BOULEVARD SF - Old World San Francisco & Modern Class

Um, so I swear I had them.  My notes on the evening, but they haven't yet turned up and the meal was just too good not to report.  So instead of turning to details on paper, I'm using the lingering memory of a delightful evening with good friends at a great restaurant.  I'm generally all about the words, but the food was so good and the pictures came out so nice I thought just this once, I'd try something new.  I'd let the photos speak for themselves as much as possible.  Since the meal was some time ago, the details of what can be ordered on the menu have become somewhat irrelevant, as many of the options they were serving at Boulevard last fall have been swapped out for Spring Fare.  Nevertheless you'll get the gist of the idea that Boulevard can be a lovely spot to eat. 

Let's begin with the cocktails.

Sazerac, anyone?

  Whenever I'm pressed to pick a drink "on the spot" I go for a sazzy.  The Sazerac is the original cocktail, an old New Orleans variation of an old-fashioned cognac or whiskey drink, named for the Sazerac de Forge et Fils brand of cognac that was its original prime ingredient. 

The drink is always some combination of cognac, rye whiskey, absinthe or Herbsaint, and Peychaud's Bitters and distinguished by its preparation method.  Most use the absinthe to "rinse the glass" leaving just a hint of the licorice based spirit.  Others use it as an ingredient.  This historic cocktail actually predates the Civil War.  As such, it makes me feel young to order one....




Day Boat Scallops

 When I find dining companions who will order with the intent to share it all, in order that we might experience as much as possible in the way of flavor.  This sort of openness to the experience as ritual always enhances.

One of the items we sampled were some glorious Day Boat Scallops, sprinkled with what may have been currants...

Scallops are an interesting phenomenon.  They are uniform, sweet, succulent little mouthfuls of crustacean that when prepared correctly can be relied upon to be familiar.  Not exactly the same, mind you, but like bacon, there are qualities one comes to expect, if they are done properly, which there were.  So it's often going to be about the "trimmings" and though I don't remember the specifics, I do remember that the mouthfeel of each mouthfull, was sensational.  Crunch, acid, texture and seasoning.  All present.

At this point we are all pretty blissed out, munching and chatting.  Drinking and chatting.  The couple we were dining with were spectacular dining partners, as they enjoy sharing and tasting as much as the BH and I do.  We had joined a long time friend (who just so happens to be our Dentist, so her nickname is easy).  Her husband joined in the fun, a delightful fellow who is a really bright guy and a camera expert who tried valiantly to teach me a little bit about how to use (as opposed to abuse) my fancy equipment.   He didn't exactly fail, but I seem to be fancy camera equipment challenged.  I have a good eye, so when I'm actually successful at getting the equipment to capture the image I've framed, well at least you can see what I saw. 

The Dentist and the Silicon Valley Executive were delightful company.  I think we had smiles on our faces all evening.  We enjoyed the most stimulating of conversation.  We ate the best food that can be had and we drank some really amazing wines, as it turns out the SVE being as knowledgeable about wine as he is about cameras.  I need to bring him with me when we eat out more often, as it's like having a world class sommelier in my pocket.  Although I love wine, I'm not able to internalize enough information to really select a bottle confidently, unless it's a specific year and vintner I'm already familiar with.   The SVE just went to town with the wine list.  And if you are forming a mental image of  one of "those" wine guys, don't.  SVE was eloquent in his selections without pretension.  He treated the staff and the balance of the company at his table as though we were equally expert at wine selection.  My kind of people.  What he knows (and it's just about everything) he expresses with a gentle and thoughtful confidence.  I have a bias.  I like smart people who are also nice.

Abalone, buttery, soft and delicious



Another dish that stood out was the Abalone.  The abalone was prepared perfectly.  Not sure if many of my readers are familiar with this cantankerous sea urchin, but it can be rubbery and foul if not done just so.  This was buttery and soft, just the way it should be prepared.  My childhood was spent eating varieties of fresh abalone pounded and laden with butter, it is one of the reasons I am so fond of the dish, it is wrapped forever in the distant memories of childhood and visits with my father.  This was a memorable sampling from my favorite time warp, with a fresh new take on it.



Duck

 I am gazing at these pictures and remembering what a great meal we had.  The duck was rich and fatty, its skin perfectly crisped, the meat moist and tender and toothsome with every bite.

This was a masterful meal.  The chef at Boulevard is Nancy Oakes, and she knows her food.  We wrapped up our meal with several delicious desserts.  Beautifully plated, and just the right amount of sweet to reset the palate and close out the evening. 

Dining out with friends is a social convention that goes back to the ages.  A tradition experienced and carried on for centuries, if not millennia.  From the banquets of Ancient Rome to modern day anywhere, we humans seem to love experiencing flavor together.  Experiencing life together.  I often wonder if it is because it is one of the ways we can feel connected.  As separate beings, we are always alone.  When we experience the same flavors and foods, we momentarily breach that separation as our palates share the same sensations.  Even though we experience some tastes differently, we are sharing an experience in a unique and powerful way.

We are adding something together to that memory bank we carry with us, bridging the gap that isolates. Whatever the reasons, the ritual persists because it is both basic and pleasurable.  It is as essential to our existence as breathing.

I suggest that the next time you seek a place in San Francisco, you consider Boulevard. I believe your experience will be memorable.  So drop by, and check it out.  They still have Abalone on the menu, so you are in luck!  Bon Appetit!



