HUDSON - Pork Belly, Pizza & Poise

Before I get to telling y’all about my ecstatic food adventures in New Orleans, I need to tell you a little something about my experience the night before last at Hudson, the former Garibaldi’s slash Marzano on College Avenue in Oakland. Wednesday night the BH and I had tickets to Buffalo Springfield, so we made reservations for a quick dinner in town before heading over to the show. We’d heard great things about Hudson, in fact, after we made our reservations, we heard from a “foodie” friend that it was one of his new favorites. He’s fussy, so we were really looking forward to the meal.

We arrived early for our 5:30 reservations, and were seated promptly at the bar to wait for the dining room to open. The BH was feeling poorly, so asked the barkeep what they could whip up in the way of alcohol free libations. The delightful young man in the well produced a concoction of pear, lemonade and fizz that was the perfect ticket for a queasy tummy. I was perusing the cocktail menu, which is laid out in order of “manliness.” Ya got your chick drinks or “Soprano” your middle of the road “tenor” selections and the real “Manly Man selections” titled simply “Bass.”

Being the Italian son-that-never-was that I am, I ordered from the "Tenor" menu, though there were a few on the “Bass” list that caught my eye as well. I was feeling like Tequila, since it was a work night and the clear libations seem to set the best with me the morning after. But, at the recommendation of the bartender, I went with their “My Dear Watson” an intriguing mix of bourbon, egg white, lemon, orange, maple syrup, bitters. The drink is also served with a lovely black cherry in the depths of the martini glass. It was absolutely delicious, and since he made it in front of me, I could tell it was made with a great deal of attention to the little details. I must say I am newly a fan of cocktails shaken with a hint of egg white, as it gives the drink an almost milkshake-like consistency without being the slightest bit heavy. I am not a fan of the dessert drink in general.


Out of this world Pork Belly

Sitting at the bar was like being at a happening. Maybe it was being on my way to a show that put me in my happy place, but I think it would be unfair to credit only the show.  I was really lightened by the interaction between the bar staff and the crowd.  It was quite like being physically lifted up and set back down in a better place. The bartenders were cheerfully greeting regulars, with a demeanor so warm and inclusive it made the BH and I feel as though we too were part of the communal fun, a hard thing to do with so many ages and types at the bar.  There was genuine merriment as one of the bartenders gave a waitress who was having a difficult time with opening his shaker a good natured ribbing.  The experience was just such a delightful introduction to the place and left us both a bit warm and fuzzy all around.  *the BH wasn't imbibing, so I know it wasn't the booze alone.

Promptly at 5:30, the hostess came to seat us for our reservation, ushering us to a lovely table by the front window. She was, like the bar staff, extremely welcoming and engaging. That means something in this competitive business, at least to me.  Bad service can come in many forms, and I rarely comment on a server who falls short because I really can't know what sort of day they are having and it's such a difficult job.  But when they are so completely on their game it's worth mentioning.

Once seated, I wasted no time checking out the menu. I was starving and there were plenty of enticing options for the hungry. Knowing that with the BH slightly out of commission I was going to have to finish the bulk of the meal by myself, I decided not to order my usual, well, almost everything. Given how many amazing choices they had, that was a tough position to be in, but a good one.  Next time I'm going to indulge in the rabbit pasta.

BH began with a lovely spring soup, and though I didn’t taste it in order to avoid catching whatever bug he might have had, he says it was really good in spite of his iffy appetite. It definitely smelled wonderful.  For myself, I ordered a starter of pork belly, and for a main we shared the plainest pizza they make, which was a mix of fresh mozarella, basil and tomato. It was simply bliss, but before I get distracted rhapsodizing about the pizza, I should mention the pork belly.

It was an amazingly well prepared piece of this particular fatty meat. The exterior was perfectly chewy, with a great toothsome resistance to offset the soft fatty insides that melted with each bite. The pork was on a bed of pureed deliciousness, with spring peas sprinkled in the mix. I was distracted so I didn’t write down the list of the Chef’s trimmings, but my tastebuds are indelibly linked to the flavors. The dish was absolute perfection.

