RICH TABLE (SF) - Follow the Yellow Brick Bridge

Chicken Lasagna & Popcorn?
Hell Yes.

I have lived across the Bay from San Francisco my entire life.  As a child, a visit to “the City” was a magical trip to the faraway land of Oz at the end of a winding road of yellow brick.   It was a place outside of reality that lay well beyond the boundaries of my childish imagination.  I remember my Great Aunt Susan taking me there for extra-special excursions.  The day to end all days, we would put on a fancy dress, don our best hats and gloves, and board the bus that would take us across the bridge.  Once there, in this place where magic was possible, we would ride the trolley car to the City of Paris with its sparkling crystal dome, to spend the day shopping; or perhaps during the holidays there would be a visit to Santa for photos.  For years, San Francisco was as far as I ever traveled away from home and it felt a journey to the Moon itself.  Looking forward to a trip to the city was the most exciting thing in the world.

Fried Squash Balls with pumpkin seeds

To my Italian grandparents, North Beach was a second home.  My grandfather was the reigning bocce ball champion for several years running.  They knew everyone in the City.  I remember the dinner shows at Bimbos 365, a place where they mingled with luminaries like Rocky Marciano and Earl Warren, while I tried to figure out how they got that tiny naked lady into the magical fishbowl.

Much of that youthful fascination still lingers when I find myself in this City by the Bay, and she remains a place outside the boundaries of the familiar, having never lost her alluring sense of adventure.  As I traverse her often foggy confines, wandering beneath the landscape of towering buildings that scrape the sky, I feel as though I have been transported to Wonderland.  There is even a hint of danger — perhaps I will soon be snatched away by the Red Queen and forced to play games for my life.  The otherworldliness that bewitched me as a child is a lingering thread of connection that compels me back as often as I can manage.  Though vastly changed in architecture and culture, she is now, as she was in my childhood, a large part of the East Bay experience.

THE RESTAURANT

Wagyu Tartare

When the reviews began to come in on RICH TABLE, the delightfully inviting new effort from Evan & Sarah Rich, located at the corner of Gough and Oak, I made our reservations immediately.  RICH TABLE is one of those places that is difficult to describe, its decor all at once comforting, inventive, and classy, but without a hint of pretension.  It’s community seating is European in atmosphere and yet somehow completely embodying the feel of the current San Francisco, with lovely planters provided to “divide” the seated parties into a slightly more private community feel.  Brilliant.

RICH TABLE is laid out in such a way as to be incredibly inviting for such a small space.  Diners arrive to feel immediately embraced within its walls. Elbowing through crowds is not something I relish when I want to enjoy a meal, so kudos to management for understanding this and setting it up so smoothly.  Quite an accomplishment.

THE MEAL

We lucked out in our seating assignment, being placed directly adjacent to the kitchen.  I’m always a fan of watching them do their magic and this group was particularly lively and obviously enjoying what they do.  After a few moments chatting with the expediter, I was informed he was Evan Rich, chef, (co)owner and proprietor of this lovely new addition to the SF dining scene.  He is a delightful young man who absolutely gets it.  His food was spot on and his attitude for feeding people is undoubtedly the reason.  Well, that, along with his significant talent for inventive cuisine.

Sardine (stuffed) Chips

The menu here is seasonal, so you may find that the dishes I have listed here will be off the menu by the time you read this.  The good news is that whatever Evan & Sarah have invented in the meantime is likely to be just as tasty, if not more so.  When a restaurant starts out this well, the possibilities are endless.

We began with cocktails, all of which were delicious.  Mine was a concoction of mezcal, my favorite new alcoholic beverage.  The modern cocktail, with it’s tinctures of fresh produce, essences of fruit and the occasional spice, is a journey all its own—  and their cocktails rival the the standards of the best in the business.  Scott Beattie could order a drink here and come away pleased.  They were just that good.

The appetizers and “bites” were intriguing, so we ordered several.  The Fried Squash Balls had a nice topping of crunchy (I believe) daikon and a smattering of pumpkin seeds, and the Wagyu Tartare was magnificent.  Beautiful fatty meat seasoned to perfection.  The “Sardine Chips” are house made potato chips literally stuffed with a sardine.  They were the crispiest house chips I have ever had.  Still warm and not at all soft.  I love house chips, but often miss the crunch that a mass prepped chip generally has and have found house made chips a little soft for my tastes.  Not true here, as these chips had the freshness without sacrificing the appropriate toothsome bite, add the salty goodness in the middle and one has a really inviting “bite.”   Kudos.

Flatbread with perfect poached eggs....

Another favorite at the table was the chicken lasagna.  How Chefs Rich thought to add popcorn to the dish remains a mystery, but the crunchy puffed corn topping gave it a texture and interest that was both unique and magnificently satisfying.  The waiter recommended we try the spicy pasta dish, (I believe it was a tagliatelle) and it was perfectly al dente and completely engaging.   I devoured mine.   My daughter loved her ribeye steak as well, and the bottle of Barbera from the solid wine list was a perfect compliment to everything.

THE TAKE AWAY

RICH TABLE is one of those hot places you have to visit.  But it is more than that.  It was instantly one of those places I must return to, and often.  Dining is about more than just good food, and while Chefs Evan & Sarah Rich serve blissful fare, they also know how to invite you to their table in such a way that you want to return.  Like dinner at a favorite relative’s house, a meal there is something to be anticipate, enjoyed, and then, once digested, experienced again and again.

Brava.

Chocolate Magic (dessert is a must here)

Check it out for yourself, and make a memory.  I can guarantee it will be a pleasant one.

RICH TABLE
Chef Evan Rich
Chef Sara Rich
199 Gough St (at Oak St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
Phone: (415) 355-9085
www.richtablesf.com

COTOGNA: Strawberry Fields Forever

Strawberry Specialty Cocktail

About three weeks ago while checking my email, I found an invitation to attend an event celebrating the California Strawberry.  The event was hosted by the California Strawberry Commission, designed to educate the public about just what it takes to bring these summer delicacies from farm to table.  Each course of the meal was to feature strawberries, and the Chef preparing the meal was (Score!) the renowned Michael Tusk of Quince.  That was the icing on the cake, but if I’m honest, they had me at strawberries.