Boulevard Restaurant

One Mission Street
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 543-6084
http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/

Table size: adequate (not an issue)
Ambiance:  quiet easy to hear
Chef:  Nancy Oakes
Price: expensive

COMMIS Restaurant - Starry, Starry Night~

Hibiscus Jasmine Soda

Before she left to study for the Bar in Los Angeles, the Grad Student managed to talk her father and I into several nice “going away” meals. Since I’m a sucker for a nice meal with either or both of my children, this was not a difficult task on her part. As we were discussing the various choices on our short list of places to select for one of our lovely little “food-a-tetes,” Commis in Oakland made its way into the dialogue. Commis is the French nickname for the bottom assistant in the kitchen of the Chef. The guy who cleans up after everyone else in exchange for kitchen experience. That little guy (or gal) at the bottom of the kitchen’s pecking order.

The GS and I chatted a bit, weighing the pros (it’s got a Michelin star, a great reputation and it’s local) against the cons (there weren’t any, except that the restaurant is small and reservations might be hard to come by). It took very little to push Commis to the top of our list. That conversation was just the necessary catalyst to get us to check it out before The Grad Student’s move to So Cal. It was just a matter of making the time to get there. So a little over a month in advance, I called in a reservation for three and we settled in to wait for our little trip together to bliss out on food. Again. We managed to obtain a reservation in an early evening slot, right as the restaurant opened, on a date we could all manage to make it. We picked a Wednesday so she would be done with class for the week and able to relax for the evening. I called. They answered. We were on the books and would soon be dining at Commis. Success!

Amusing Eggs!

The date rolled around and we headed to the address on Piedmont Avenue. We arrived a bit early, found a parking space and headed to see if we could get in early for a drink. We found a parking space directly across the street from where we believed the restaurant to be, but we were unable to see for sure, so we walked over to it. We got as far as Bay Wolf and realized we must have missed it. Turning around we walked back down the block and stopped where we thought Jojo’s used to be. All we saw was an awning. No street number was visible, but the door way led to a partially obscured window, with an interior visible that appeared to contain a kitchen. Maybe. The door was still locked (did I say we were early?) so we couldn’t peek in to see if it was indeed the right place, but it had to be. We know Piedmont Avenue pretty well, but even for those familiar with the area this place is pretty well hidden. It is the very small unmarked doorway next door to Bay Wolf, just across the driveway, on the same side of the street, and is the sort of tiny “hole-in-the-wall” that just isn’t going to be a place you accidentally stumble across. It’s more like many of the hideaways we found in Italy — but only with the help of locals and several maps. So trust your gut and be persistent. If you get there and lose your bearings, keep trying to find your way. It is well worth it.

Now on to the meal!

the Bowl of Spring (Asparagus Soup)!

We were quickly escorted from the doorway past the kitchen to the tiny dining room. The entire area consists of approximately six or seven tables set out in a dining room slightly bigger than my own. It is, however, a long, airy, very chic space with slick appointments and a very welcoming layout. It is also nicely lighted. A good place to show off, experience and consume food. The meal is always a single prix fixe of approximately sixty dollars for three courses. One may add another thirty for wine pairings with each course. We chose to go with the full deal, and experience their pairings in addition to the food. It was a wise decision, and actually pretty reasonable considering what one can sometimes pay in a fine dining establishment. I must remark here on something I have noticed in several restaurants recently that really irks me. Two people came into the restaurant, were seated at their table and handed menus. They looked briefly at the menus, called the waitress over, and left. Now given that this is not an establishment where one can simply walk in and sit down, the only conclusion I can draw is that these women did not do their homework. Or that perhaps they didn’t like what was on the menu? But that seems odd since there were three choices in each category and the food was not all that adventurous. In my mind, this sort of behavior demonstrates a lack of respect for the chef and the restaurant as a place of business. It’s not like the food was ill prepared, these women hadn’t yet tasted a bite. They clearly just changed their minds. Tacky. Those are decisions that should be made before one actually arrives at a restaurant for dinner. Just my opinion, but check the menu, check the prices, and check the restaurant’s methods of service before you get there to save everyone time and embarrassment. Why cost them a seating, especially in a place this small, smack in a middle of a recession? Again. Tacky, tacky, tacky!

But I digress. In spite of this momentary hiccup, our dining experience was truly wonderful.  It began, as it so often does, with a creative chef serving us a clever little amuse bouche. Shortly after we put in our orders, we were each presented with a tiny glass shooter of Hibiscus Jasmine Soda, which was actually a “pre-amuse” bouche — an extra treat to whet our appetite for the next piece of what I hoped would be a masterful painting. The soda was full of promise for just that: light, fresh and frothy, it made a lovely tasting palate cleanser with which to begin our meal.

Abalone - heavenly perfection

The amuse bouche came next. This dish is one so good that I sincerely hope the Chef keeps it on the menu for some time to come, as I’d love to experience it a second time. Before going to Commis, I had read many on-line comments about this dish. It seems to be one of those special concoctions that makes an impression, that has a personality all its own, a dish with layers.

It looks like a fried egg in a ceramic bowl, but it is actually a perfectly poached egg yolk atop a cloud of onion cream disguised as egg white, with a sprinkle of smoked dates and chive meant to be eaten along with the foam and egg. The yolk was as full-bodied as a pudding, rolling over the tongue, it’s thick golden syrup mingling with the onion, dates and making the most amazing flavors together. It’s a magical concoction. My BH hates fried eggs. He doesn’t like egg whites. The look on his face just after he took his first tentative bite of this egg cream magic pudding was priceless. The uncertainty in his face turned to surprise. Our neighbors at the next table received theirs and the looks on their faces were likewise skeptical. Then we heard “Oh my goodness you have to taste this. It is the best thing I have ever eaten.” I certainly can’t disagree.

Oh Cod, that was good!

