. Another extremely successful meal. Soizic is not the newest of Oakland’s treasures, but it is certainly a reliable visit. Check it out for yourself, and Bon Appetit!

 

Soizic Bistro

300 Broadway  (at 3rd St)

Oakland, CA 94607

(510) 251-8100

http://www.soizicbistro.com/

Table size: adequate

Noise Levels:  ONE BELL = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels)

Service:  attentive and rapid

Dining Time: in and out in an hour when necessary

BAY WOLF - Everything old is new again

It was another Friday, maybe a week or so ago.  The Grad Student wanted to meet her father and I for lunch, so we agreed to take her out. Again.  Such a sacrifice, I know.  She had requested that we go to Bay Wolf, having recently come across its menu on line and become intrigued. Bay Wolf struck me as an odd choice for my young foodie.  It's been around forever, and I expected it to be a bit, well 'dusty.' Yet her father and I were willing to indulge her. 

I hadn't been to Bay Wolf myself since 1977 or so.  Back then, it was the place to go for special occasions.  Either there or Chez Panisse in Berkeley; there were few other choices on this side of the Bay Bridge.  Bay Wolf was a high end  destination --- too high end a place to consider eating out at very often, given my meagre secretary's wages.  But that day was a special occasion, it was a pre-bridal luncheon from another lifetime.  I think I had their Salad Nicoise.  It was good, but not necessarily magic.  Not anything particularly memorable. 

So we arrived a bit early for our reservation and they had our table ready.  It was on what once had been the deck, but is now an interior enclosure that has expanded the eating area of the restaurant.  It was securely enclosed and had heating lamps to keep it toasty in winter (which it still was).  It appears as though in summertime this area can be easily reopened into a deck again, making it a nice convertible space for year around dining.  Smart.

As we perused the cocktail list, we realized they don't have a full bar here.  But they do have specialty cocktails of liquer and various wines.  I chose a Pear mojito and it was delicious --- a complete success.  Often with wine-only substitute cocktails I am left with a feeling that my drink is missing a flavor component.  Wine just doesn't enhance a cocktail in the way that hard liquor can.  It's not as varied in taste, at least not in that way.  In this case, their bartender is a magician, because the flavors in this drink were outstanding.  I was first struck by the strong but not overpowering hints of mint and lemon ---  these flavors gave way to a lovely anise kick --- and it all finished off with a lovely, soft kiss of pear.  What a nice surprise that cocktail was.

I chose to order a Salad of Anise-Scented Beets, even though it was wintry cold.  I love beets so much it is often hard for me to resist them when they're offered.  The dish arrived with a lovely simple vinaigrette caressing the beets, avocado and tangerine, all of which were fresh, ripe and magnificent.  There was a bit of fennel in the mix, which blended nicely with the acidic fruit to create a really memorable salad.  This time my salad was a memorable home run.

We also shared as an appetizer at the table a Duck Liver “flan” which was a lovely pate-style dish, accompanied by some toasts of grilled bread, little cornichons (baby dill pickles), and some really nice olives.  The taste of the duck liver went blissfully with the pickles and the olives, tasty stuff!

While I nibbled away on my salad, our PFC had the Double Celery Soup which he said was to his liking.  It was a lovely consistency and the tapenade toasts

Our PFC ordered for his main the Petit Cassoulet which was a lovely blend of duck confit, sausage and smoked pork in a wonderful country-style stew, laced with white beans and a fablously complex herbed sauce.  C'est Magnifique!

The BH ordered their Grilled Steelhead Salmon, which was a fabulous pink steak of salmon surrounded by roasted broccoli, fried new potatoes and accompanied with a fresh salsa verde.  The meat of the salmon was buttery-soft, moist and flaky, with that lovely briny quality of fresh seafood.  The broccoli was as well,  perfectly cooked with just enough of its crispness left intact.  Too often when I think about ordering salmon, I tell myself that fish is a healthy option and therefore somehow boring.  I can end up talking myself out of it, but I gotta say, when it's done like this, it is anything but.  The perfectly crispy exterior over all that moist, flavorful fish... wow.  I am always struck by how tasty fish really is when it's cooked well, perhaps because for a very long time most of the fish I ate wasn't.

