HOMEROOM - Attention Class!! Today's menu is . . .

Trailer Mac (M&C with chips & hot dog!)

Some places just have a good vibe about them. We often say “it’s about the love” in the food writing biz, but it is really evident when the love is completely genuine. When the people who run a place care as much as the folks who gave birth to Homeroom, their efforts are more obviously evident to their patrons.

When I arrived at Homeroom on their second day of business, I was instantly reminded of a time and place in childhood that was very specific. Food is a wonderful method for retrieving pleasant memories. Our dining partner, @CarinaOst, also a food writer, picked up on the same thing. Walking into Homeroom and sitting down, we felt a little like we were suddently back in a classroom. No surprise there, given the name, but often restaurants fail to achieve the exact synthesis of atmosphere and impact that they’re going for. Not so, Homeroom.

The space the restaurant occupies on 40th & Shafter is small and inviting, kind of like your cubby was at school. The little piece of real estate that was yours alone. Its simple interior contains several object d’arts intended to draw a customers’ visual interest. Standing in the doorway and viewing the large, wall-sized chalkboard directly across from the entrance, I could appreciate the cheery white-chalk drawing of the State of California, an artwork that features cartoonish wiki-like bursts of info along the State’s landmarks. I’m not sure if it changes, but on my visit it depicted the locations of many purveyors of cheeses & wines local to California. In that moment I could not help but remember Mrs. Hazel Stone’s sixth-grade relief map of Brazil, similarly featuring information along it’s borders. Our elementary school project contained many of the various imports of Brazil (If memory serves, I was responsible for sugar production). My entire sixth-grade class had collaborated on the project and its effectiveness in getting us all to work together was a lesson I remember to this day.


Mexican Mac (Chorizo, Jalapeno and a slice o' Lime)



The table where our lunch companion, @CarinaOst, had managed to successfully snag a coveted seat for our party, was solid and wooden, like the heavy desks in the Catholic elementary school I found myself vividly recalling. And like those desks, the tiny carvings layered in the surface of the tables gave the restaurant an immediate sense of history. Desk carvings are the cave art we leave for the generations that follow. In elementary and high school there were always names of students from years (perhaps decades) past, etched deeply into the surface of the wood, “SJ + JP” or “Bobby Forever”, as though we could unburden ourselves of the pain of adolescence with a few well-placed cuts of a ballpoint pen stabbed repeatedly into the surface of the soft, forgiving wood. Developing a groove there, determined to leave behind a message. The ache to make a mark in life that other’s might recognize. Vandalism is perhaps an immature act, but in this form it is a childish bid for immortality we can all relate to. We’ve all known the painful ache of a first crush. It made me wonder how many desktops have suffered at the hands of spurned youth in the name of unrequited love.

When we first sat down, I noticed @CarinaOst was particularly smitten with a tiny carving of a paper airplane that adorned her side of the table. Her finger traced the outline in a gesture of remembering. There was something comforting for her about that tiny, subtle token of childhood. Something fondly familiar. It felt like an older sibling had been there before us and left us a message of welcome. It is thoughtful touches like that, things that seem random but arent’t, that serve to enhance the comfort-food menu that is Homeroom’s particular brand of experience.

While my Catholic grammar school was run by nuns, Homeroom is run by two Berkeley Law grads who decided the law wasn’t for them. Bonding over food, they partnered up and began to test the market for their variations of classic macaroni and cheese, upgraded with the use of some really stellar local dairy products. As one enters, your olifactory senses are assaulted with the inviting smell of melting cheese, toasting bread and baking cookies. The sorts of smells that take you straight into Mom’s kitchen in that hour after you get home from school. It is not yet dinner time, but you are hungry, and everything smells so good.

But I digress. The food at Homeroom is simple, and simply perfect. @CarinaOst and my BH both ordered the Trailer Mac, an inviting combo of Macaroni & Cheese layered with Prather Ranch hot dogs and potato chips. For myself, I had the Mexican Mac, a blend of Macaroni, Cheese, Star Meats' homemade Chorizo, cilantro and Jalapeno (the latter neatly blended into the cheese itself). I think we’ve established that I like heat in my food, so this made me very happy. The hot, cheesy, goodness was set off nicely by the Lagunitas Pilsner (Petaluma) I ordered, and if you aren’t sure which one you want, the menu comes complete with suggested (beer & wine) pairings for the various dishes.

To finish off the meal, we ordered a few of their cookies. After a lot of rich, gooey, cheese, I think we all found ourselves hankering for something sweet. Homeroom’s menu features some yummy cookies baked fresh in their on-site convection oven. We sampled the chocolate chip (since this batch was on the smallish side they brought us two, but ordinarily an order is a single cookie), and the ‘homemade oreo’ which was almost a moon pie. Two thick, warm, dark-as-night chocolate cookies with a lovely whipped marshmallowy filling. Maybe a little more like a moon pie than an oreo, but who’s going to quibble with delicious?



Home Made Oreo, Chocolate Chip Cookie(s)

 Love the place. Loved the food. Simple comfort food done really well, with enough variety to keep it interesting. All of it reminding me somehow of an elementary school cafeteria, but in a very very good way.

As always, check it out for yourself, and bon appetit! WARNING: They do not take reservations, and as with many good ‘n trendy things, you aren’t the only one who’s headed that way. Get there early if you want a table! (We arrived at 11:15 for the lunch hour, and lucked out. By the time we’d all collected at our table the line was almost out the door).