We were next treated to our appetizer courses. Since she has an allergy to seafood, the Grad Student thought the abalone might be risky and so began her meal with an absolutely delightful Chilled Asparagus Soup that might best be described as Spring in a bowl. The flavors of yogurt, pistachio mousse and a hint of meyer lemon mingled with the fresh asparagus to create a taste that mimicked well the tastes and sensations of that vernal season.

The BH and I do not have allergies, and abalone has long been one of my favorite foodstuffs on the planet. We each had the chef’s splendid Baby Abalone with Brown Butter, served over avocado with raw peas and kelp. The whole affair swimming in a pea shell bouillon. The abalone meat itself was soft and malleable, easier to cut with a fork than sponge cake. The bouillon and butter washed over the meat for the perfect blend of flavors. There is just nothing quite like butter and abalone for making a mouth full of tastebuds happy.

Once we got to the main, we were impressed and really looking forward to our dishes. There were three choices, and we decided to order one of each, so we could taste them all. Though the Grad Student was able to taste the Abalone (she is reasonably sure her allergy is not to shellfish), we knew she would not be able to try any form of whitefish, which was one of the main dish selections. Nevertheless she was kind enough to let us try a bite of hers.

Poached Guinea Hen

The fish choice on this evening's menu was a delectable Confit of Atlantic Cod.  It arrived in the form of a lovely soft mound of Cod Filet sitting pertly in a broth of almond milk, carefully laid atop brown rice and a scattering of artichoke. The primary spice used was anise and the combination was this soft, delicate flaky, delectable fish with the most amazing subtle, luscious flavor. Oh my.

My my my.

The BH had their Poached Guinea Hen with seared potato, spiced with some crushed fresh thyme and served over spinach and chanterelle mushrooms. The meat of the bird was moist, fresh and savory, enhanced by the crispy outer skin which was seared to perfection. There is nothing quite like a well done bird in his book.

Slow Roast of Beef

Our little fish-deprived Grad Student had the Slow Roast Sirloin of Beef with caramelized cauliflower and something the callled Spring Garlic Pudding. The whole affair was lathered in a sauce of bone marrow jus, just bloody enough to make it deliciously moist, the meat itself a spectacular cut of beef. Yes, I said bloody. I am a proud and unabashed carnivore.

When we had devoured our mains, and after lots of fork sharing, we were ready for dessert. We ordered the cheesboard, which was a lovely selection of cheeses: blue cheese roquefort (Vermont); soft goat’s milk, Sonoma; Sheeps’ milk, med hard, wisconsin - honeycomb, meyer lemon marmalade, walnut levain. All of them good, all of them vastly different from one another, which is nice at the end of a meal. The Europeans had a great idea. There is something satisfying about ending a meal with both cheese and a hint of sweetness. I think it may allow the sugar to somehow better complete the sensations on the palate. I don’t know exactly, but I know it fulfills an almost carnal need on some really primitive level.

Along with our cheese we had to try the Chocolate Brioche Pudding. It was a dark rich and chocolate-y mound of goodness that succeeded in being rich without being too heavy. It was accompanied by a nice dollop of green tea ice cream; and a smashing Popcorn Custard. This turned out to be a serving of moist and puffy popcorn laden custard, sweet, chewy and enhanced by the addition of some caramelized puffed rice. I liked all the textures and flavors together.

Post Meal
Cheese Board

All in all, this was an amazing meal, well worth it’s star. But if you’re walking by, don’t blink or you’ll miss it's twinkle!

Commis

3859 Piedmont Avenue

Oakland, CA 94611

510.653.3902

http://www.commisrestaurant.com/

Dining time: leisurely, only serves dinner

Service: excellent

Noise level: moderate, maybe two bells. Quiet inside because it is small, but a good deal of wood. Doubt they could accommodate a large party, but if they could, it might be loud.

Chocolate Brioche Pudding

CAMINO - Out of your comfort zone and into the clouds

Cocktails anyone?

 After months of various friends encouraging us to try Camino, the BH and I finally made it there at the end of March. We’d hesitated for ages, unsure as to the wild fare on the menu. Would it appeal? Would we find something we could eat or would it be just too out there? We’ve only dined at similar establishments twice before. Once at Cibreo in Firenze, where the food was way way out of our comfort zone, but amazing, and the other was Cochon in New Orleans, where I’m pretty sure I had rabbit and alligator in the same meal. The fact is, there are many unusual foods that can be done magnificently, and Camino definitely does what they do very well.

To begin with, the restaurant itself is a beautiful open space. It’s a large converted furniture store, that oddly enough used to be the site of a dear friend’s antique store. Entering it was like coming home, as memories flooded my head, I was simultaneously greeted by the warmth of the wood-burning brick ovens that line one end of the high-ceilinged hall. Were it not for something inherently and irresistibly modern about the venue, one might almost imagine Henry VIII and his court holding some sort of post-jousting feast there. The warmth of the oven permeates the entire space - the scent of the smoke wafts everywhere gently, like a subtle breeze off the ocean.  It is very well ventilated, however, so the smoke is not "smoky, per se." The only thing that reaches the customer is the lovely scent of the roasting meats, the wood fire and just enough light and warmth to be pleasurable.  It is an extremely welcoming environment, particularly given the feeling of vast negative space provided by the completely open layout.

We began, as we always do, at the beginning. I had a drink consisting of rum, lime, orgeat, absinthe and coffee bitters. They do not give their drinks names here, the menu simply lists several different cocktails with a variety of ingredients. The bartender is a magician, all the same. Mine was an amazing cocktail, the flavors were very herbal while at the same time being a bit sweet. The mixture had a hint of the absinthe flavor without overwhelming the rest of the drink. It was delicious.