The event was held at Cotogna, Chef Tusk’s most recent entry on the San Francisco dining scene.  It presents as a modern Italian Pizzeria-slash-Bistro, and is a beautifully tricked out space, complete with giant wood ovens and a gorgeous bar.  Though not quite the pizzeria of my childhood, it manages to maintain the familial inviting atmosphere I recall from days spent watching my uncle toss the stretchy dough, flatten it tenderly, slather it with his special tomato sauce, finishing off the pie by covering it with all manner of toppings to order.  Cotugno had the effortless ease down pat, while updating it to a slick and modern interior.  This was a place I’d want to hang out even if I hadn’t been mesmerized into attendance by the promise of strawberry delights.

Strawberries & Prosciutto

The FOOD

Guests were treated to a menu designed by Chef Tusk specifically for the event.  Beginning with a specialty cocktail: a mixture of pureed strawberries with a bit of campari, a hint of anise and enough selzer to bubble it up nicely.  It was an intoxicating and refreshing beverage.  The hors d’oeuvres were a cacophony of strawberry surprises.  Among them: tiny arancini of fried strawberry goodness, a perfect fresh strawberry wrapped in a blanket of prosciutto and drizzled with a hint of balsamic.

But the magnificent strawberry and burrata pizzas that emerged from those wood burning ovens were the pièce de résistance: the creamy burrata melting into each perfect berry, the familiar toothsome crunch of the perfectly baked pizza dough—  they were a culinary treat I will remember for some time to come.  This was the kind of food that is so tasty you can’t stop consuming it because your brain wants your mouth to experience that thrill just one more time.  At least that’s what my brain was telling me as I consumed almost an entire pizza.  It seemed that over the course of the evening those ovens continued to produce the delectable treat on tray after tray; they came at me as relentlessly as circus performers exiting a clown car.

The BERRY

Pizza Magica!
Just EAT it!

The evening was coordinated for the California Strawberry Commission by Golin Harris, a company whose expertise at putting together a delightful evening while keeping the focus of the gathering front and center is impressive. And that is an understatement.  Among those present was Tom Jones (no, not that Tom Jones, but I imagine he hears it quite a bit) of the Tom Jones Farms in Monterey.  A strawberry farmer for decades, Mr. Jones told those present a great deal of fun facts about the strawberry.  The highlights for the health conscious are that strawberries are surprisingly low in calories (this I knew from my years of Weight Watchers, their Strawberry Shake, which, if memory serves, consists of a cup of strawberries and about two cups of cracked ice and comes in at under 100 calories). They contain enormous amounts of antioxidants, more Vitamin C than an orange and high amounts of folic acid and fiber.

The EXPERIENCE

We wrapped up our evening with several delectable desserts during the seated portion of the presentation.  Strawberries atop a creamy panacotta, a beautiful pistachio ice cream, with a light strawberry garnish over an airy meringue (like eating strawberry pistachio clouds).  By now I was stuffed, yet my table mates and I managed a final slice of the last pizza making its way around the room.  That pizza was one for the record books.

All in all, this was the kind of educational evening I’d love to repeat.  A far cry from the sterile classroom of my youth.  Perhaps that’s the solution for our schools. Serve up that knowledge with a platter of sweet, simple California strawberries.   Too bad they’re only in season from April to October. (Though this is peak strawberry season in California, a reader points out that these days strawberries are harvested and available year-round from growers in Oxnard, Santa Maria and Orange County.)

Cotogna is a lovely restaurant.  While my particular experience isn’t one that can be repeated, I can honestly suggest you check it out for yourself.  Make some memories of your own.  And do try the pizza.

Cotogna (Michael Tusk)
490 Pacific Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 775-8508
www.cotognasf.com

And for more info on the California Strawberry - the California Strawberry Commission’s website can be found here:

http://www.californiastrawberries.com/

FONDA SOLANA FLASHBACK - Cinderella’s Mexican Feast & the Fairytale Ending

Not much left for the photo
of this Tequila laced concoction

It’s been almost two years, and I still salivate over the duck tacos.  The menu at Fonda Solana in Berkeley is a fascinating blend of elevated latin flavors, all served simply in shared-plates style.   They call it Mexican food, but it is so much more than that.

The occasion of my visit to Fonda (it seems they have all but dropped the Solana) was my daughter’s reunion with both her long-time paramour (now recently acquired husband) and the West Coast.  She’d missed the flavors of California and was needing a bit of reminding.  Dining out at Fonda Solana was just the ticket.  So we made our reservations and six of us headed there for drinks and delights.

Posole? Chicken soup?
Whatever they called it, it was delicious

What she didn’t know, but the rest of us did, was that next month, during her much-anticipated return to California, the boy would ask the girl to marry him. Their story was one of timing, and it was finally right.  Patience and commitment had brought this particular fairy-tale full circle.

But back to the food.  We ordered well, and soon found ourselves sated with the magnificent libations offered at this establishment.  As the courses came, we ooh-ed and ahhh-ed at the lovely presentations and blissfully developed flavors.  At the time I went the restaurant was one of the K-12 group that includes Lalimes and T-Rex (the latter having recently undergone a change in ownership).  To date, I have found a delightfully reliable uniformity of excellence in all restaurant establishments bearing the K-12 stamp.  Each one was worth a visit, many have seen return trips by this diner on the hunt for a food adventure.

The remarkably decadent
duck taco

Among my favorites of the menu we sampled included delightful empanadas drizzled in creme fraiche, hot fried cheese sticks full of oozy goodness while being light and airy as a creampuff, and a heavenly duck taco that incorporated pomegranate into the seasoning.  The duck taco was a revelation in flavors, but everything else was likewise delicious.

It was a magnificent way to relaunch my eldest child back into her native state and its myriad cuisines.  Mexican is something she felt she could never get in New York City, at least not to her California standards.  I can’t imagine NYC doesn’t have any good Mexican food, but on a budget perhaps extremely hard to find.  We reconnected over shared secrets and delicious food.  These are precious memories, which is I suppose why the surface now, on the almost two month anniversary of her nuptials with the lovely young man in the scene.

We talk often of food being love, and yes it is.  It can conjure love, secure love, bind love and remind us of times when we were loved.  It reminds of those who prepared it, the people we shared it with.  Our senses are so moved by the aromas, and the tastes can transport us to moments long gone but that will never be forgotten.  It is a meme I repeat, because it is like breathing.  Food and fond memories. The fabric of life.

Fonda Solana is a great meal if you like Mexican flavors, but don’t expect platters of heavy beans and rice.  The food here is delicate, though the flavors pack a whallop.  Pay it a visit and check it out, make a memory of your own.

Mexican "Wedding" cookies anyone?

Fonda Solana
1501 Solano Avenue
Albany, CA
510-559-9006
www.fondasolana.com

CYRUS - Of all the Restaurants in all the world....