UPDATE: Went again today 3/25 & they've switched the line out for table service.  Still awesome!

Homeroom

400 40th Street
Oakland, CA 94609
510.597.0400

http://homeroom510.com/

Table size: adequate

Noise level: high

Cost: moderate

OAKLAND STORIES: And In the Beginning there was Luka’s...



Luka's bar- features amazing cocktails

 Episode 3: Rick Mitchell of Luka’s Taproom


Before there was Pican or Flora, there was Luka’s Taproom. At the time Luka’s arrived on the scene, Uptown Oakland consisted mostly of vacant storefronts and dusty sidewalks devoid of much but the occasional panhandler poised outside the ramp down to the BART station. Most of the retail was long gone, so this part of my City was a place to travel through, not a destination. But that has changed. Thanks to places like Luka’s Taproom, Uptown Oakland is a happening spot.

In early October of 2004, Luka’s Taproom opened its doors. The building that currently houses Luka’s is the site of the former Hof Brau, an eatery that my father referred to as a “joint.” A “joint” was any smoky refuge with a full bar and a sandwich. The sort of place my dad might have dropped into for a drink and a bite to eat, before heading to his favorite bar for a night of trivia and cocktails. The Hof Brau sat at the corner of Broadway and Grand Avenue in Oakland, a narrow, dark restaurant with a smoke-filled bar to the left, the rickety stools along its weathered counter top usually filled with one or two of Oakland’s slightly more colorful citizenry. Old men mostly, perhaps war veterans, each with a cigarette and a glass of whiskey, neat. To the right of the bar was a steam table featuring all the specials of the day— and a massive turkey. They never failed to have turkey at the Hof Brau, all day, year round, a permanent Thanksgiving feast. Though it was decent turkey, this joint was little more than a cafeteria. A leftover of another time, another type of dining — a place where the food was fast and cheap, and the ambiance left a good deal to be desired. Hof Brau was long past its prime, as stale as the day old bread wrapped around its sandwiches.



Pomegranate Cocktail

 So when the rumors began that there was to be a renovation of the site by new management, it was exciting news. Those of us who listen intently to Oakland’s heartbeat heard bits and pieces of the goings on at the old Hof Brau. Over time the new restaurant began to take shape. It appeared that the new management planned extensive renovations, which would effectively turn the dusty and unappealing interior into a slick new gastro pub. Rick Mitchell is a savvy businessman, smart enough to ease Oakland into the idea of change with a nod to the past--- he retained bits of the original Oakland memorabilia that had for years adorned the walls of the HofBrau. Past and present would come together in the new Luka’s decor.

Details continued to leak out, providing glimpses into the menu. They had plans to feature mussels, and would also do a magnificent high-end burger. Soups, seafood, Belgian style fries in a cup with several kinds of dipping sauce. They had an actual chef, which was a big step up from the old guy at the steam table with a knife. And so the rumors continued for almost a year. It was heady stuff.

In 2004, the corner of Grand and Broadway was a wasteland of empty storefronts and office buildings. Six years later this area of Oakland, now labeled "Uptown," has a plethora of high-end restaurants. Luka’s Taproom was the turning point. When Oakland’s citizenry embraced fine dining with the advent of Luka’s it paved the way for others to get in on the game, and Oakland has reaped the rewards of their efforts. Endless hum-drum hamburger stands and mediocre sandwich joints have slowly been replaced with white table cloths featuring everything from sushi to foie gras. Those of us who worked in Uptown and who had found a significant absence of decent places to eat lunch were anxious to experience all this change first hand. Granted, there had been a few family style restaurants closer to Downtown that had come and gone, but they were modest little efforts, nothing like the restaurants that come to mind these days when we think of modern dining. Certainly all this new hustle and bustle signaled something good: with the smells of food cooking everywhere, Uptown had suddenly gotten our collective attention.  We collectively asked what's in store? To that end, I sat down with Rick Mitchell, the genius and driving force behind Luka’s Taproom, to ask him a few questions about his enterprise.

Q: Your restaurant is Luka’s Taproom and Lounge. How did the name come about?

RM: After my dog, Luka. She was famous around here.

Q: When you opened, what was your goal?

RM: I wanted to create a space that would be reminiscent of a couple of places I’ve seen [that] I liked. To put those together for an informal, bar-type atmosphere and also open [...] a hip-hop nightclub. I thought that [this would be] something that people in Oakland could identify with [...] So I just cobbled together the different pieces that I wanted.

Q: With all kindness to the memory of the HofBrau, I have to say this is definitely an improvement.

RM: (laughs) Yeah, well the thing about the HofBrau is that they made money the whole time and they were serving very pedestrian food. So, I figured if they made money here with that model, then I figured that I could make some money and perhaps do a bit better on that end.

Q: Why Oakland?

RM: I love Oakland.

Q: Are you from here?

RM: Well I [am now. I] live on the other side of the Lake. I moved here in 1992. I grew up in Culver City.

Q: So, you’re a native Californian?

RM: Yeah I love Oakland. I was working in San Francisco because I was practicing law, very briefly. Commuting every day to San Francisco. I just felt really disconnected from my home and my family, working in San Francisco, I felt I didn’t have anything in common with those people.

Q: Particularly for you kind of neighborhood business, when it’s your own neighborhood, it’s got to be more meaningful. I think that would come through in what you do.