Grilled Pork Belly w/Sauerkraut

The BH had a drink composed of Tequila Blanco, cherry brandy, lime, grapefruit juice and gum syrup. It was sweeter than mine, a balanced and refreshing drink with the nice tart taste of silver tequila providing a final crisp finish to its overall citrusy bite. I loved my taste and he thoroughly enjoyed it. 

We dug into a nice loaf of Acme teardrop loaf bread to begin our evening.

We ordered starters to share. The first was the Grilled pork belly, which came with a side of homemade sauerkraut and carrot salad. The sauerkraut was crisp and airy, like a pickled cotton candy. The flavor of the pork was mouth-watering, it was just a bit fatty, the flavor of the bacon rich against the pickle of the sauerkraut. The carrot was also a bit sweet and complimented the richness of the bacon perfectly.

Bucatini w/Sardines

The other dish we shared was the wood-oven-baked bucatini topped with local sardines. The pasta was a lovely bowl of thick strands of egg-rich noodles with a savory sauce of wild fennel, saffron, almonds and currants. We both loved it. I think the strong briny taste of the sardine over the slightly sweet currants in the buttery pasta was spectacularly unusual and such a treat. The pasta was thick enough to make more of a statement, giving almost a bready consistency to every bit. We both loved the toasty crunch of the croutons as well. This dish had a hearty blend of flavors, each mouthful was like a “surprise” mini-buffet, with every bite a slightly different variation on the theme of the whole. Really creative cooking.

Oven Roasted Sand Dabs

Our mains were both adventurous without being over the top. The BH enjoyed what was essentially a “duck two ways” though it wasn’t called that. It was titled simply, Grilled Duck Breast and Slow-cooked Leg. The grilled duck breast was slightly rare, not at all gamey and perfectly cooked. The slow cooked leg had that lovely vaguely greasy (in a good way) flavor duck can have when the fat is roasted straight into the meat. Very tasty. The sides that came with the dish were some Belgian endives and blood orange, along with a set of roasted potatoes cooked in duck fat. Seriously good eats.

Grilled Duck Breast
& Slow-Cooked Leg

I had the fish, which tonight was the wood-oven roasted Sand Dabs. They were flaky, light and buttery, the lovely bed of farro underneath was similar to wild rice in consistency and flavor, perhaps even a bit more interesting with its herbal crunchiness. The dish was finished off with wild nettles and seasonings.

Desserts here were as varied and unique as the other dishes. My BH tried something incredibly simple, a dish of broken Tcho chocolate, which was served as a lovely little dish comprised of flaked of this magnificent brand of semi-sweet chocolate. He had it with his coffee and found it to be just the thing to finish off his meal. A lovely lingering taste of bitter chocolate on the palate. Something really smart and restrained about the choice to serve an actual “bite” of sweetness at the end of a meal.

I myself sampled (and subsequently devoured) a Cornmeal olive oil cake with poached prunes. The prunes themselves had been cooked at length (virtually stewed in fact) in wine, sugar and blood orange juice which left them soft, almost like peaches and amazingly un-prunelike in the resultant flavor. Not that I mind a good prune necessarily, they are after all, dried plums and plums are delicious. But I digress. They were just lip-smacking good and combined with the density of the cornmeal cake made for nice spongy mouthfuls of tasty.  The olive oil flavoring kept the cake from being overly sweet, and the prunes kept it from being overly savory.  The strong cornmeal texture was just the right balance to offset the creamy sweet of the prunes.

Cornmeal Cake w/ Prunes

With so much dining out, I’ve grown accustomed to having a bit of dessert after a meal quite often.   I prefer to keep it simple and have only a few bites or I'm so full at the end of the meal I don't enjoy the experience.  Just a tiny bit of something pleasantly sweet to complete the dining experience and top off the meal.  In this case the corn meal cake really hit the spot.

Tcho Chocolate

The entire meal was an adventure, as well as an extremely pleasurable experience. The various textures and tastes in the foods we dined on were unique, well-executed and extremely well-balanced. I’ve heard they do a brunch and I’d love to drive in sometime from Newark just to check it out. Well done, Camino! As always check it out, and Bon Appetit!

 

Camino

3917 Grand Avenue

Oakland, CA  94610

510-547-5035

 

http://www.caminorestaurant.com/

 

Dining time: nothing you'd want to rush, but they don't serve lunch, so no worries

Noise level: potentially very high.  We had no problem because of the way they space out the patrons, but if it's full, then you might have to shout.  3-4

Service: excellent. 

LARK CREEK STEAK - Respite from Receipts & Recreation

My eldest daughter was visiting from New York City, so we’d decided to do a girls’ day out and spend it in the Westfield Shopping Center in San Francisco. After a few hours of vigorous, conspicuous consumption, we were tired, so we opted to take a break and eat something.


My sister-in-law came with, as did my niece. When my New Yorker said she was craving actual Mexican food (which is apparently impossible to get in NYC) Sis-in-law suggested we check out Zazil, the Mexican place upstairs in the Westfield mall. Upon arriving at the top of the escalator, we found that Zazil was closed. Permanently. A victim of the recession. Apparently, as the hostess for Lark Creek put it “it’s pretty hard to compete with high end Mexican food in a mall, especially in a City that is known for really good and inexpensive Mexican food.”

She was right, of course. Even I will balk at lavishly priced tacos, since that is a comfort food. In my mind some of the more abundant home-style foods should come with a reduced price tag. There are exceptions, like the pizza at Dopo or Boot & Shoe, or even the mexican tapas at Tamarindo. When it’s an elevated comfort food, one can always justify paying a little more, but generally, high-end Mexican food in a mall is hardly a recipe for success.