The grad student ordered the Potato Gnocchi, which arrived awash in butternut squash, chard, mushrooms and sage.  The dish was bouncy with flavors, the puffs themselves the perfect consistency, all of it well-coated with sauce.  The dish was not at all mushy and the earthy finish from the sage chips flecked over all was just the right note.

Since we had saved room we ordered three desserts to share.  The first was a Meyer Lemon Pot de Creme a creamy soft affair blending lemon and vanilla in a well-executed marriage of citrus and sugars.  Excellent.  The next was one that had intrigued us.  It was an Ice Cream Sandwich of Persimmon Ice Cream and Oatmeal cookies.  The warm cookies were layered over and under this amazingly soft, gelato like house-made ice cream, and the dense texture of the persimmon really came through.  Persimmon is a really rich fruit, with a meat similar to that of a mango, so it had the potential to be a bit overwhelming.  Yet the addition of the oatmeal to the mix kept that from happening.  The powdery crunch of the oatmeal, with its soft, nutty, texture really brought the flavors all together, and the addition of a caramel sauce at the bottom of the dish caught everything together in harmony. 

We finished off our dessert trio with a Chocolate Souffle Cake sitting atop a plate lightly slathered in creme anglaise.  Each bite of cake was soaked it the bottom with the light vanilla flavored creme, so that the dark, bitter taste of the chocolate just popped.   Well done.
 
Oddly enough, I was both surprised and thrilled to find out that Bay Wolf hasn't missed a step in the past twenty plus years.  But it would appear that they have.  Check it out for yourself, and Bon Appetit!
 
Bay Wolf Restaurant
3853 Piedmont Ave
Oakland, CA 94611-5378
(510) 655-6004
http://www.baywolf.com/

Table size: adequate
Noise Level:  TWO BELLS = Can talk easily
Dining Time: easily out in an hour if skip dessert
Service: excellent, just attentive enough

CAFE CLAUDE - Mais Oui ...please have another drink?

Black Friday. Shopping day from hell. But such great sales, right? So how does one get the hubby to come with? Ahhh-hah. Offer him lunch at Cafe Claude. So my grad student and I did, as part of our evil plan to get him (and thus, his wallet) into the City with us.

Seriously, the Grad Student and I both love Cafe Claude so we thought it would be a fun family outing. I must admit that the Better Half loves it there too, so it was the perfect place to top off our day-after-Turkey festivities. Food was definitely going to be the highlight of the day, particularly given the fairly obnoxious crowds slugging about the city streets making walking around enjoyably near to impossible. (But the sales!) People are sooo rude these days. We made reservations for 1pm ish and arrived at the restaurant right on time, and starving.

The restaurant itself seems worth a note here. It is a charming, intimate, very authentic European-style little bistro in an alley in San Francisco that transports its clientele, in spirit at least, right to the heart of Paris. The bar is rich wood, the interior long and dark and intimate. It's tiny, but with such an abundance of genuine charm that one doesn't feel packed in like a sardine. I love the place.

Started with a cheeseboard featuring (from what I can remember) a Chevre goat, a soft brie and a lovely French cow's milk. They change out their cheeses constantly and I didn't write much of the cheese course down what with the cocktail in one hand. I remember only that they were delicious and we enjoyed them with cocktails. There's a story about the cocktails, but more about that later. I ordered the Mousse D'Amerique, a lilting combination of rum, lime juice, pineapple and sugar cane. Foamy on top. Yum! The BH had the French 75, a fruity mix of gin and sparkling wine, Double Yum! Our grad student had one as well.

It was about this time that we noticed the bartender was tall, dark and French. As an aside, I should mention that the wait staff at Cafe Claude is often French and almost always pretty. Male & female alike. Young, attractive people abound here. I think I notice because I used to sit on a casting panel for theatrical productions and I can't help but evaluate people a little bit for their stage-worthiness. I think my 24-year-old daughter notices because she is 24 and single. So anyway, the Grad Student and I both commented to one another that our bartender could give Gilles Marini a run for his money, and there might be flirting. Fun Times!