The Magic Begins...

Ilsa: I wasn't sure you were the same. Let's see, the last time we met... 
Rick: Was La Belle Aurore.
Ilsa: How nice, you remembered. But of course, that was the day the Germans marched into Paris.
Rick: Not an easy day to forget.
Ilsa: No.
Rick: I remember every detail. The Germans wore gray, you wore blue.


HERE’S THINKING OF YOU KID

I recently learned that a favorite restaurant of mine, Cyrus, is closing its doors at the end of October.  Maybe this will be a temporary hiatus for the talented crew of this magical establishment.  Maybe it is just for now, but there is no immediate plan for relocation.  Certainly the gold-washed walls beneath the perfect mini-cathedral arches shaped just so will no longer house Douglas Keane and crew.  The massive wooden bar that is the first thing one sees upon entering the hall will no longer be where I sit and playfully interrogate the knowledgeable bartenders as to the merits of all forms of crystal tequila to enhance my personal education.  Cyrus, a place I have grown to love beyond reason, will, in this particular iteration, be gone forever.

The very special restaurants (and people behind them) that find their way into our hearts by taking us places we’ve never traveled before, can develop connections with their customers that become deeply personal.  This is particularly true when the occasions spent within their walls are ones as momentous as the anniversary of the date on which you pledged your troth to another human being until the end of time.  Those moments become the touchstones of our lives, and the surroundings are carried in the memories.  Precious and permanent.  Whenever we conjure up the memory, we cannot help but picture ourselves in the surroundings where that memory was born.

My husband and I went to Cyrus. And we fell in love. With the food, with the decor, with the people who run it, and a little bit more with each other.  And now it will be gone.

Caviar,
Egg,
Powdered Creme Fraiche
Blini

Rick: Don't you sometimes wonder if it's worth all this? I mean what you're fighting for.
Victor Laszlo: You might as well question why we breathe. If we stop breathing, we'll die. If we stop fighting our enemies, the world will die.
Rick: Well, what of it? It'll be out of its misery. 
Victor Laszlo: You know how you sound, Mr. Blaine? Like a man who's trying to convince himself of something he doesn't believe in his heart. 

THE USUAL SUSPECTS

Douglas Keane and Company have been fighting a battle with their landlord for years, almost since they opened the doors to this intimate little jewel in the sleepy California town of Healdsburg.  For reasons known only to them, they have finally given up that battle against the forces that have for so long wanted them gone. They have decided that it is no longer worth the soul-sucking battle and sleepless nights to remain in a location that is hostile, though they had over a decade remaining on their lease. This saddens me, both because these people are delightful, and what they made of the place was remarkable, and also because in my own small way, I felt I was part of the battle.  A cheerleader on the sidelines, but invested in their continued success.  It was their destiny to continue, as it was mine to enjoy the fruit of their labors.  So I am left with what feels like a destiny thwarted.

Egg & Noodles

Rick: [scoffs] You understand how I feel. How long was it we had, honey? 
Ilsa: [on the verge of tears] I didn't count the days. 
Rick: Well, I did. Every one of 'em. Mostly I remember the last one. The wow finish. A guy standing on a station platform in the rain with a comical look on his face because his insides have been kicked out.
Ilsa: Can I tell you a story, Rick? 
Rick: Has it got a wow finish? 
Ilsa: I don't know the finish yet. 

THE END OF A BEAUTIFUL FRIENDSHIP?

It’s never easy to accept an ending. I’ve never been good at it, and though I have lost my share of beloved eateries in my day, this is a particularly hard one to take.  I know that when one lives long enough this is going to happen occasionally, but it has never happened to a place as vital as Cyrus.  It feels as though it would have been easier to accept if they were at the end of their journey instead of so close to the beginning.  But as much trouble as I’m having, I have to assume it has been a much more challenging journey for the staff who have poured their lifeblood and creativity into the fruition of this magnificent establishment.  But I also know them to be passionate people, who have to have thought a lot about this decision before choosing to pack up their kitchen.  I don’t know how they are handling it internally, but I’m sure it’s with the grace and aplomb with which they do everything else.  As for me, I’m still stuck in one of the early stages of grief.  Denial.  And I’m acting out by returning in October for a last meal.

Certainly our most recent meal was enough to inspire anyone’s life-long dedication.  We began with the caviar tasting. Mounds of tiny little briny eggs atop these incredible house baked blinis.  Amuse after amuse, follow by an incredible salmon (for my husband the fish lover) and a chicken for me.  By the time the chicken rolled around I’d eaten so much that for the first (and I hope last) time ever I couldn’t finish my main course. It was so good I didn’t want to stop but there comes a point when a girl knows she’s met her match.  Another reason to go back.  Well, that and the amazing flavors.  Douglas Keane’s menus are a thing of wonder and beauty.

Cold Soup "Salad"

Rick: Tell me, who was it you left me for? Was it Laszlo, or were there others in between? Or - aren't you the kind that tells? 

AS TIME GOES BY

In spite of the news of the imminent extinction of this magnificent place (or maybe because of it), I decided to write about our most recent meal at Cyrus.  To celebrate the perfect night.  It will be perfect in my memory, no matter what comes afterwards, because when we ate there that blissful June night, we had no idea of what was to come.  Anything was still possible.  We could imagine returning year after year to celebrate our special day with these wonderful people in those beautiful surroundings.  I will continue to imagine it until they make a return.

I believe in the culinary skills of Chef Keane and Company.  And because I do, I don’t believe this will be the final chapter in their story.  Maybe you’ll think I’m in denial, but I think they will be back, and they will be better than ever.  In October, after the final diners have finished their meals and paid their checks, I imagine Doug and Nick walking off into the fog together.  They will figure it out.  And while they do, I will continue to dream of my next meal at their table.  I will wait, if not patiently, for a reunion.  I’m guessing I won’t be alone.  From my perspective, this has been, and will continue to be, the beginning of a beautiful friendship.  So check it out, if you can, before October brings the run of this magnificent establishment to a close.  And don’t forget to ask Nick to pour the good brandy.

CYRUS Healdsburg
(until 10/31/12): 29 North Street, Healdsburg

Moist roast chicken, skin crisped to perfection
sits atop a bed of greens

(after 11/1/12) coming to a theater near you...*
 *the Cyrus name and brand have retained by Douglas Keane & Nick Peyton

PLUM Oakland - (Pork) Belly Up to the Bar

A Rose....