RM: Yes. It’s my neighborhood. My dog was one of the most famous dogs in Oakland. I used to love to walk down the street with her. Nobody ever knew me, but they all knew Luka. Everyone I passed was like “Hey Luka!” It was great.

Q: Is she still around?

RM: No, she passed away about two years ago.

Q: So, how did you come up with your menu, and how would you describe your cuisine?

RM: Well technically, we call it California Brasserie Cuisine. We were trying to create something that was a little bit more beer focused.

Q: Like a Gastro Pub?


Mussels in savory broth


RM: Yeah, that’s accurate. But we started with the idea of the French or Belgian Brasserie which, well, they’d actually be very fancy. They’d have the Grand Plateau or the Oysters Half Shell or Choucroute Garnis. So rather than starting by borrowing from the English Pub or the German Beer Hall, we [tried something new]. We felt like those had been done. This was definitely designed to be sort of a more upscale French / Belgian take on things.

Q: That would account for your fantastic selection of Belgian Ales.

RM: and the frittes, and the mussels...

Q: So did you collaborate with Jacob [Alioto] to develop the menu?

RM: Well, In the early days we used to get together [for[ everything. I drafted up the first menu, and showed him what was in my mind, and he gave me his thoughts and opinions. But over the years he’s learned he doesn’t have to ask me questions to do anything. He’s pretty much got free rein now.

Q: So you know each other so well that he knows what you’ll like and dislike?

RM: Well, sure, but more importantly, he knows what our customers will like.

Q: Right now, your favorite dish on the menu would be?

RM: I guess I’d have to say the Rib Eye Steak. We seasonally change it up, but we’ve always got a rib eye, even though we change up the way we put it together.

Q: Your all time favorite Luka’s Taproom dish [would be]?

RM: My favorite thing that we ever did here? Jake’s best dish? Hard to say, but I think among Jake’s most brilliant ideas was the “Twice Cooked Egg with Tartare” or the “Avocado Tempura” which was a really nice foil for a lot of flavors. But the Twice Cooked Egg was something that most people had never seen before, so it was a nice touch.

Q: Can we discuss how the recession has affected your business? Either directly or indirectly.

RM: Well, I don’t mind talking about it. Really, definitely people have been laid off in the neighborhood and people don’t have the same kind of credit. People aren’t feeling as rich and spendy, so that much is certain.

Q: So less foot traffic?

RM: It’s hard to say. We still get a lot of traffic, but people might spend a bit less. It’s difficult to gauge, because there’s been so much change in the landscape of the industry in this area. So it’s hard to say how much the recession affects things, how much the changing landscape affects things. Maybe you have a lot more seats on the one hand, but you’ve also got the Fox Theater on the other hand. All these things are kind of new, so over the six years we’ve been here change [has been] the rule of thumb. The recession might have an impact, but lots of other factors can have an impact. There’s been so much change and all of it happens so fast. But we’re doing well. It’s nice that we’re established. I think other places that are trying to establish themselves may be having a harder time.

Q: Do you mind talking about Franklin Square, (a sister restaurant that has been shuttered since early this year)?

RM: Well I have a choice to make, and I’m not sure what to do. I can either reopen it, but I would have to spend less (on labor). It would have to be a simpler concept. I’ve also got three different groups who want to operate it. They’re all young people.

One wants to open basically a very similar concept, a wine bar with a simplified menu. Energetic young kids, they’d just live there and do all the work. I’ve got a young lady who wants [to do] flatbread sandwiches. She’s been selling them at all the Farmer’s Markets. [S]he was thinking about taking it over and doing basically lunch sandwiches, office catering. Maybe opening it up early and doing breakfast.  She’s got an existing business and she’s reasonably successful selling at the Farmer’s Markets. Then I've also got a guy interested in taking it over and having a Carribbean place. So I don’t know which one to do.

Q: How do you see food service evolving in the 21st Century?

RM: Oh, I don’t know. I feel that for the forseeable future, you’re going to see continued growth of the locavore ethic, and you’re going to hear a lot more about sustainability, even though we hear a lot about it now. Basically, you know, green trends, local trends. They’re the only thing that has any momentum in terms of food philosophy. And there’s money in it. At least that’s where we are in food right now. Something else could come up.

Q: Any other future plans?

RM: I’d like to get the wine bar squared away. And I want to open a steak house in Oakland. I feel like there’s a place for a nice steak and seafood place somewhere in Oakland.



Victory Cocktail -
Deserving winner
of the all-female
bartending competition!

 What do we say to that?  We say "bring it on."  Anything Rick Mitchell opens in Oakland is gonna first and foremost have amazing food.  I can still taste Chef Lori Hurlebaus' day scallops and those cakes of sweet corn that were almost a pudding...

Luka's Taproom & Lounge
2221 Broadway
Oakland, CA 94612-3009
(510) 451-4677
http://www.lukasoakland.com/

HIBISCUS OAKLAND - Uptown’s Tropical Contact High

Salt Fish & Ackee

Hibiscus in Oakland is a warm, inviting trip to languish beside the blue waters of the Caribbean. The interior of the restaurant is a cool blue vibe, with unusual lanterns providing illumination that looks a bit like upside-down orchids glowing just beneath the ceiling, or depending upon the perspective, floating in the sky. The restaurant’s interior is architecturally clean, the wide open spaces of the dining room somehow managing to evoke the sensibilities of a modern resort in Antigua or Trinidad, while remaining slick and urban at the same time.