So when we found ourselves at that moment, hovering in the doorway to Lark Creek Steak, we opted to go ahead and eat there. We were all pretty hungry and after all, shopping IS hard work!  I started with a Sazerac, something to take the ache out of my legs and back. It was perfectly blended, a nice whisky flavor with just enough sweetness and the suggestion of licorice wafting up from the absinthe used to rinse the glass. I was pleased. My sister-in-law loves a Margarita. Theirs was done using a nice silver tequila, overall a crisp citrus cocktail that I found refreshing.

My NYC Makeup Artist ordered something called the “Black Island,” it was a Johnny Walker black label with a hint of lavender. It was evocative of elsewhere, and pretty tasty. Overall I’d say that much to my surprise, Lark Creek has a kick a$$ bar.

I had plans to dine out again in a few hours, so I wanted to keep my appetite intact. With that in mind, I opted for a Shrimp Louie salad, which seemed the perfect solution to my hunger, while allowing me room to manage a heavier meal later than evening. It was a good Louie, simple with a great dressing, and nice, crunchy lettuce. Fresh fresh fresh. I have to say fresh is much more the norm than it was when I was a kid and everything was pre-packaged and pre-made, even a lot of the components of restaurant food were pre-fab. I am, after all, a member of the TV dinner generation.

A few of us tried the Garlic potato soup, which was also simple and quite good. I loved the taste of it I tried. My NYC daughter and sis-in-law tried the Cowboy burger, which was a nice, fat traditional burger. It came with a healthy serving of french fries. Standard American fare but good. My niece had the Caesar salad. The grad student had a pulled pork sandwich.

The food at Lark Creek Steak was steady comfort food. It was nothing unusual, but what they offered was done really well. The drinks were really outstanding. So, if you’re in the mall, and you need a bite, go for it. Check it out, and Bon Appetit!

Lark Creek Steak
845 Market Street
4th floor, Westfield Mall
San Francisco, CA
(415) 593-4100

http://www.larkcreek.com/larkcreek_steak/index.html

LALIME'S Berkeley ~ a marvelous night for a Moondance

"And time yet for a hundred indecisions, And for a hundred visions and revisions, Before the taking of a toast and tea." t.s. eliot

~

My Better Half and I arrived at Lalime’s a little early for our assignation — set to meet up with a pair of old friends we hadn’t seen in almost twenty years. We were scheduled to meet them at 5:30, but it was about 5:20 when we walked up the ramp to Lalime’s. Though the restaurant wasn’t open for business yet, the staff were kind enough to admit us, seating us at the bar while they prepared our table. The BH and I each took a stool in the bar while we perused the drink menu. I thought a drink might pass the time and calm my unexpected set of nerves.

I hadn’t seen Carl since just after my father’s funeral, so I was excited to reconnect. An evening chatting about summer days spent boating along the waterways of the Sacramento River Delta seemed appealing. As we waited, I ordered myself a treat called the Leopop and the BH ordered something they had titled the Spicy Frenchman. My Leopop was a mixture of Raspberry Vodka and a splash of Limoncello in ginger ale, with a touch of Absinthe to give just a nice hint of licorice. A twist of lemon rind finished it off. The strongest flavors in the drink were this wonderful lemony /licorice combination, but it also had a nice after-hint of sweet raspberry. The Better Half’s Frenchman consisted of St. Germain, Hanger One, spiced pear and lime juice. It was tangy but not bitter, featuring a fairly herbal flavor profile.

By ten-minutes-to-six our guests had still failed to materialize, and I was beginning to think something wasn’t right. Though I had a small lingering hope that we’d merely gotten our signals crossed on the timing, no one was answering the phone at their home so it was beginning to appear they had forgotten altogether. I grieved for a moment at an opportunity missed.

At this point we decided to enjoy the evening as a date night. Now seated at our table, we continued to enjoy our drinks, while forging ahead with our orders. We let the waitress know that while our company might appear in the next ten minutes or so, we were no longer certain they were coming. It was about 6:10, and there just wasn’t any conclusion other than we’d gotten our wires crossed. While I had confirmed the date weeks ago, my friend Carl is one of those free spirits who needs a bit of prodding to be in any given place at a specific time. I chided myself that knowing this, I should have called again closer to the date, in order to remind him of our upcoming engagement.

I figured we could reschedule in a few weeks or so. Make it an opportunity to try another on my list of dinner-only restaurants in the Oakland / Berkeley area. Bright side. For those of you who follow my blog, this Carl is the same guy who used to spin pizzas for me back in the glory days of Granata’s Pizzeria.

The staff was amazingly patient throughout my little drama. Kind even. The BH and I had now ordered our hors d’oeuvres, and I’d ordered a second drink. I was still a bit of a stress puddle. The Leopop is both delicious and calm-inducing. Nice how food can calm us, entertain us, help us pass the time, even when time seems boundless because we’re waiting for something big. My Better Half and I continued our meal. The staff reassured us that if anyone joined us, there would still be time to order them dinner. I really appreciated the sensitivity shown by the waitstaff on this visit.

The waitress brought us an Amouse Bouche from the chef, which was a tiny shooter of an absolutely delightful pancetta & broccoli soup. It was thick and hearty, clinging tenaciously to the glass when I tried to drink it down. Delicious. Chunks of broccoli and buttery bacon were swirling together in this soothing emulsion of salty goodness. Really made me want more. Funny how beginning to eat can calm a person. I was beginning to let go of my disappointment, allowing them to clear it away along with the tiny bits of chunky soup that still lined the inside of that tiny glass.

The BH and I might have over-ordered a bit. Anxious to try the food at Lalime’s for what felt like ages, we couldn’t decide which of the offerings we wanted the most and so requested several. The first to arrive at our table was the Maine Lobster Cake. When I hear the word lobster, something primal happens in my head. Lalime’s take on the dish was a lovely, moist, patty of lobster — crusted over with a delicate, savory breading.