It began with an email.  I get a lot of email, and even though most of it is information I have requested in one form or another, life just never seems to allow me to read every article on every new opening.  Hard truth is, there just aren’t enough hours in a day. The fact that I managed to receive this particular invitation was a combination of luck and timing. Guess some things are just meant to be.

One of my favorite new restos in Oaktown —  Daniel Patterson’s, Plum, helmed since shortly after opening by the incomparable Charlie Parker — was having a special prix fixe dinner.  The first of a series of such meals to be held on Monday &Tuesday nights, which will feature local-grown produce and proteins.   What could be more enticing?  Great food that supports local farmers.  Everybody wins.

The star of this particular dinner was to be The Pig.  A local pig butcher who’d worked with HAVEN Chef Kim Alter during Eat Real was sourcing the pork.  (Now, I’m a girl who loves pork in almost all forms.  Despite my decades old conversion to the laws of Moses, I still consume pork.  Raised Italian Catholic, giving up prosciutto seemed worse than cutting off an arm.  I was prepared to make the sacrifice, but my BH wouldn’t have it.  Fortunately the rabbis never asked me that question.)   Tantalized by all the potential in that “other” white meat, I made a reservation within seconds of receiving the emailed invitation.  Didn’t even run the menu by the BH.  We were down on the dance card.  All that was left to do was to wait and show up.

Beattie's Cucumber Cocktail

We arrived on the evening of our reservation, and after a brief delay while we waited for the hostess to deal with a fairly hostile walk-in, we were seated at the chef’s counter.  The counter is my favorite place to eat at Plum, or any other place that offers one.  I love sitting where I can watch the magic, the food becomes a lovely bonus while watching the best show ever.

There’s a certain kind of playful risk in a prix fixe meal.  Whether it consists of a simple and straightforward handful of courses or the more elaborate eleven-plus course “Chef’s Tasting,” one must be willing to submit their entire dining experience into the hands of another.  The patron has only one choice — to participate or not — he or she must become a guest at the table, dining at the pleasure of the Chef.   I find it invigorating.  Some Chefs are expanding on that experience, limiting their menu descriptions to suggestions of what is to come.  Recently, while being seated at Saison in San Francisco, we noted the “menu” contained only a single word to describe each course.  Last fall at the re-opening of service at the newly refurbished Eleven Madison in Manhattan, the diner was given a cryptic table, looking more like a game of tic-tac-toe than a menu, which contained several words in each line, supplemented by lithographs of seasonal symbols.  The diner was to select one word from each line, creating a mystical menu laden with unknowns, the words suggesting little more than which protein or other single ingredient might be in the dish.  The rest was left to the imagination.  Adventurous.  In the words of Anthony Bourdain “...your body is not a temple, it's an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.”

Pig's Ear Chicharrones

For the record, although the pig dinner was the first, there will be more of these collaborative prix-fixe dinners coming to Plum at the hands of Guest Chef Kim Alter of HAVEN*.  These neighborhood celebrations will each focus on local-sourced ingredients, whether from farmers, beer and winemakers, or any other talented vendor with wares worth experiencing in a meal.  Showcasing that which is locally available to the consumer and giving each a featured moment at a particular meal is a wonderful way to teach people what they can find in their own backyard, as well as allowing them to experience those ingredients manipulated into something delicious by some spectacular local talent.  It’s also a pretty genius way to introduce folks to new talent.  Personally, I want to be first in line when HAVEN opens later this fall.   The five course menu offered last week was also priced very reasonably at $49 per person.

Another fabulous addition to Plum: the long-awaited bar next door is about to open and is currently offering mixology through a delightfully “speak-easy” styled service window that opens into Plum.  The as yet untitled saloon is another of D. Patterson’s brainchilds, and brings to Oakland’s bright mixology landscape the substantial talents of Michael Lazar, gifted mixologist  who will be serving masterful concoctions prepared by himself and which will incorporate recipes from the renowned Scott Beattie of Spoonbar (formerly with Cyrus).  Lazar is an expert in liquors, most particularly Bourbon.  Mr. Beattie’s artistic input comes in the form of recipes from his vast array of seasonal recipes, and yes, they’ll have the familiar floral garnishes and elaborate ingredient preparation that have become legendary in the modern mixology movement.  Cocktails with flourish.   Look for the bar to be opening within the next few months.  I know I’ll be there!

Bloody, Bloody Mary

Though I love a good glass of Malbec, and am fond of the occasional IPA, I cannot resist a fancy cocktail.  To complement my Pig, I chose one of Mike’s inviting libations, a little something titled “By any other name” which was a lovely ambrosia of vodka, I believe, if I am remembering correctly.  The drink had hints of rose that made it very special indeed.  The BH ordered the simpler-titled, Cucumber Collins, which he found refreshing and much to his liking.  Mine was a Lazar original, his a recipe by Scott Beattie.  Both were perfection.

Now to the meal.  The first course description read: “PATÉ CAMPAGNE - bloody mary, chicharrone.”   We were served a lovely little plated containing a miniature house made Bloody Mary (a shot glass containing vodka, spicy tomato juice, seasonings and a dash of pig’s blood), which featured a cube of rustic paté on a toothpick with an olive, several haricot verts and a pickle as a “garnish.”  In appearance an invitingly precious mini-rendition of the cocktail.  The paté was rich and flavorful, seasoned beautifully and with a perfect mouthfeel.  This tasty little mashup of meats and herbs was a complete success in my book.  The chicharrone were fried pig’s ears, which looked like crushed onion rings and tasted almost like bacon, but not as fatty nor as naturally rich in flavor.  While pig’s ears are not a food group I would seek out, I found the presentation inviting and the flavors appealing.  See what I mean about adventure?

Tomato & Bread Salad

The next course bore the title “TOMATO & BREAD SALAD pancetta vinaigrette, flatbread, crema, arugula.”   This dish arrived on a share plate.  Broken flatbreads hot from the oven, mingled with a nicely tossed salad of the above ingredients and several chunks of gorgeous, chewy pancetta, beautifully browned, and crispy in the mouth.  The acids in the dressing mingling perfectly to balance the fat in the salad.  Lovely.

The next savory dish was titled:  “BACON & EGG “salad lyonnaise”, braised bacon, fried egg, chicory.”  This dish was a one-per-customer affair.  A thick crispy slab of pork belly, a bed of luscious greens, all topped off by the perfectly-cooked fried egg.