The menu is carefuly crafted to feature an updated take on Carribean-Creole, and Chef Sarah Kirnon's sense of adventure really comes through in her food. Chef Sarah's menu of bold flavors and innovative dishes is a delicious introduction to the flavor profiles of her childhood---  albeit fine-tuned, and cleverly honed for the palates of today's sophisticated diners. She crafted the menu as an homage to her childhood in Barbados, where she grew up cooking beside strong Barbadian women, her grandmothers.

Having grown up at the side of strong Italians who were my own culinary role-models, I can relate to Chef Sarah’s expression of their passion in her cooking today. In Sarah’s own words “For me the words Caribbean and Creole go together. Due to the region's ethnic diversity, the food is a patchwork quilt of colors, textures and flavors, woven from the cuisines of Africa, Europe, Asia, India and South America. This far-reaching blend puts the food in the realm of gustatory extravagance with our mouth-searing hot sauces, fragrant marinades, fiery spice rubs and perfumed preserves.”


Mac n' Cheese

 We dined at Hibiscus twice over the summer, and I can’t wait to get back. The dishes were extremely consistent and the flavors really inviting. I tried several things I’d never had before, including Salt Fish &Ackee. When we ordered the dish, I had no idea what it was, but the waiter was patient and knowledgeable, describing something that sounded a little like a Caribbean ceviche. It’s essentially a fish that has been cured in acids, seasoned and served with sweet peppers, leeks, cherry tomatoes and radishes, along with ackee, a fruit that was brought by Captain Bligh from West Africa to Jamaica in 1793.  The flavor of the fish itself was light, like ceviche, but the spices were more complex. This dish was inventive and inviting.

A more traditional dish the BH and I shared was their Baked Mac & Cheese. Even those who aren’t Mac & Cheese hounds like I am would find Sarah’s take on the dish to be bliss. Hearty with Wisconsin cheddar, torpedo onion & nutmeg, the thick, creamy, melted cheese coats every piece of pasta evenly and the crust atop the “pie” had a heavenly crunch. Half the battle in creating a successful Mac & Cheese dish is consistency. The noodles must be al dente, and the cheese must be creamy without being runny. The consistency here — perfection.



BBQ Pork & Chips

 I love BBQ pork. Every time I see a menu that features a form of BBQ pork, whether pulled or shredded, I feel compelled to try it. Hibiscus' version is a rich, tangy barbeque sauce over the moist meat of the pig, accompanied by a soothing avocado butter, no doubt meant to be a foil to the hot sauce. The sandwich menu was titled simply “Cuttahs” the island name for bread-filled savories. I found my “cuttah” a magical blend of BBQ pork and island seasonings, and my mouth got lost in the flavors of Sarah's hearty and searing house made hot sauce. The lovely house made chips were a nice foil to the rich flavors in the rest of the sandwich.  As for the hot sauce, Chef Sarah’s special recipe, the sauce is made from the fiery scotch bonnets (the hottest of all habanero-type peppers). She uses a base of sweet carrots to give the sauce a nice thick base, and the resultant combination of the carrot and the heat of the peppers is a spicy wake-up treat. I have to say that this condiment is not for faint of heart or culinary lightweights. Sarah’s hot-pepper sauce will definitely kick your ass a little, but in a good way. ... I promise.

The Better Half ordered Miss Ollie’s Fried Chicken. I tasted it — golden and crisp on the outside, the crust resistant to the bite just a little, its meaty interior moist and tender fairly melting in the mouth. The chicken came with a side of buttered new potatoes, that gave a nice “pop” when bitten, like a lovely cherry tomato filled with buttery goodness. The accompanying sides of Riverdog corn and sauteed lacinto kale were likewise toothsome. The corn was sweet and the greens were tender, both exactly as they should be.

Miss Ollie's Fried Chicken, Sweet Corn and Kale

Hibiscus has a vibe all its own. The heart of its appeal is clearly in the passion of Chef Sarah to evoke the flavors of her childhood and instill in generations of her new patrons the love of island food that she enjoyed throughout her life. The authenticity in the flavors, the welcoming decor, all of these things work together to make Hibiscus a unique and repeatable experience. Check it out for yourself, and Bon Appetit!

Oh yeah, and the drinks are amazing!

Hibiscus Oakland
1745 San Pablo Ave.
Oakland, CA 94612
(510) 444-2626
http://www.hibiscusoakland.com/

Noise Level: Two Bells (Moderate)
Table Size: Adequate
Service: fantastic
Parking: the streets here are tricky, so parking is a bit difficult, but manageable and definitely worth the effort
Dining Time: Can get in and out in a lunch hour

FUN TIMES @ FLEMING'S STEAKHOUSE, Palo Alto (Or, Dinner with Two Carin(a)'s & a Sean)

Quartet of Appis!



Who knew food blogging could be this much fun? A little over a year after the launch of my blog, I find myself realizing a place in an extended community--- a family of foodies --- and the welcome is heartwarming. Human connection is a powerful thing, and the many new friends with whom I have connected are a joy. Hanging with those who share my love of food and gatherings has been a bonus, an unexpected gift for which I find myself very grateful at this point in my life. The most recent of these food-bliss related experiences was a food blogger dinner hosted by Fleming’s Steakhouse at their Palo Alto location and organized by the talented Public Relations team of Social Media experts at San Francisco’s Ink Foundry, the lovelies Carin Galletta and Carina Ost.