The seasonings in the meat were such that each bite became somewhat aromatic when taken in the mouth, its flavors flitting about the palate like tiny little butterflies, each carrying a different scent or sensation. Blissful. On the platter was a selection of various ingredients meant to be mingled in each or any bite, to enhance the taste of buttery lobster. When added, the Satsuma tangerine was a hint of cool citrus breeze; the fennel added a slightly licorice air to the bite; the yellow curry aioli gave its bites a fatty smoke aftertaste. Any or all could be infused with the other ingredients, allowing the various components to sneak across the palate in a cacophony of flavors. Every mouthful of this dish was sheer perfection.

I looked up from my dish to view again the large plate glass window that fronts the room our table is situated in. I had been checking occcasionally throughout the early portion of our meal on the chance our expected dinner companions might still show up. As I look away, my husband says “Isn’t that Carl in the window?” I see someone peering inside, but with the sunlight behind his figure, I cannot be sure. Yet only moments later I hear the familiar “Hey Ange” and Carl comes bounding down the stairs into our dining room. He’s that kind of guy. When Carl arrives, he makes an entrance. I think he picked it up from hanging with my father. That or they were just kindred spirits all along. He’d been working late and had indeed gotten his signals crossed, just as I had suspected. But we had managed to connect after all. I could hear Van Morrison’s Moondance begin to play, source music for the flood of memories in my head.

Carl joined us shortly before his lovely wife arrived to bring us to four. We began to catch up over a beautiful plate of Hudson Valley foie gras, which was a messy oily madness of delicious tasty goodness. A perfect dish for this messy crazy delight of an evening. The Chef’s take on foie gras was a two-fer: one version a chilled foie with sauterne, accompanied with a moussed raspberry gastrique; the second seared foie with a carmelized granny smith apple and a black-pepper caramel.

Actually getting a bite of the foie into one’s mouth proved a challenge. It was messy to eat, but each forkfull was a stellar variation of flavor profiles. The natural browned crunch of the apple mingling with the black pepper caramel. The raspberry over the chilled meat a nice pop of sweet and savory. Both these things drizzled over the meat made it sweet, but lightly so. The savory fatty taste of the meat itself still present and asserting itself. Delicious.

Once they had cleared the foie we ordered a bottle of wine and shortly received our mains. Everyone but me had the Rack of Lamb. You can see it was pink in the middle, perfectly done with that roasted fatty outside that comes naturally in the cooking process. They seemed to love it. I had a dish the chef called a Prime Rib of Pork. It was a thick slab of moist pork with a honey mustard glaze. The meat came with a glorious mustard fruit chutney, and some nice little roasted rosemary tom thumb carrots and pickled beets.

The pork meat was extremely moist (difficult with pork) and the tang of the glaze kept it juicy. Actually made my mouth water as I ate it, which is a nice trick for pork. The pickled beets were likewise tasty.

At this point Carl ordered a Sambuca, a primarily licorice-flavored liquer,. Sambuca is an Italian tradition, it is meant to be lighted while in the glass, with three coffee beans in the liquid, then once the flame has gone out, consumed while still hot. The scent of the licorice, and other ingredients becomes as much aroma as liquid in the glass, and taking a sip is something of a multi-sensory experience. It was delicious, and brought me crashing back to years prior and drinks with my father in Granata’s bar.

For dessert, we had a Lemon souffle, which was a light airy lemony breeze of a dish, puffy and airy as a souffle is meant to be. We also had a Pot de creme, tonight the flavor was butterscotch with a hint of salt across the top, which really played out well in the mouth. For any of you who have yet to try a caramel or butterscotch pudding with a smattering of rock salt, get to it. It is a spectacular flavor profile and I can guarantee you will enjoy it. The last dessert we tried was the Brandied chocolate ganache cake which was easily one of the prettiest desserts I have ever had. The artistry of the little trees of chocolate laid over the cake itself. Brilliant and inspired and delicious.

The meal was a success in spite of its rocky beginnings. We reminisced, sharing joint memories of those days on the water with dad.  We cerainly ate well, with Lalime’s definitely living up to and beyond its reputation. The thoughtfulness and patience of the servers with our at times wacky party, was really generous and allowed the evening to unfold into a memorable one.

 
So definitely check it out.  I will be back myself without question. Bon Appetit!
 
Lalimes' Restaurant
1329 Gilman Street

Albany, CA 94706-2450
(510) 527-9838
http://www.lalimes.com/
 
table size: adequate
sound / noise: one bell (very quiet ambiance, except perhaps for US)
service: amazing, attentive, professional

FRESCA ~ Peruvian Ceviche (just like Grandma used to make)

Except that my Grandmother was Italian, and never made ceviche in her life.  I don't think I even knew what ceviche was until maybe a few years ago.  My oldest daughter is a quarter Peruvian, but I digress.

I ended up in this little gem in the West Portal district of San Francisco through the suggestion of a friend.  Thus, while it's a find I cannot take credit for, it's one I really enjoyed. We were joined there by said friend (who lives close by) and her lovely daughter, in town on break from studies at Harvard.  This friend is aware that the BH and I have become endlessly fascinated by various food establishments, and in her words, this was the "most interesting restaurant" she could think of to bring us to.  How thoughtful of her to make such an excellent choice.