We watched them fry the eggs from our vantage point at the counter.  First they are cracked one at a time into a glass dish and the thinnest part of the whites drained away;  then the egg is slid carefully from the dish to be fried for just about a minute on the hot steel griddle, and lastly broiling it in a hot oven for another few seconds to seal in the yolk, keeping it soft and runny in the center with the whites neatly cooked to perfection.  Tricky, smooth, intriguing.  The end result went beautifully with the pork, which was crispy and delicious.  The BH insisted he didn’t like any kind of egg that was loosely cooked.  I insisted he try it.  He ate it all, and says he’s a bit of a convert.  Personally, whenever I am offered the option, I “egg” it.  Always.

Loin of Pork over kale

The last of the four savory dishes was the “ROAST PIG fork mashed potato, braised kale with apple, crispy pig.”   A moist perfectly prepared loin slice of pork over a buttery mashed potato on a bed of kale.  Simple, juicy, toothsome.  We polished them off in moments.

We were just about stuffed by now, but the sweet tooth had been activated.  It’s like a little button in my brain that goes off when I eat that well, everything on my palate teased to perfection except that one place that needs a hint of sugar to finish off the meal.  The dessert that evening was prepared by pastry chef Matt Tinder from COI.  The menu read:  “PECAN PIE smoked lardo crust, chicory cream.”  The BH also decried pecans.  He announced before we began the meal that he hates them, particularly in pie form.  Has never eaten a bite of pecan pie on any holiday event, not since he was a kid and gagged on a mouthful of the most loathsome preparation.  Or so he says.  When the subject first come up (he’d finally got a look at the menu) I’d reassured him that we’d order him something else.  When we realized upon arrival that that wasn’t an option, I kindly offered to eat his, and whip him up a proper dessert when we got home.  The dessert plate hadn’t been before him for two seconds, when he said with a sly grin “You’re not getting any extra dessert tonight.” I love being right.

Pecan Pie & Chicory Cream

The pie was excellent.  Rather than being overly cloying, it was just sweet enough, the fresh frozen cream served with it forming a milky marriage of flavors.  Along with the ice cream was a powdery dusting of something that was delicious when mixed in with a bite of the pie and the chilly cream.  Not sure if it was lardo hit with a blast of nitro, or some other magical concoction because the waitress forgot to come back when I sent her to ask the kitchen.  No worries though, it added to the mystery.  I don’t need to know why everything tastes delicious, or even what I’m eating, as long as it’s served by a trustworthy chef.  It heightens the adventure, and I’m all about adventure.

If you’ve got an evening with nothing to do, and you are thinking about going home to waste an hour or two on reality TV, do yourself a favor.  Check it out. Make some adventure memories of your own.

Plum Oakland
2214 Broadway
Oakland, California
510.444.7586
info@plumoakland.com
Twitter: @plumfooddrink

*HAVEN will be opening in November and will be located in the new space adjacent to the  Oakland Train Station at Jack London Square, in the same facility that now houses the Farmer’s Market.

Soapbox Sidenote: The walk-in was so rude and clueless that it made me wonder, again,  if there is anyone left on the planet who recognizes that they are not the only person living.  She stormed into the place ahead of those who’d been waiting patiently in line and had made reservations, demanded a table, and refused to listen to the hostess as she attempted to explain the format for the evening. When she finally did pause long enough to understand the meal was a set menu for the evening, she tossed the menu back in the face of the hostess (who remained patient and polite throughout) and stormed out.  There’s just no excuse for such rude and thoughtless behavior.  Ever.

NEX OAKLAND - Lookin’ for Food and Feelin’ Hungry...



Pressed Watermelon Salad - pretty AND delicious!

 Ok, so maybe my song puns aren’t the best, but my experience at Nex in Oakland was something to sing about. It so happened that last April the BH and I had tickets to Paul Simon at the recently refurbished Fox Theater in Oakland. We made reservations at Nex, the sister restaurant to Mua. Both restaurants are owned and operated by the former owner of Soizic formerly on Broadway in Oakland. Soizic was one of our favorites right up until it closed some time after August of last year. Soizic was one of the first fine dining establishments in Oakland, featuring a hybrid of French-California “other” cuisine done very successfully, long before Oakland’s dining renaissance was a twinkle in anyone’s eye.


When we arrived, we were seated promptly and began to peruse the cocktail menu. One has to have a cocktail before a show, right? After all, ya need to get in the mood for music. Warm up the senses and all. Lucky for us, there were several scrumptious drinks offered, and while we pondered them, we noticed that Paul Simon was on the ambient sound system. Clearly this is an establishment that knows from whence it’s audience has come. The music continued to highlight Simon and artists of his genre, and the spot on music choices really added to our overall dining experience. A little “show before the show,” if you will. Kudos.

Pate de Campagne (Country Pate)


I selected my drink, which was a lovely concoction titled the Rex Gimlet. It was a light margarita-inspired mixture of Don Julio, cucumber and a hint of cilantro, herbaceous and refreshing. The BH had a pineapple infused drink, blended with just enough sweet to keep him happy. He’s a guy who loves himself a pomatini from time to time, after all. Both drinks had a well-blended mix to them. The world, post Scott Beattie, is a beautiful place.

We began with appetizers. Time to kill and bears in our bellies. Our Paté de Campagne (pickled red onion, radish, whole grain mustard, toast) - was the sliced meat version of compacted pate. The texture was dense and the flavor delicious, it was simple country fare with heart and a lovely combination of seasonings. Excellent as an appetite enhancer.



Melt in your Mouth GNOCCHI

 The Pressed Watermelon (feta, mint, olive oil) - may have been one of my absolute favorite versions of this dish. New to me, the flavors produced when the oh so sweet summer watermelon is blended with aromatic herbs and a dash of balsamic. Such a magnificent pop of palate-exciting flavor. The meat of this particular varietal was an amber gold color, its texture dense against the tongue before a burst of flavor as the sugars released into the light dressing it had been drizzled with. I cannot describe it aptly, as you kinda have to experience the taste for yourself to understand. Yeah, I know, you can imagine the taste of watermelon, but the way it blends with a tiny burst of acid and oil is spectacular when it’s done right. Mingle that sweet hit with tangy cheese and minty summer cilantro, yeah, now you’re talking. Watermelon has a way of releasing itself into the mouth, that when blended with the other flavors, cheese, tangy balsamic, fatty oil, well it’s just outstanding.