But back to the pizza. It was outstanding.  Memorable in its simplicity, with every mouthful a delight. I can't describe flavors so fresh they jump right off the dough, but they were present in abundance.  The light fresh garden taste of tomato, the perfect fruit.  The herbs blending with the house made cheese combining to please every sense.  It looked beautiful, smelled like fresh herbs, the crunch of each bite was a pleasant combination of sounds and the taste and texture were lovely. There is another place in Oakland, on Piedmont Avenue, that does pizza this well and in this style. Thin crust baked just right in a wood oven until the crust is almost cracker crunchy but retains the moisture well enough to resist falling completely apart at first bite. The toppings were subtle and tasty. We both thought it was as good as any we’d had elsewhere, maybe better.

The BH and I were thrilled to have discovered that after closing briefly and changing its interior and its name, Hudson has truly reinvented itself.  The interior is once again a lovely open space, with the wood burning oven the focus of a clean and yet invitingly modern layout.  I must confess I found the former Garibaldi's/Marzano combination a bit confused, it seemed neither side was committed to a style and the coming together didn't work.  It was good, but not great.  Now it's better than great. 

The food is stellar and the service was welcoming without being effusive. If it seems I am waxing on about the service, it is in part due to an entertaining incident that took place at the table next to us. Shortly after we were seated, a woman was placed at the table just across from us, and we thus shared the same waiter.  He had quite efficiently placed our order, and so went to ask the solo dinerr what she was having. After a fifteen minute speech about the menu, it was clear she was going to be difficult. At one point, after our waiter brought her a glass of champagne she had ordered, she asked him if it was “opened tonight.” He replied cordially that it was. She drank over half the glass, but as soon as he returned she motioned him over to tell him her champagne was flat. Then she continued to educate him about the failings of the champagne, champagne in general, and all the ways he could and indeed must, be ignorant of the many things she herself knew about champagne. This diatribe was conducted in a VERY loud voice.  I was thankful I was not any closer to her table.

I have to say, sometimes I marvel at waiters who when presented with a thoroughly distasteful patron, one I imagine they sincerely want to throttle into unconsciousness, respond with a cool aplomb that seems boundless. I could never ever do that job. My hat’s off to Jeff.

And the food is mind-bending! Stop by and check it out for yourself. Bon Appetit!

Hudson
5356 College Avenue
Oakland, CA
(510) 595-4000
http://www.hudsonoakland.com/

SOMERSET - An afternoon at the Manse

Though the name might conjure up an image of a stuffy English Manor with miles of lawns and butlers and mysteriously-shuttered windows, this restaurant is neither pretentious nor off-putting. Though it's decor is subdued and warmly elegant, there is nothing stuffy about Somerset Restaurant on College. It's another one of those places one can stumble into and feel immediately at home. And the food is a happy adventure in tastes and textures so good it gave me dreams... sweet, wonderful, dreams.

We were there just about a week ago. A friend recommended it and our daughter was looking to get us to buy her some good free chow, so there you have it.

We began by ordering drinks from the deliciously enticing specialty cocktail menu. I have become a fan of the Sazerac and there it was at the top of the menu. It called to me and I answered. It was a wonderful licoricy-concoction of rye whisky, with just a hint of bitters. My husband ordered the Pineapple coconut agua fresca, which he found to his liking, and the little one (though she is indeed over 21) had the same. Studying. Law School.

We began this meal with their bread. Warm Rosemary foccacia and buttermilk biscuits. Wow. One was herby and aromatic, the other was the simplest, most perfectly flaky buttermilk biscuit --- both were hot out of the oven. The waiter next brought my salad. It was a Roasted Corn Salad with peppers, tomatoes and onions. The description sounded very much like a traditional mexican take on the dish, but it was lighter in flavor and the "salsa" was so fresh that the tomato flavor wasn't fighting the corn. It was all sweet, and smoky with just a hint of heat. The flavors in that salad fell together as easily, as a slightly tipsy coed falls into bed.

Then came our entrees. I had the pizza special, which was a delightful flatbread sized concoction of warm flaky dough and strips of ham on a blanket of cheese and tomato sauce. Their pizza is billed as a thin crust, which it would be if I'd never had a pizza at Dopo on Piedmont Avenue, where they have mastered that art to perfection. That said, the sauce was flavorful and tasted home made, which is a huge plus. Nothing ruins a pizza quicker than heavy tomato. My grandmother once told me tomato is a heavy fruit, with the kind of flavor that can bury everything else in a dish if not balanced properly. I believe she was right.