When I think Party of Four, I think in terms of quantities of appetizers!  I mean, that's enough people to order at least three apps, right?  We arrived hungry, and a few minutes early for our 6:30 reservations.  The place was pretty full.  There were only two tables, one right in the doorway, and a nice big six top in the back with comfy banquette seating.  Fortunately, they were kind enough to allow us the slightly bigger table away from the door, which after my near refrigeration at Sala Thai, I was prepared to argue for, but thankfully there was no need.  Victorious in my non-battle, seated and with a menu, I began my meal with a glass of wine.  The BH and our companion shared a pitcher of sangria.  I ordered a Malbec, but the waiter said they had just run out and he offered me a blended Malbec.  I found the compromise quite tasty.

Our companion was interested in sharing a platter of ceviche. They have quite a few selections of ceviche at Fresca.  It would seem to be a specialty of the house.  Some of you might remember I am always on the hunt for ceviche that can compare with the amazing taste treat manufactured at Tamarindo in Oakland.  I wasn't sure this would live up to my expectations, but life is after all an adventure.  I'm always willing to try something new. 

Fresca has maybe eight different ceviches, all prepared on the spot.  Our companion has a soy allergy, so he offered to make them soy free and informed us they can be made to order.  Though they have sampler plates of up to five of the multitude of offerings, we decided three was sufficient to try on this occasion.  We ordered their Trio of Ceviche - which resulted in a platter containing three different ceviches with a nice offering of sides.  The first we tried was the Ceviche 5 Elementos (described as the tradicional peruvian ceviche; halibut, lime juice, rocoto, red onion, sea salt)  The next was the Ceviche Mixto (menu: squid, halibut, prawn, clam, cilantro, red onion, rocoto aji, lime juice, sea salt), and finally we had a Salmon Ceviche  (salmon, passion-fruit, lime, pink peppercorns, cucumber shiso leaf, andean corn, cancha).  I was impressed.  In my mind Ceviche must be prepared carefully or it's either too fishy or too chewy.  I've had ceviche that was only edible, some that is good, but few that are actually great.  This was delicious. The sides were yams and (I believe) some lovely pickled mushrooms.  The blending of the savory salmon with the yam meat was the most stunning.  It was a perfect study in contrasts.  My mouth rang with the gentle savory meat of the fish, the citrus of the ceviche pickling sauce and the soft sweet cream of the yam.  The fish was tart, well-seasoned and extremely moist. An absolute hit.

The next appetizer we tried was a dish called Camarones Chícama, or coconut-crusted jumbo tiger prawns.  They sat atop a black bean salad, with what they described as a lucuma-orange glaze.  No idea what lucama is, but these shrimp were cooked beautifully, and the crunchy-coconut sweet outer shell soaked up the glaze, the meat inside was moist and laced with a hint of the seasonings it had absorbed from its marinade.  Combined with the beans and corn salad beneath, and the tang of the dressing... another impressive offering.  At this point, I'm thinking this place was on a roll.

The last of the appetizers we sampled were called Tequeños, which though dubbed a fried wonton filled with shrimp and crab cream cheese, was more of an eggroll filled with plain soft cream cheese.  The promised flavors of crab and shrimp did not properly materialize, bur rather were a tiny presence, sadly overwhelmed by the cheese.  The crust of the wonton was slightly greasy and was too heavy for the filling.  It might have worked if there was some texture from the crab and shrimp, to cut a bit of that cream chees, but the only thing I tasted was a mouthful of cream cheese.  The dipping sauce, (an lovely light aji amarillo aioli) added some tang, but not enough.  I found this dish not well thought out, and not as flavorful as I’d have liked. At least the side salad that came with it had an lovely chunky tomato salsa in a perfectly seasoned vinaigrette that was quite good.

The BH ordered a Chupe, which is a creamy seafood chowder.  The menu listed its ingredients (other than the seafoods) as andean corn, potatoes, rice, green peas, aji panca, poached egg.  When it arrived the poached egg sat on top ominously (the BH is not normally a fan, though I am) but to my amazement he gave it a try and he loved it.  The soup was full of various fresh fish, mussels, shrimp, everything from the ocean but the kitchen sink. 

I ordered a variation on the seafood stew, I think it was called Picante de Mariscos.  Mine also had a creamy base and much of the same seafood, but it was much spicier.  This dish was the sort of thing I dream about at night.  I've often written how much I love heat in my food and this was hot.  Really spicy, but not so much so that it made the dish difficult to eat, or wiped out the other flavors. It was spice perfection. Every bite was creamy, with the flavors dancing on the palate until the heat made it's appearance, like the finishing kick at the end of a jig.  There was just a tiny bit of sweetness blended into the broth at the base, but the dish was mostly a savory one.  Though it was slightly reminiscent of a curried coconut broth, it was not exactly a curry, nor was it coconut flavored.  It was unique and absolutely delicious. All the seafood was remarkably moist and tender as butter. Not a bit overcooked or tough.  I have never had calamari that tender.  Never.

Both our companion and her lovely daughter had the Pimiento Relleno, a bright red bell pepper stuffed with a rich quinoa vegetable risoto, manchego cheese, and asparagus, and topped off with an aji amarillo cream.  I tasted it and the ricy filling was good. 
We left happy and satiated.  I loved my stew so much, that, even though I was stuffed, I just kept eating until there was a sad, empty bowl before me.  You know that feeling you get when something you really loved eating was completely gone?  Sadness.  But a good kind.

I know it's a bit off the Oakland trail, but if you're hungry and in the City, check it out.  They've got several locations, and I'm guesing the food is as good at all of them.  The menu is pretty much the same.  However, if you've been to one of the others, let me know.  I know if you visit this one, you won't be sorry.  Bon Appetit!

Fresca (West Portal)
24 West Portal
San Francisco, CA
415-759-8087
http://www.frescasf.com/

Noise level: fairly 'busy' might be hard to carry on a conversation for those with difficulty hearing
Table size: adequate
Cost: Reasonable (Soups/Stews 18, apps 12 -ish)

MISS PEARL'S JAM HOUSE - Pusser Up and Kiss Me!