Scallops over Asparagus

After we’d primped and prodded our palates with appetizers, the Gnocchi (mascarpone cheese, Italian porcini cream) arrived. There was a nice hint of tomato in this dish that was reminiscent of one of the best gnocchi dishes I’ve ever enjoyed. Milano on Grand Avenue (before it changed ownership and lost its footing) had a spectacular gnocchi dish I’d insist on partaking of monthly. This really reminded of everything that was good about that gnocchi— the light fresh tomato sauce, the exact blending of spices in that tomato sauce, and the cheese. The gnocchi was soft but resistant enough not to just become mush. Just the way grandma would have made hers.

We shared another plate, this one was a Seared Rock Cod “Scallop” (grilled asparagus, English peas, lemon caper beurre blanc) . It was presented as this lovely flower of fish. It was lightly grilled as scallops should be, one side golden and the meat still moist, toothsome and flaky. The seasoning was also spot on. Really fantastically flavored.

The duck blew my mind. They menu titled it Grimaud Farms Duck Confit (white bean, carrot, frisée) and it may be one of the smoothest duck dishes I’ve had to date. I have to say, I’m on a duck-loving roll these days. It just got better and better, the buttery beans beneath the fatty meat melting against my tongue as soon as the fork had delivered them. Fab-u-licious.



Duck Confit, with spring carrots
with perfectly soft white beans...

 Of course, after a perfect meal, one must enjoy a hint of sweet to finish off the palate. The day had been lovely, so something that hinted at the summer around the corner, with its promise of stone fruit, fresh corn and lush garden delights in abundance... that mindset produced a longing for the Poached pear with Cranberry Torte & Vanilla Ice Cream. Can’t say it was a let down, even if pear isn't a stone fruit! We were in the mood for natural sugar and the high that goes with a great fruit blended into a pastry. This was a lovely little example of that delight. Made from cornmeal it had a weightiness to it that spoke of the farmhouse, conjuring up a dense summer pie chilling on the windowsill made by the hands of a loving Auntie Em.  No pie ever tasted better. ... just heavenly. The vanilla ice cream they paired with the pastry dessert was spiced, almost gingery. The chilled vanilla melting into the hot pear and cranberry, nothing could have been better than that.

After coffee we headed to the show. It was a perfect continuation of the evening. So Beautiful!
So What? you say? I say head on over to Nex and check it out for yourself! As always...Bon Appetit!



Poached Pear & Cranberry Torte

 Nex Restaurant
2442 Webster St
(between 24th St & 25th St)
Oakland, CA 94612
(510) 238-8224
http://www.nexoakland.com/

Table size: adequate
Price: moderately expensive
Sound levels: could get noisy, we enjoyed the ambient sound and had no problem conversing
Service: Excellent!

HUDSON - Pork Belly, Pizza & Poise

Before I get to telling y’all about my ecstatic food adventures in New Orleans, I need to tell you a little something about my experience the night before last at Hudson, the former Garibaldi’s slash Marzano on College Avenue in Oakland. Wednesday night the BH and I had tickets to Buffalo Springfield, so we made reservations for a quick dinner in town before heading over to the show. We’d heard great things about Hudson, in fact, after we made our reservations, we heard from a “foodie” friend that it was one of his new favorites. He’s fussy, so we were really looking forward to the meal.

We arrived early for our 5:30 reservations, and were seated promptly at the bar to wait for the dining room to open. The BH was feeling poorly, so asked the barkeep what they could whip up in the way of alcohol free libations. The delightful young man in the well produced a concoction of pear, lemonade and fizz that was the perfect ticket for a queasy tummy. I was perusing the cocktail menu, which is laid out in order of “manliness.” Ya got your chick drinks or “Soprano” your middle of the road “tenor” selections and the real “Manly Man selections” titled simply “Bass.”

Being the Italian son-that-never-was that I am, I ordered from the "Tenor" menu, though there were a few on the “Bass” list that caught my eye as well. I was feeling like Tequila, since it was a work night and the clear libations seem to set the best with me the morning after. But, at the recommendation of the bartender, I went with their “My Dear Watson” an intriguing mix of bourbon, egg white, lemon, orange, maple syrup, bitters. The drink is also served with a lovely black cherry in the depths of the martini glass. It was absolutely delicious, and since he made it in front of me, I could tell it was made with a great deal of attention to the little details. I must say I am newly a fan of cocktails shaken with a hint of egg white, as it gives the drink an almost milkshake-like consistency without being the slightest bit heavy. I am not a fan of the dessert drink in general.


Out of this world Pork Belly

Sitting at the bar was like being at a happening. Maybe it was being on my way to a show that put me in my happy place, but I think it would be unfair to credit only the show.  I was really lightened by the interaction between the bar staff and the crowd.  It was quite like being physically lifted up and set back down in a better place. The bartenders were cheerfully greeting regulars, with a demeanor so warm and inclusive it made the BH and I feel as though we too were part of the communal fun, a hard thing to do with so many ages and types at the bar.  There was genuine merriment as one of the bartenders gave a waitress who was having a difficult time with opening his shaker a good natured ribbing.  The experience was just such a delightful introduction to the place and left us both a bit warm and fuzzy all around.  *the BH wasn't imbibing, so I know it wasn't the booze alone.

Promptly at 5:30, the hostess came to seat us for our reservation, ushering us to a lovely table by the front window. She was, like the bar staff, extremely welcoming and engaging. That means something in this competitive business, at least to me.  Bad service can come in many forms, and I rarely comment on a server who falls short because I really can't know what sort of day they are having and it's such a difficult job.  But when they are so completely on their game it's worth mentioning.

Once seated, I wasted no time checking out the menu. I was starving and there were plenty of enticing options for the hungry. Knowing that with the BH slightly out of commission I was going to have to finish the bulk of the meal by myself, I decided not to order my usual, well, almost everything. Given how many amazing choices they had, that was a tough position to be in, but a good one.  Next time I'm going to indulge in the rabbit pasta.

BH began with a lovely spring soup, and though I didn’t taste it in order to avoid catching whatever bug he might have had, he says it was really good in spite of his iffy appetite. It definitely smelled wonderful.  For myself, I ordered a starter of pork belly, and for a main we shared the plainest pizza they make, which was a mix of fresh mozarella, basil and tomato. It was simply bliss, but before I get distracted rhapsodizing about the pizza, I should mention the pork belly.

It was an amazingly well prepared piece of this particular fatty meat. The exterior was perfectly chewy, with a great toothsome resistance to offset the soft fatty insides that melted with each bite. The pork was on a bed of pureed deliciousness, with spring peas sprinkled in the mix. I was distracted so I didn’t write down the list of the Chef’s trimmings, but my tastebuds are indelibly linked to the flavors. The dish was absolute perfection.