Back at the meal, the BH and Grad Student both love a good French Onion Soup and Cafe Claude's is one of the best. At least as good as Absinthe over in Hayes Valley. A lovely hot mess of golden-kissed cheese over an oniony puddle of perfect broth. Nothing heartier to warm the bones from an outdoor chill.

While I continued to consume my own drink with more cheese, I let the soup divert the attention of both my dining companions. The family was enjoying our environment and the food at Claude quite a bit, so we lingered over these prefatory courses.

When our mains arrived, we ordered a second round of cocktails. My lunch was a lovely special, described as a Veal Stew but which arrived in the form of a rich and creamy (ivory colored,
almost stroganoff-looking) dish. I had anticipated something more traditional --- perhaps a thick brown sauce with a wine reduction --- but this was a nice twist. It had mushrooms and garlic and veal, all tumbled together beneath this aromatic but delicate blanket of cream, au jus and herbs.

My better half and our daughter had their steak and fries. The steak arrived perfectly cooked, rare, as requested. The fries, are well, Cafe Claude's. They are among the best fries ever, anywhere. I have a few places I go just for the fries and this is one of them. The others are Cesar's on Piedmont Avenue (Cesar's may still be absolute number one, but it's close) and Luka's on Grand Avenue. When they are done to perfection, fries can be a real treat. Here they are light, thin and well-seasoned. Hints of garlic. Salted well. Ahhhh. yes!

By now the grad student and I are getting a little liquored up. We've noticed that the very smokin' bartender has taken to deliver her drinks (oh, to be young again) and it's amusing. So she has another. He brings it, but refuses a tip. Politely. Hmm.

We decide that the meal won't be complete without dessert. GS thinks the Tarte Tatin sounds appetizing, so we go for it. What's not to love about upside down apple tart with caramel sauce and whipped cream? I know, right? As we gently drape our bites of hot gooey caramel and apple with fluffy tongues of whipped cream we continue to ogle the hot bartender. My daughter decides she needs him to come back, so she orders, yes, another drink. By the time we leave there is chatting, marginal flirting. He tells her it is his birthday. She says "Happy Birthday" instead of what she is thinking, which is, bien sur, way more Sex & the City. Quel dommage, it was time for us to leave.

It was a lovely afternoon, and as we step out into the brisk post-Thanksgiving crowds once again, we are full, slightly drunk and alive. It's a beautiful world.

I cannot recommend Cafe Claude enough for this sort of an afternoon, or any sort at all. Check it out, and Bon Appetit!

Cafe Claude

7 Claude Lane

San Francisco, CA 94108

415-392-3505

http://www.cafeclaude.com/

Dining Time: leisurely

Table size: small, cramped, European-style

Noise level: It's noisy but intimate enough that I don't have trouble hearing.

Price: moderately expensive

B - A Second Letter Can "Be" First Rate!

Last week the BH and I found ourselves on our usual "lunch block" - an intersection that offers a choice of many of our favorite haunts, where we can simply let the mood strike us as we walk and just pick one. Today we picked B. B was one of the earliest additions to this revitalized part of Old Oakland and in its original form it proffered soups, salads, sandwiches and roast chicken. The menu was reliable but not terribly inspiring.





We hadn't been in maybe ten months, and I have to say that on this return visit I was delightfully surprised to see the revamped menu. There were all sorts of new additions --- cheese plates, mixology, and wonders, oh my!


Drinks. Two, please. My husband's drink, the Paloma, of course, was a refreshing combination of Tequila and fresh grapefruit juice. The cocktail was well-blended and he loved it. Mine was called a "Love On" and it was this lovely combo of Skye vodka, pineapple juice and a fluffy cloud of Raspberry puree floating on top, with a lovely cherry-red heart staring up at you. It was sweet, almost a little too much, but overall I enjoyed it. And it was so so pretty!
We began with a Cheese Plate, choosing the Marin Triple Cream and the Manchego. We also had one of the charcuterie selections, a Sopressata from Fra Mani of Berkeley. I thought the portions were sufficiently generous, not as big as Franklin Square used to provide, but not the table scraps served up at some places. We both enjoyed the selections, finding them all mouth-watering good.