The BH and had I arrived early, as we often do. We asked the host at the front of house if Carina Ost had arrived (Carina and I had bonded over Twitter and the recent Jewish Holydays.  It was she who had so thoughtfully extended me this invitation).  Because their names are similar when spoken, we were directed to Carin Galletta, who had arrived when we did.  Fortunately, Carin was indeed with our group, as Ms. Galletta is President and Founder of Ink Foundry.  She took charge, greeted us warmly, graciously provided us with drinks and generally took us under her wing. We were off to find Carina, and were introduced in short order to Ms. Ost and the various other bloggers who were there to share in the event.  Among the other guests were bloggers HeatherinSF, Merrijane, and Sluuggo all of whom had arrived ready to share a collectively enjoyable repast, united by our passion for food and the written word.



Crab Cakes Exraordinairre~



The manager, Sean Stangl, came over immediately to settle us in and wasted no time in pouring a lovely white wine. In addition to his management skills, Sean is an accomplished Sommelier who guided us through a bounty of deliciously varied wines over the course of the evening. The first bottle he brought us to try was a delightfully crisp Sauvignon blanc. I found it fruit forward and reminiscent of an Italian Frascati, a wine that was an early favorite of mine. Another delicious wine he shared with us was a Pinot Noir fron Sonoma, (MacMurray Ranch ‘08, named after Fred MacMurray, actor and former owner of the property). This wine was earthy and rich, and oddly enough, I swear it had notes of bacon. How can anything that tastes of bacon not be perfection? There is nothing like the flow of good wine(s) to stimulate conversation and this evening was no exception. The wines were all spectacular, and Sean was a master at the art of discussing fine differences in wine. Every glass was different, unique and really paired well with what was being served at the time.  Though I am not an expert, for those of you who appreciate wine in its many iterations and qualities, and who enjoy getting together to share such discussions and tastings, Sean would definitely be the guy you'd want at the party.

Even the bread served at Flemings was unique. It was similar to foccaccia, a nice light bread with enough substance to hold the spreads that accompanied it. One was a savory garlic butter concoction, the other a creamy champagne and feta affair. Both were eminently spreadable, gliding over the bread, the flavors of the spreads working together to compliment it nicely.

The next act of our evening raised the curtain on a quartet of appetizers that had been hand-selected and prepared for us by Chef Partner, Christopher Bennett. His selections included Fleming’s Seared Ahi Tuna — perfectly prepared slices of rare fatty tuna with a nicely blackened crust and a lovely spicy mustard sauce; Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes — the plump, juicy sweet crabmeat was flavored nicely with a sauce of lime butter & roasted red peppers; a Sweet Chile Calamari which I somehow didn’t manage to try, and Fleming’s Wicked Cajun Barbecue Shrimp which were my favorite. The shrimp were hearty with an authentic southern BBQ shrimp marinade. If you’ve never tasted BBQ Shrimp in the South, then you won’t get it. So, my advice is to get right on that.


Heavenly Pork Chop!



For our main course we were given free reign, allowed to choose whatever protein we wanted — so we did! I can’t speak for all the others, but the BH had a Prime Bone-in Ribeye, rare. 





Sean told him this cut was especially good at Flemings, because they begin with a well-marbled cut of meat, and use an extremely high heat to essentially liquify that fat into the meat, reducing it to an au jus that reveals itself when the meat is cut into. The BH said his steak was beyond flavorful. So good, in fact, that he never wants any other cut of meat. Yeah, you heard him, Flemings!



At Sean’s suggestion I ordered the Double Thick Pork Rib Chop, which was a moist double cut slab of perfectly prepared pork. It was really stellar. Nicely layered over the chop were these super thin slices of julienned apples and jicama that had been cooked tender in apple cider. They were just short of caramelized and mingled with the creole mustard glaze on the pork chop nicely.



Mac n' Cheeeezey~



With our mains we also received a bounty reminiscent of Thanksgiving abundance in Fleming’s side dishes to sample. All of the sides had been hand-selected by Chef Bennett as well. Chef came out of the kitchen several times during the meal to oversee our dining experience. Highlights of the sides we received were the Chipotle Cheddar Macaroni & Cheese — a creamy delight of cheeses puddled tenderly in and around a nice, chewy pasta. The blend of cheeses itself was well-balanced, the toasted jalapeno pepper within releasing a steady little jet-burst of heat in the eating of it. I love heat in a dish. Luckily for me, the next dish – Flemings Creamed Sweet Corn, also had a hint of heat to it. What I like even more is that happy place my mouth goes to when I get a sugary heat, like what I found in Fleming’s near pudding of a corn dish. Just delicious. – I didn’t try the green vegetables, but they all looked beautiful. We were offered a Creamed Spinach, Sauteed Mushrooms and some Grilled Asparagus. At the rate we were all grabbing for the dishes, I’d say they were all very well received.

The entire evening was a resounding success. Ink Foundry is a savvy company with great staff. It is not often that strangers who are brought together for business manage to come together so readily as we all did, but our two Carin/a’s made falling easily into conversation and companionship seem like child’s play. We all really enjoyed ourselves and were still happily chatting away when the desserts arrived.