But back to the pizza. It was outstanding.  Memorable in its simplicity, with every mouthful a delight. I can't describe flavors so fresh they jump right off the dough, but they were present in abundance.  The light fresh garden taste of tomato, the perfect fruit.  The herbs blending with the house made cheese combining to please every sense.  It looked beautiful, smelled like fresh herbs, the crunch of each bite was a pleasant combination of sounds and the taste and texture were lovely. There is another place in Oakland, on Piedmont Avenue, that does pizza this well and in this style. Thin crust baked just right in a wood oven until the crust is almost cracker crunchy but retains the moisture well enough to resist falling completely apart at first bite. The toppings were subtle and tasty. We both thought it was as good as any we’d had elsewhere, maybe better.

The BH and I were thrilled to have discovered that after closing briefly and changing its interior and its name, Hudson has truly reinvented itself.  The interior is once again a lovely open space, with the wood burning oven the focus of a clean and yet invitingly modern layout.  I must confess I found the former Garibaldi's/Marzano combination a bit confused, it seemed neither side was committed to a style and the coming together didn't work.  It was good, but not great.  Now it's better than great. 

The food is stellar and the service was welcoming without being effusive. If it seems I am waxing on about the service, it is in part due to an entertaining incident that took place at the table next to us. Shortly after we were seated, a woman was placed at the table just across from us, and we thus shared the same waiter.  He had quite efficiently placed our order, and so went to ask the solo dinerr what she was having. After a fifteen minute speech about the menu, it was clear she was going to be difficult. At one point, after our waiter brought her a glass of champagne she had ordered, she asked him if it was “opened tonight.” He replied cordially that it was. She drank over half the glass, but as soon as he returned she motioned him over to tell him her champagne was flat. Then she continued to educate him about the failings of the champagne, champagne in general, and all the ways he could and indeed must, be ignorant of the many things she herself knew about champagne. This diatribe was conducted in a VERY loud voice.  I was thankful I was not any closer to her table.

I have to say, sometimes I marvel at waiters who when presented with a thoroughly distasteful patron, one I imagine they sincerely want to throttle into unconsciousness, respond with a cool aplomb that seems boundless. I could never ever do that job. My hat’s off to Jeff.

And the food is mind-bending! Stop by and check it out for yourself. Bon Appetit!

Hudson
5356 College Avenue
Oakland, CA
(510) 595-4000
http://www.hudsonoakland.com/

BOULEVARD SF - Old World San Francisco & Modern Class

Um, so I swear I had them.  My notes on the evening, but they haven't yet turned up and the meal was just too good not to report.  So instead of turning to details on paper, I'm using the lingering memory of a delightful evening with good friends at a great restaurant.  I'm generally all about the words, but the food was so good and the pictures came out so nice I thought just this once, I'd try something new.  I'd let the photos speak for themselves as much as possible.  Since the meal was some time ago, the details of what can be ordered on the menu have become somewhat irrelevant, as many of the options they were serving at Boulevard last fall have been swapped out for Spring Fare.  Nevertheless you'll get the gist of the idea that Boulevard can be a lovely spot to eat. 

Let's begin with the cocktails.

Sazerac, anyone?

  Whenever I'm pressed to pick a drink "on the spot" I go for a sazzy.  The Sazerac is the original cocktail, an old New Orleans variation of an old-fashioned cognac or whiskey drink, named for the Sazerac de Forge et Fils brand of cognac that was its original prime ingredient. 

The drink is always some combination of cognac, rye whiskey, absinthe or Herbsaint, and Peychaud's Bitters and distinguished by its preparation method.  Most use the absinthe to "rinse the glass" leaving just a hint of the licorice based spirit.  Others use it as an ingredient.  This historic cocktail actually predates the Civil War.  As such, it makes me feel young to order one....




Day Boat Scallops

 When I find dining companions who will order with the intent to share it all, in order that we might experience as much as possible in the way of flavor.  This sort of openness to the experience as ritual always enhances.

One of the items we sampled were some glorious Day Boat Scallops, sprinkled with what may have been currants...

Scallops are an interesting phenomenon.  They are uniform, sweet, succulent little mouthfuls of crustacean that when prepared correctly can be relied upon to be familiar.  Not exactly the same, mind you, but like bacon, there are qualities one comes to expect, if they are done properly, which there were.  So it's often going to be about the "trimmings" and though I don't remember the specifics, I do remember that the mouthfeel of each mouthfull, was sensational.  Crunch, acid, texture and seasoning.  All present.

At this point we are all pretty blissed out, munching and chatting.  Drinking and chatting.  The couple we were dining with were spectacular dining partners, as they enjoy sharing and tasting as much as the BH and I do.  We had joined a long time friend (who just so happens to be our Dentist, so her nickname is easy).  Her husband joined in the fun, a delightful fellow who is a really bright guy and a camera expert who tried valiantly to teach me a little bit about how to use (as opposed to abuse) my fancy equipment.   He didn't exactly fail, but I seem to be fancy camera equipment challenged.  I have a good eye, so when I'm actually successful at getting the equipment to capture the image I've framed, well at least you can see what I saw. 

The Dentist and the Silicon Valley Executive were delightful company.  I think we had smiles on our faces all evening.  We enjoyed the most stimulating of conversation.  We ate the best food that can be had and we drank some really amazing wines, as it turns out the SVE being as knowledgeable about wine as he is about cameras.  I need to bring him with me when we eat out more often, as it's like having a world class sommelier in my pocket.  Although I love wine, I'm not able to internalize enough information to really select a bottle confidently, unless it's a specific year and vintner I'm already familiar with.   The SVE just went to town with the wine list.  And if you are forming a mental image of  one of "those" wine guys, don't.  SVE was eloquent in his selections without pretension.  He treated the staff and the balance of the company at his table as though we were equally expert at wine selection.  My kind of people.  What he knows (and it's just about everything) he expresses with a gentle and thoughtful confidence.  I have a bias.  I like smart people who are also nice.

Abalone, buttery, soft and delicious



Another dish that stood out was the Abalone.  The abalone was prepared perfectly.  Not sure if many of my readers are familiar with this cantankerous sea urchin, but it can be rubbery and foul if not done just so.  This was buttery and soft, just the way it should be prepared.  My childhood was spent eating varieties of fresh abalone pounded and laden with butter, it is one of the reasons I am so fond of the dish, it is wrapped forever in the distant memories of childhood and visits with my father.  This was a memorable sampling from my favorite time warp, with a fresh new take on it.