By way of a little Oakland History, Miss Pearl's Jam House on the wharf in Jack London Square, is located in the building that used to house Jack's Bistro (also named for Jack London, as many things are in that part of town).  Jack London, Oakland's adopted native son, was a seaman and author who spent much of his time on the Square during the turn of the previous Century. The First and Last Chance, is a watering hole he frequented that remains to this day, a favorite of tourists.  When Jack's (the Restaurant) originally opened in this location on the Square it was one of the earliest additions to the first wave of a commercial and culinary rebirth of Jack London Square, which over the years had fallen into disrepair.  Since then, many new additions have come and gone in this part of Oakland.   Though she has spent much of her time as San Francisco's overlooked and underappreciated step-sister, Oakland is a City with a character and personality all her own, so it has been wonderful to watch its renaissance.

The building that houses Miss Pearl's is next to the site of the old Waterfront Hotel.  I remember walking past it as a child, on our way to eat at the Sea Wolf that sits out over the water.  The building is in a nice locale, also right on the water, with a beautiful view.  We went there for lunch on the Tuesday before Christmas. 

Whenever I eat at Jack London Square, I can't help but remember my childhood.  From the time I was three or four until I was eleven or so, I visited one of the restaurants here for dinner with my Grandparents almost weekly.  We ate at what was then the Sea Wolf (now Scott's Seafood Restaurant), or the Grotto (now Kincaids).  Everyone knew my grandfather, and we were always ushered to our table with a great deal of attention.  At Scott's I would always order the same thing.  The shrimp cocktail and a filet of sole.  Grandma always let me have a Shirley Temple, as she ordered a Grasshopper for herself.  Though the setting is different, the environment is unchanged.  The view of sailboats slowly leaving the estuary for the open Bay, the bustle of the wharf and the smell of Jack London's mighty blue ocean.  All these things I have come to know and love, then and now.  It is easy to feel the spirit of Jack himself when dining on the Square.

I like Jack London Square and its history.  It's a charming place to eat, and Miss Pearl's has some interesting items on the menu, many of which feature the flavors of the Caribbean.  We began our meal with cocktails, and I have to say, the mixed drinks at Pearl's are awesome.  They are freshly blended by a skilled mixologist and it shows.  My husband and I are both fond of one called the Pusser’s Painkiller.  It's a creamy combination of citrus and coconut --- tangy and refreshing at once.  The coconut gives it an eggnog-like quality, and the tang comes from a bit of fresh citrus.  It's a creamy sip of heaven with a kick.  Another of the house specials is the Hemingway Daquiri, which is a more robust, MAN drink, cut with just a dash of lime.  One can imagine Papa H consuming such a drink while smoking a cigar on a veranda of a summer afternoon.  Since Papa H himself was not there, our Partner in Food Crimes enjoyed one on this occasion.

Our cocktails were rapidly followed by bowls of steaming hot soup.  Our PFC has a thing about the temperature of soup.  It has to be hot, not merely warm, and certainly not tepid.  While I'm not as soup-temp-obsessed as my mate, I do prefer my soup hot when it's cold outside.  I think it's a childhood sense memory.  Hot soup = comfort.  Or perhaps it is as simple as soups warms me up.  Either way, the soup today was a lovely Cream of Garlic and Potato Soup, that had been blended or riced really well into a smooth concoction of potato-ey goodness with a lovely topping of deep fried leeks that gave leant a terrific crunch to the spoon, for a great contrast in textures.  The soup itself had a good deal of flavor, and was well seasoned.  Its "backbone" was the potato, but there was a noticeable kick of pepper mixed in with garlic and onion to balance it out.  We all enjoyed every last drop.  Kudos to the Chef.

I forgot to mention that we also had Sweet Potato Fries with our cocktails.  Sweet Potato Fries are becoming more common these days, but I really like the way they do them here.  They are slender and crispy, well cooked and seasoned, served with sides of  spicy chipotle aioli and bbq catsup.  Yum!

For our main our PFC and I ordered the Grilled Jerk-Marinated Chicken Breast.   We both really seek heat, and whenever a place lands that delectable combination of "sweet heat," we are going to come away very happy campers. The chicken in this case was spiced to perfection with a crunchy golden brown skin wrapping the still moist but not undercooked meat of the chicken breast. The starch was a lovely mixture of rice and tiny, delicate beans that finished off the plate quite nicely.  When a nice sauce is to be consumed, nothing carries it to the palate better than a bed of well prepared rice.  The flavor is absorbed and seemingly multiplied by the rice as it makes its way to the mouth.  Good times.  We both loved the heat in the habanero reduction, and thought it mingled perfeclty with the slightly sweet jerk.

The BH ordered the Bahamian Burger.  It's a nice juicy ground beef patty on a soft, sweet Challah Bun.  The condiments are traditional with a twist, grilled onions and Island-spiced Catsup.  The burger itself was large, and the BH said it was cooked perfectly to order, which in this case was ‘medium rare.’  He loved it.

We declined the offer of dessert, although tempting. Some days one has to leave something undone.  All the more reason to go back.


Miss Pearl's is a nice place for a tasty meal with a good view.  The cuisine is not necessarily 'inspiring' but it is solidly prepared and the cocktails are stellar.  check it out, and Bon Appetit!
Miss Pearl's Jam House
1 Broadway
Oakland, CA  94111
(510) 444-7171
http://www.misspearlsjamhouse.com/

Table size: Adequate
Noise Level: Excellent, sound is well-muted.
Cost: moderately expensive
Dining time: we are able to be in and out in under an hour if need be