The BH ordered the Crab Melt, which you can see in the picture is a lovely open face of fresh crab and avocado. He raved about that sandwich for the rest of the day, so it must have been good. The law student had the Barbeque Pork Sandwich, which was a sweetly spicy blend of shredded moist pork on a lovely fluffly bun. The side of sliced baby tomatoes with a subtle oil and vinegar dressing was heavenly. I couldn't stop stealing bites off her plate.


When a place is this good, I will often allow the BH and little one to talk me into a dessert. In this case I will be forever glad I did. We ordered an Apple Crisp for the little one who is ever so fond of her apples, and a coconut cake for the "grownups." The crisp arrived still warm, the scent of cinnamon wafting off it's inviting brown and crunchy surface causing an immediate response of mouth-watering goodness. The vanilla bean ice cream melting into the apple filling was as basic a flavor as one can get. That familiar taste that sends you back to grandma's kitchen and simpler times. The Coconut Cake was something else altogether. It too, was simple perfection, but in an airy ephemeral way that set my mouth to quivering. Both desserts were delicious.

This place I can most definitely recommend. But hey, if you take your time getting there, there's just gonna be that much more for me.




Check it out. Bon Appetit!

Somerset Restaurant
5912 College Avenue
Oakland, CA 94618
510-428-1823
http://www.somersetrestaurant.com/



Noise level: muted, good for conversation
Table size: adequate
Price: Moderately expensive
Dining time: Took us an hour and a half for lunch, but might have been done a bit quicker. This is the sort of place one wants to linger in.

CITRON - a little Class on College

A week ago Thursday we met our youngest again for lunch on College near her school. On this occasion she had suggested we try Citron, an established white tablecloth joint between Taft and Lawton. It was as described. Very old-world looking, but light and airy at the same time. Personally, I found the retro style somewhat charming. While I love the new 'slick' wood and metallics of most of the newer places, I found this just as inviting as any other establishment.

Our daughter had been there once for a function as an intern at a big law firm and really enjoyed the food. She said some of her young friends found the place too "dated." I would disagree.

We began our meal with drinks. Hubby and I both ordered something called an Eloise Gin Blizzard, a lovely and complex blend of Hendrick's gin, fresh grapefruit juice, Diablo Elderflower Syrup all topped with a champagne float. It tasted like bubbles and light and had the nice bite of a grapefruit taste without the bitter. This was another really successful cocktail. I have had great success with fruit gin goodness and this was no exception. The BH and I both really enjoyed them. They came with a lovely little 'amuse bouche' of creamed humus and olive oil over toast. Delicious.

We began our lunch with a first course of cheeses. I have become a total cheese hound in recent years. The sampler boards one can order now offer such a variety of so many good blends and types of cheese that it's really opened my eyes to a world of flavor. We ordered a Petit Basque (menu described it as farmy - rich, semi-hard) and a Truffle (soft truffled goat). They came accompanied by a lovely nutty fruit bread toast (delicate, not overly chunky candied fruit or anything of that sort) and some fresh apple and jam.

While we munched on our cheeses, my BH also had a soup course. It was a splendid Maine Lobster Bisque, slathered in tarragon creme fraiche.

For our main, BH and the kid had the Grilled Hangar Steak and French Fries, which come with a lovely helping of romano beans, fresh carrots and beef jus. It also came with a healthy stack of some really tasty french fries. They were billed as the "best anywhere" and I have to say that though they were good, they were not as good as Cesar's garlic fries. There is definitely a war of good fries on around here, and so far Cesar is still King of the Kitchen in that respect.

I had the Spinach Gnocchi with wild mushrooms and white corn. It was perfection. The gnocchi were light as air and so was the sauce, a sage brown butter blended with heavy corn creme, toasted pinenuts and regianno cheese. The mushrooms were so meaty and flavorful, this was a delicious dish.

We finished the meal with a Pear Huckleberry Tarte. It had a light, flaky crust, and was filled with the softest ripest pears imaginable. Party in my mouth & dessert perfection. We were all in agreement on this one. It was so good in fact, that it was gone before I remembered to take a picture~!!

If you like a meal with a slight old world presentation, and by old I mean classy and clean, with a strong sense of leisure and comfort in dining, then this is your kind of place. I found the flavors and menu well thought out and the mixologist was first rate. Check it out!

Bon Appetit!

Citron
5484 College Avenue
Oakland, CA
510.653.5484
http://www.citronrestaurant.biz/

Dining time: a bit leisurely, but probably possible without desssert or drinks
Noise level: well padded and not at all echo prone -LOW
Table size: adequate