For lunch I ordered the Pear Salad with Chicken. As you can see from the picture, the slices of chicken were generous, basically a whole chicken breast sliced over fresh greens. The greens , pear and walnut of the salad itself was lightly dressed with a really tasty champagne vinaigrette and overall the dish was perfection. Just what I was looking for. The chicken meat was moist, but not underdone, and had a lovely savory taste to it that may have been from their wood ovens.

My better half had the Mussels with House Made Sausage, White Wine Sauce and Crostini. They looked delicious and he seemed to enjoy them. I tasted a bit of the sauce on some bread and it was balanced and seasoned well. Success!






We needed to get back to work, so we passed on dessert. Overall, we were thrilled to discover what felt like an entirely new restaurant. Attention to detail, variety of offerings, all of it up to date and well-executed.




Check it out and Bon Appetit!

B Restaurant
499 9th Street
Oakland, CA 94607
510-251-8770
http://www.boakland.com/

Table size: adequate
Dining time: Lunch hour do-able
Noise level: moderate to a bit loud, but didn't bother us. Sound levels never got "echoey" or unnerving.
Cost: moderately pricy

MADISON & FIFTH - fine Italian in Palo Alto

So we had planned to revisit a place we had really enjoyed the first time we went, just over a year ago. Madison & Fifth in Palo Alto. It took us two tries. The first time we went, we had no sooner ordered our drinks, than the firetrucks pulled up in front. After twenty minutes of climbing around the roof, they (the-brave-men-of-the-putting-out-of-the-fires) decided that maybe they should close the place down after all, just in case.

We never got our prosciutto & melon. Sad. We were so hungry (and we loved the food here so much on our previous visit) that we were actually weighing how crispy we'd let ourselves get before giving up the ghost. The PAFD decided for us. Curses!

But we were not to be deterred, so we made arrangements to reconvene our little party (with two additions) about a week later, giving Mad & Fifth time to regroup. We met last Tuesday and ordered to make up for lost time. We began the meal with more of their delicious cocktails. I have to say I am a huge fan of the new trend towards cocktail "mixology." When one's drinks are as thoughtfully prepared as the entrees, it can really enhance the dining experience. I had a repeat of the Peaches & Cream I had ordered on my previous visit. As chance would have it, our waitress was the drink's inventor. She whipped me up another serving of her delicious concoction, which tastes not so much like peaces, but a happy dose of citrusy sunshine in a glass. It's light and so drinkable I had another not so long after. She offered us an off-menu strawberry version, also her creation, which my sister-in-law enjoyed a great deal. My husband had the Midsummer Night's Dream. This is a dark fruity concoction that he found just to his liking.

Their house bread is this really delicious pizza-shaped bread that reminds me a bit of a cross between a biscuit and a scone. These breads are accompanied by a cheese and garlic spread that is so creamy it is easier to apply than room temperature butter. I find it absolutely delicious.

For starters, we all shared the Gnocchi Bettola, (pictured above left) which was buttery and delicious. I like my gnocchi a bit chewier (this was a very soft consistency) but the sauce was really good. We also had a prosciutto and melon. Unfortunately, while the melon was ripe and summery sweet, the prosciutto was as tough as shoe-leather. It looked appetizing, but was almost inedible. I probably should have spoken up, because they sincerely seem to care about food and service here, but after the fire I just felt bad for them and we were with a large boisterious group, so I didn't let on. My advice to others is to politely point these things out so that establishments have the opportunity to rectify the situation. They can't fix what they don't know about and it's possible they just got a bad slab of ham. It happens.

We raced through our apps, as we were all starving, and were promptly served with our main dishes. My daughter had ordered the Pizza Prosciutto and the Spinach Ravioli w/goat cheese fondue (pictured above right). While the pizza suffered somewhat from the lack of decent prosciutto, the spinach ravioli was world class. The sauce may have been the best cheese sauce I've ever tasted. Creamy, melted and a perfect balance of spices, this was heaven in my mouth. Seriously. The kind of experience one has trouble forgetting --- in a good way!!

I had a lovely raw ahi dish, but I was so blown away by the ravioli, I found the flavors a bit of a let down. Like my mouth was too excited to appreciate anything else.