Duck

 I am gazing at these pictures and remembering what a great meal we had.  The duck was rich and fatty, its skin perfectly crisped, the meat moist and tender and toothsome with every bite.

This was a masterful meal.  The chef at Boulevard is Nancy Oakes, and she knows her food.  We wrapped up our meal with several delicious desserts.  Beautifully plated, and just the right amount of sweet to reset the palate and close out the evening. 

Dining out with friends is a social convention that goes back to the ages.  A tradition experienced and carried on for centuries, if not millennia.  From the banquets of Ancient Rome to modern day anywhere, we humans seem to love experiencing flavor together.  Experiencing life together.  I often wonder if it is because it is one of the ways we can feel connected.  As separate beings, we are always alone.  When we experience the same flavors and foods, we momentarily breach that separation as our palates share the same sensations.  Even though we experience some tastes differently, we are sharing an experience in a unique and powerful way.

We are adding something together to that memory bank we carry with us, bridging the gap that isolates. Whatever the reasons, the ritual persists because it is both basic and pleasurable.  It is as essential to our existence as breathing.

I suggest that the next time you seek a place in San Francisco, you consider Boulevard. I believe your experience will be memorable.  So drop by, and check it out.  They still have Abalone on the menu, so you are in luck!  Bon Appetit!



Boulevard Restaurant

One Mission Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 543-6084
http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/

Table size: adequate (not an issue)
Ambiance:  quiet easy to hear
Chef:  Nancy Oakes
Price: expensive

ZUT! On Fourth - Sunshine, Sandwiches & Cocktails



BALT - Bacony Tomato-y Perfection!

 Though I am a big proponent of Oakland and its resurgence in the culinary community, there is something to be said about the food that can be had in neighboring Berkeley. When Alice Waters first began her crusade for all things fresh and local and the abundant use of creative flavor profiles, no one could have anticipated the tidal wave of after-effects emanating from that initial splash. As the initial swells began to ripple, Alice was also among the first wave of Chefs to elevate plating to an art form. The reverberations of this movement in the Bay Area’s culinary ethos have been something akin to a sonic boom. The culture of eating that she and others with vision started has survived decades. What once was a ripple, became a pounding wake, and ultimately resulted in a tsunami of magnificent food establishments springing up all over Berkeley. 

Fourth Street contained some of the first offshoots to appear, including the Fourth Street Grill, which ironically is the site of the new restaurant Zut!.  Fact is, over the years it has seen businesses arrive and thrive — and unfortunately — falter and disappear. Nevertheless, the Bay Area continues to benefit from this constant expansion of the food industry and it expands and radiates its tasty goodness into the community.



Meatballs, Cheese & Avocado



The particular Berkeley establishment that is the topic of today’s article is one of Fourth Street’s newest additions: Zut! The owners, Denny Abrams and Rick Millikan, define their menu as regional Mediterranean. This menu is as interpreted by executive chef Jim Wimborough, who is a graduate of, among others, Boulevard & Rubicon in San Francisco, as well as Evvia Estiatorio in Palo Alto. Wimborough is a talented Chef, and the evidence of this skill is in the food.

Zut! represents the first time its owners have opened a restaurant. Though Abrams-Millikan has been at the forefront of developing much of Fourth Street’s shopping district, as well as designing the look of several of its restaurants — including O’ Chame, Bette’s Oceanview Diner and Tacubaya — this is the first time the pair has opened an eatery. One has to give them credit for moxie, since the recession has hit Fourth Street hard, closing several establishments over the past several years. Part of that may be due to the lack of any real parking. Any destination that is this difficult to reach to begin with, ultimately begins by having something to prove. It needs to be that much better than all of its competition.

Zut! may very well rise to this challenge. It is certainly worth a trip, despite its accessibility issues. Several weeks ago, the BH and I ate at Zut! and I think we will make our way there again. Particularly now that we’ve finally gotten a dose of Spring here in our little enclave by the Bay. Zut! is uniquely designed to feature good weather, with a main dining area that features beautiful European-style windows that open onto the street, as well as a massive skylight in the ceiling that features a peek at heaven when opened. What genius decorator thought to include heaven in the mix? The design of the room itself is seriously brilliant in its wide-open and welcoming simplicity.



Our meal began with cocktails. I had a Maltese, which was a nice light combination of Grey Goose Vodka, grapefruit juice, lemon, mint, and ouzo. The acidity in the grapefruit juice and the lemon complimented the mint well, and the hint of licorice that resonated on the palate was just delightful. A subtly fabulous combination of flavors. The BH had their Sangria, which was unlike any Sangria I have experienced in the past. My guess is that this version is what was intended when the drink was originally invented, before the eighties and mixes and cheap, easy red wine bastardized an otherwise heavenly concoction. What I tasted at Zut! was a rich, vibrant red wine whose flavors had been enhanced beautifully by the essences of fruit juice without losing any of the wine’s natural body. Excellent.



Wrapped in Flavor



We share a plate of the Lamb Meatballs, a savory, moist ball of tasty that arrived with a few slices of pita, avocado and a fresh & tangy tomato sauce. The sauce was likewise flavorful, a lovely combination of well-balanced nice spices rounded out by the acidity of the tomatoes.

For our mains, the BH had the Bill Niman Roasted Turkey Wrap, which presented itself as a lovely concoction of red bell pepper, dill and creme fraiche. Ordinarily the BH will go out of his way to avoid a bell pepper, but this was so well balanced, and the pepper so subtle, he ate it mostly intact. It was a simple mixture, but nonetheless successful. I myself ordered the “BALT” which is basically a Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato with avocado. The combination of the gently toasted slices of thick ACME bread, sliced farm style at almost an inch deep, layered lovingly with healthy slabs of applewood smoked bacon, romaine lettuce, and sweet, ripe tomato. Over this was spread a house made aioli, more subtle than a mayonnaise but maintaining the necessary familiarity of oil & egg flavor that plays like nothing else against the bacon. This was nothing less than a perfect sandwich. Memorable enough that I’m still fantasizing about another bite.

Pressed for time, we didn’t linger for dessert. Perhaps that is a treat for another day. Either way, we will most certainly return, and probably while the sun is shining to take advantage of the wonderful airy decor. You should go yourself, check it out, and as always, Bon Appetit!

Zut!
1820 4th Street
(between Virginia St & Hearst Ave)
Berkeley, CA 94710
(510) 644-0444
www.zutonfourth.com/


Tables: adequate
Noise: moderate
Cost: moderate