Walnut Turtle Pie~



The New York style cheesecake was true to it’s classic expectations— the blueberry sauce with the white chocolate cheesecake eminently tasty. Fleming’s Chocolate Lava Cake was a solidly good molten chocolate cake, taking full advantage of the intentional flush of hot and cold with the use of two scoops of vanilla ice cream, which although it is one of the few things not made in-house, is still delicious. Fleming’s Walnut Turtle Pie, was my idea of heaven. A marvelously toothsome jambalaya of walnuts and chocolate dripping in gooey homemade caramel — a mouth-watering candy bar inside of a pie crust. Two hours in the gym minimum, my kind of dessert! But the Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée was perhaps my favorite. I am a sucker for a good crème brûlée, and this fulfilled my every expectation. Beneath it’s crust of burnt sugar, the creamy payoff was definitely there — nothing is quite as satisfying as skating a spoon across the hard sugar pond that is the crust of a cream brulee, until the brown ice cracks and the goodness beneath comes bubbling up in sweet release. This is one dessert that may be more about ritual than taste, but both were superior.



It was a memorable night, attended by memorable people. Ink Foundry is a first -rate PR firm, and Fleming’s Steakhouse is a first-rate restaurant. But more importantly, both are run by people you want to spend time with. Sean, Chef Bennett, Carina and Carin all held up their end of the bargain and gave us all a night to remember with serious good eats. What else is there?

I happened to be at the Palo Alto location, but if you are elsewhere and they have a Flemings, my guess is that quality follows. Check it out for yourself. Bon Appetit!



Creme Brulee



Flemings Prime Steakhouse &Wine - Palo Alto

180 El Camino Real Ste #G2

Palo Alto, CA 94304

(650) 329-8457

http://www.flemingssteakhouse.com/

T-REX BARBEQUE - Smoke gets in Your Eyes

Several weeks ago, we were dying for Barbeque, and in the mood for another food adventure. We also needed a place to watch the soccer semifinals. So, a restaurant with good food and limitless television screens was in order. After a little research, our soon to be out-on-his-own Partner in Food Crimes, had the solution. T-Rex Barbeque in Berkeley. We were off.

T-Rex is an intriguing space. Large, open and fairly “loft-like” the place is all about its use of negative space, and it’s well done. According to the website, the restaurant was designed by Kava Massih, constructed by Sassoon Construction with the help of Kathy Farley/ It is such a remarkable achievement in interior design. One enters into a expansive lower area that holds a spacious open bar, and is surrounded by swirling banquettes and tables surrounding the walled areas. The center of the room holds a staircase to the upper area, which surrounds the open stairway with tables lining the outer walls. There are televisions everywhere. This is a big sweeping, classy, man-cave of a place, yet completely suitable for wives and children. Neat.

Cocktails anyone?

Once seated, we decided on cocktails, because it was Friday, as well as a huge soccer match with everyone in the joint a-drinkin’ and a-screamin.’ Now that’s what I call good clean fun! I’m not entirely sure what I ordered cocktail wise, guess I was thirsty. I’m fairly sure it was called a Ginger Press. Looking at their drink menu on the web, that drink is a combination of Ketel One vodka, muddled lemon, ginger syrup, and ginger beer. I do think I remember the ginger beer, which I really like as a companion to an alcoholic drink.

I do remember it was delicious. The BH had this fun little two-step concoction that required he pour in a shot of soda. I think his was called a Billie Jean. Their menu says it is composed of Cazadores Reposado tequila, muddled blackberries, Chambord, lime juice and simple syrup topped off with soda. It has to be that, since he got this cute little mini shooter of bubbly meant to be poured into the concoction. Interesting, fizzy. Fanciful.

Now for the fun part. The food. Have you all figured out I love talking about food yet? Yeah, I know, right? Anyway, I ordered the Pulled Pork because when I’m in a barbeque joint it’s one of the markers for me. Can they do a good pork? Well, uh, yeah. T-Rex can throw down with the best, and I know, because I’ve had the best. The meat was tangy, smoky, buttery — every bit of it tender as possible and simply melting in the mouth. Each bite was heaven, after two bites I was weeping with joy. But I told everyone around me it was just the smoke in the air...

Pulled BBQ Pork!!!!

And then there was Macaroni & Cheese w/Bacon. They do their macaroni with oricchiete. Oricchiete with sharp cheddar and parmesan. Simple. Perfect. The white cheddar is baked into a nice crisp top layer that clings to the bacon. These ingredients all come together to result in a delectable combination of exquisitely baked pasta, held together with a blissfully gluey layer of oozing cheese, full of cubed chunks of bacon (one can get it without the bacon, but for me that would be blasphemy) — all of this is topped with a lacy layer of fricco— the bits of cheese that has melted, reformed and turned into delicate cheese-chip goodness. This is quite simply the best macaroni and cheese dish on the planet, and I can say that with authority. I’ve had at least a dozen varieties. The Mac & Cheese at T-Rex is just sheer, cheese-tastic ambrosia. I know this because we all looked at each other simultaneously and went “Oh, YEAH” at the same time. It was as transcendant as a food experience can be. If you don’t agree when you try it, yours is on me.