We ended with coffee and a nice triple chocolate cake, and the meal went much smoother than on our previous visit. I have to say that although most of the patrons got excited (and many were somewhat hostile to the management) there was never any danger. It was a garbage can fire in the back courtyard, and the restaurant's design is such that it would be all but impossible to evacuate everyone to safety with the fire behind us and open space in front. The firemen were completely unphased, so there was no reason to panic, but some seemed to want to use the event as an excuse to leave without paying. People can be so tacky these days.

Although this meal was a little uneven, the food here is usually consistently first rate. They do italian and sauces better than most, so if you're in doubt, order a pasta dish. Hopefully they'll have fresh prosciutto before we return.

Bon Appetit!

Madison & Fifth

367 University Avenue

Palo Alto, CA 94301

(650) 323-3900

http://www.madandfifth.com/

Price: Moderately Expensive

Dining Time: Leisurely (have not had lunch here, but imagine they could get one out in an hour)

Table size: More than adequate

DRAGON ROUGE - thru the tube to begin

So, yeah, this blog is about Oakland food, but Alameda is almost Oakland. Half my family settled there in the twenties, before my half moved through the tube to Oakland. I was visiting a particular favorite of mine the other night and anxious to begin writing food. The name of the place is Dragon Rouge, it calls itself a Vietnamese Bistro, and it is an amazing treat of eating enjoyment. Last Friday night, my better half (from here on out we'll just call him "BH" for short) and I stopped in for a bite to eat.

We began with cocktails. Dragon Rouge recently expanded to a full bar. Yay~! I had the Dragon's Kiss Martini (which is a fantastic blend of mango, liquor and a hint of Sriracha hot pepper sauce). Okay, sounds weird right? Kinda is, but so good I had two. The combination of the thick sweet mango and the after sip heat left by the Sriracha was bliss. BH had the Dragon Berry Punch. This was a fruity stew of goodness. The kind of drink you want to have way too many of.

Once we have been at this for awhile, I will try to teach BH not to get his hands in my photos. But for now, you can at least get the gist of the drinks.

So on to the meal. We ordered Mango Steak Blankets, Lemon Grass Chicken Rolls, Curry Chicken and a half order of the Mekong Skewer Platter. The waitress (who was as helpful as she was beautiful) brought us the Mango Steak Blankets to start. We were starving so we dived in. There is no describing these delicacies until you have tried them. It is a steak strip of some sort wrapped around the tiniest slice of mango and a tiny bit of green onion. The meat is moist, juicy and perfectly cooked. These babies just about melt in your mouth. BH usually doesn't like his meats with anything sweet and so we had not ordered them together in our many trips here. He recognized the error of his ways at first bite. The "blankets" are accompanied by a lovely, yet simple lemon-lime and salt & pepper dipping sauce, in addition to the standard sweet & sour.

After the Mango Steak Blankets came the Lemon Grass Chicken Roll. These rolls are a lovely example of the raw fresh spring roll. They are well seasoned, extremely fresh and all around goodness. They were immediately followed by the Mekong Skewer Platter (did I mention the service was great? She brought everything right out as it came off the grill. Hot, steamy and fresh!)

The small version of the platter contains one of each protein selection, beef, pork, shrimp and chicken. All are done to perfection. One might think that they'd get at least one of the meats wrong, since they all cook at such different temps, but no. Each was done exactly the way it should be and had that beautiful smoky barbeque flavor. We had initially ordered the larger platter, but the waitress kindly told us it was pretty big, and so might be too much for us. We went with her suggestion, and she was correct. The small platter was sufficient. They next brought us the Curry Chicken and some brown rice to finish off the main courses. The curry chicken is unremarkably delicious. It's really really good. Really simple, and not spicy.

My BH is a pretty serious eater, so we were ready for more, and ordered dessert. The deep fried Banana Samosa is exactly what it sounds like. A yummy, crunchy, hot and cold pile o' goodness. If you are a fan of bananas fried in any manner, it's not to be missed.

Dragon Rouge is located at 2304 Encinal Avenue, Alameda, Ca. The phone is 510-521-1800 and their website is http://www.dragonrougerestaurant.com/.

Bon Appetit!

Price: Moderate

Eating Time: Lunchable

Table size: Adequate