Another item we sampled was one they title Belma Bucket’s Cornbread, which is, as it's name might imply, cornbread. I liked the bread itself immensely. It was a very dense concoction, chewy and grainy in that good ground-meal way cornbread can be. But they serve it in a pile of honey, which I found distracting and too sweet. I far prefer a smidge of butter, or perhaps the honey butter they use to perfection at Brown Sugar Kitchen.  So bottom line, love the cornbread, will probably ask them next time to leave the honey on the side.

Macaroni & Cheese Ambrosia
- YOU MUST HAVE THIS!

The BH ordered the Bone-in Chicken Breast which was moist, smoked, perfection. The skin crisp and resistant, the meat buttery and soft beneath it, both thoroughly imbued with the flavors of the smoky pit. It doesn’t get better than this. Our PFC had a Pulled Pork Sandwich. It was chock full of the same fantastic meat I was enjoying, and he did love the accompanying sides. But seeing the mountain of delectable porky goodness I had been served up, he decided next time he’d skip the bread and get the bigger helping of the straight stuff. They served his sandwich with beautiful housemade BBQ chips. I will remark that housemade chips are never quite as brittle and light as store bought. They all tend to be a little chewy, but I believe that is a lack of preservatives and artificial processes that are better not consumed anyway. The flavors and spices of the home made are so much better, that the slightly less crispy result is preferred, at least by me. Lastly his coleslaw was bright on the palate. A nice tangy pile of cabbage to balance the smoke in the meat..

BBQ Pork Sandwich
w/House Made BBQ Chips

Loved their barbeque sauces as well. PFC and I are spice hounds, we both prefer the hot. Though we’ve been working on him for years, so that he can handle a bit of heat, my Better Half can only manage the mild BBQ sauce at T-Rex. But they’ve got a range of heat, just for that reason.

Out of curiousity we ordered a Firelit “Blue Bottle Coffee” liquer, with our dessert. Rather than being as exotic as it’s name, it was merely a small espresso cup of a cold coffee-flavored alcohol. Tasting a bit like a homemade kalua, but a lot less sweet. None of us enjoyed it much. Too bad, cause I hate when I encounter any wasted potential for success. Suppose it can’t be helped when every place is striving to set itself apart. At least they tried.

Strawberry Shortcake
w/ poppy seed cake

We finished off the meal by sharing a dessert of Strawberry Shortcake. Theirs was made with poppy seed bread, which were actually these tiny little scone-textured cakes slathered in whipped cream and generously topped with the freshest spring strawberries. I do love the simplicity of a good strawberry shortcake, and T-Rex doesn’t confuse that blend of sweet cake, fresh fruit and cream that is at the heart of this delightful country classic. Scrumptious.

So I guess you can tel by now that I would highly recommend a visit to T-Rex if one is fond of smoky-licious barbeque and/or macaroni and cheese done well. Great place to watch any sporting event, plenty of room and all the TV’s are easily visible.

Check it out, and Bon Appetit!

T-Rex Barbeque (& Sports Bar)
1300 10th Street
Berkeley, CA 94710
(510) 527-0099
http://www.t-rex-bbq.com/

LUKA's TAPROOM & PUB - an Oakland Tradition re-imagined

When I was a kid, the corner of West Grand Avenue and Broadway contained an old Hofbrau. It was one of those places that seemed to have been there forever. Serving timeless things like turkey with gravy and jello. Okay, maybe jello isn't so timeless, but still. I remember there was a full bar and people smoked inside, including my father. Yeah, see, now you're getting just how old this place was. Anyone still remember when patrons would smoke inside a restaurant? It was an Oakland fixture, but like so many things in Oakland, it went the way of the DoDo. Extinct. Closed. Gone.

So a number of years ago (around 2003) Rick Mitchell opened Luka's Taproom where the Hofbrau used to be. It retained a lot of the feel of the space, and many of the fifties-era style fixtures still adorn the large salon / pool room in the back of the restaurant. But the jello was definitely gone. Rick is also the owner of Franklin Square Wine Bar and he is a master of his game. All of his establishments have both an identity and an attention to detail that I find extremely impressive. He's also a really nice guy.

Luka's was well-received on its opening, greeted with excellent reviews and rapidly full of returning patrons. Now, almost seven years later, it is going strong, without having lost a step. An Oakland fixture, it's the place to go for concerts, and a fun and happening place during happy hour (or so I'm told). Actually, the BH and I had to drop by one night while waiting for a flat tire to be repaired and we had a few drinks. Luka's was full and lively and the drinks were really amazing. They have a full bar at Luka's (as opposed to Franklin Square's Wine & Beer only setup) and the bartenders are good! I'm a big fan of the new "mixology" and they mixed up some delicious libations on the evening in question. Even their non-alcoholic beverages are special. Pictured are a Raspberry Lime Spritzer and a Pomegranate Lemonade, which are offered at lunch daily. Yum!

As for the food, we eat there a lot. (They serve ACME bread!) Last week we had lunch there and I decided it was time to include them in the blog. I sort of forgot them because they are such an obvious inclusion. But their number finally came up, so to speak.

We started with an order of their fries. When they first opened, Luka's rapidly got a name for their French Fries with a trio of sauces. They are served in a milkshake tin, with three dipping sauces. The first is a paprika ketchup, spicy and subtle. The next is an herb aioli, sort of a rich herby mayo, but not oily at all. The last is a chipotle aioli. Smoky and rich. All are tasty, but the herb aioli is usually gone long before the other two in my group.

I usually order a salad here and they are great. The beet salad with goat cheese is one of my faves. But today I ordered the Mac N' Cheese as a special treat. It is among the best I have ever had. It's a combination of four cheeses melted perfectly over pasta prepared al dente. Just enough chewiness to counteract the liquidity of the cheese. The top of the macaroni has a baked on crunchy 'crust' of breadcrumbs ~ the dish can be ordered with (or without) bacon, but I highly recommend adding the pig. They serve the dish with side of the most perfectly cooked green beans. Crunchy and layered with garlic. Yum! Seriously, if you like a good mac n' cheese, I dare you not to find theirs perfect. Just like mom used to make, only WAY better!!

My BH ordered Bourride, which was a special on that day's menu. He loved it. I'm not a big shellfish eater (other than scallops or lobster. Does lobster even count?) but I can tell a good sauce when I taste one. They do mussels here daily, and they do them well. Fresh seafood in a lovely clear broth flavored with garlic or onion or herbs or a mixture of several. Delish! The Bourride was chock-full of mussels, shrimp, all of his favorite crustacean goodies. I just gotta say they should invent a full body suit for some folks when they eat a good fish soup, ya know?

Our Partner in Food Crimes was not as lucky. He ordered a steak medium rare. It came medium well. I'm pretty sure the waitress put the order in wrong, they can sound the same, and I think she misheard the order to begin with. I would be just about anything it wasn't the kitchen. She was new, and a little cranky. Not rude or anything, but a bit defensive. I know most of the help and they know me. Usually my order is placed before I can sit down. I like that about a place, when you can feel like part of the family.

Rick came by and asked how the meal was, and our PFC let him know politely that his steak was over-cooked. Rick offered to bring out another steak done more to his liking, but we were out of time for lunch. So he offered us an apple tart with some cheddar melted into it, on the house. We gratefully took it back to the office with us, where we had a nice post-meal sweet bite.

While it's important for a restaurant to serve food well, I have to say it's just as important to be classy about making up for mistakes. Unless you are the French Laundry, no one is on their game every day, so when wires get crossed, the best a patron can hope for is that the establishment will take responsibility for their mistakes, as naturally as they take credit for their successes. I like an owner that's vested, and who tends to the clientele like extended family. Attentive, but honest, and willing to ride out the bumps. Rick is just such a guy.

Luka's serves great pub food and they do it really well. Hamburgers, Salads, Shellfood Soups of every kind. A side of fries. If you enjoy these things washed down by a beer or a great cocktail, then check it out. As always, Bon Appetit!

Luka's Taproom and Lounge

2221 Broadway

Oakland, CA 94612

510.451.4677

http://www.lukasoakland.com/

Table size: Adequate

Dining Time: If you let the wait staff know, easily out in a lunch hour.

Price: Moderate to Expensive (but worth it)

Noise level: really really hard to hear in the main room. If you want to have a conversation, see if they'll seat you in the lounge over lunch.

HENRY'S BERKELEY - Upscale Bar Food

We needed to meet my youngest at school the other day (she's in her third year at Boalt School of Law, so you know she needed a break!) and Henry's was close to campus so we thought we'd give it a try. Neither my BH nor I had been there before, and so it's facelift was lost on us, but what the heck, the menu looked interesting.

Since Henry's is an actual bar, we ordered drinks. I have become a huge fan of mixology, and am most always game to try a new concoction. So I ordered the Hot Flash which was a blend of Heiradura Reposado with muddled cilantro, mint and lime juice. The rim of the glass was covered with a jalapeno sugar that made for a serious kick when mixed with the drink, which was itself a twist on a mojito, but much much better. My BH had the Gossip Girl (I know I know) a pleasant blending of Bacardi light & dark with coconut, cranberry, orange juice & pineapple. It was pretty good, but in my opinion not as incredibly unique as mine.

The waiter was really busy, seemed to be the only staff there for lunch. I was a tad annoyed that he failed to let me know in advance they were out of the quesadillas. I had my heart set on the Buttermilk Fried Chicken Quesadillas, and would have preferred not to get in that mindset only to be disappointed. That said, I soon settled on what seemed an even better choice, a dish called the Angry Mac & Cheese which was a macaroni and cheese, with sambal olek (which if you were completely in the dark as I was, is an Indonesian chile sauce) tomato, and scallions. When it came, the macaroni was covered in a spicy, creamy, tomato sauce that had a really well blended flavoring. It was hot, and even after the jalapeno drink, I loved this dish. I love my spices and this hit that hot-wanting-spot!

We also ordered their sweet potato fries, which I found really well seasoned. I've tried this new "fry" varietal at several different restaurants and this one was the best I've had by far. Moist on the inside and crispy on the outside, they were a real treat.

My BH had the Seafood Corn Soup and a Burger, both were satisfactory, but nothing special. He's had better burgers elsewhere, but the patty was cooked properly and it wasn't drowned in bun. Our daughter had the Orriechiete Pasta which she enjoyed. I'd say the food is mostly good, but it is still a sports bar. I would definitely choose to eat here again, but I wouldn't go out of my way for the food. The drinks, however, were another story indeed....

Henry's Berkeley

2600 Durant Avenue

Berkeley, CA 94704

510-809-4132

http://www.henrysberkeley.com/

Price: Reasonable - Moderately Expensive

Dining time: probably could get out in an hour, service was overwhelmed when I was there last.

Table size: Adequate for food served