OAKLAND STORIES: PICÁN - Part Two: A Southern Dream Realized

Michael LeBlanc - Owner, Picán Restaurant, Oakland

At the time Picán Restaurant first opened its doors, owner Michael LeBlanc was taking a pretty big leap of faith. Opening a high-end restaurant smack in the middle of downtown Oakland at the height of an economic downturn takes genius, courage and, some might say, a big dollop of crazy. Whatever the combination of bravery and/or foolhardiness that might have conspired to bring Picán to fruition, the restaurant has been successful. It has weathered the depths of the recession, which means that people who were choosing much more carefully, chose to spend their precious entertainment dollars at Picán.

LeBlanc has made a name for himself and his eatery within the city, spearheading events that bring the community together and introduce people to the concept that Oakland is a hot spot for dining and a desired place to socialize. Picán has served as the flagship for Oakland’s newfound possibilities, attracting a myriad of patrons from within Oakland and around the East Bay. In addition, Picán is rapidly becoming a destination restaurant for the residents of San Francisco, which is no small feat. Getting people to cross The Bridge in the other direction says something about the restaurant that little else could say. Picán offers a beautiful ambience, reliably excellent food and, perhaps most importantly to its owner, a place to mingle with a mix of folk from all walks of life, a perfect mirror of the city that houses it.

When one asks LeBlanc to talk about his restaurant, he lights up – a man animated by his passion. Pican is for him far more than a business; it is an outward expression of his contribution to the betterment of society at large. It is a place that not only serves the remarkable food of the South with flair and artistry, but, more importantly to LeBlanc, that serves as a meeting place for a diverse group of man- (and woman-) kind. It is no accident that Picán seems to have slipped effortlessly into the role of Happening Meeting Place. LeBlanc made it so with a unique combination of vision and determination.



I recently attended a Bartending Competition Event hosted by Picán and Grand Marnier, and open to all female bartenders in the Bay. There the melting pot success of LeBlanc’s world view was effectively highlighted. Standing in a room humming with humanity, I found myself glancing around the lounge to behold a rainbow reflection of Oakland and East Bay society. A man sporting a soul patch laughing over a shared joke with an Asian woman; a cluster of sartorially resplendent Church Ladies savoring a round of cocktails; tight denim- and leather-clad college girls enjoying the vibe at the bar. Like a perfectly balanced cocktail, Picán seems naturally infused with diversity. Perhaps it is a reflection of the times. Maybe Oakland has at last grown up and come into her own, becoming the all-encompassing city she was always meant to be. Maybe it is evidence of LeBlanc’s subtle skill at showing people from so many walks of life a good time. Or maybe, it’s a little of both.



Table Prepped for Bartending Competition



When speaking with LeBlanc, it is the diversity of the clientele that really sets him glowing. Born in New Orleans, and having lived around the world, Michael LeBlanc is proud of the iconic gathering place he has created. LeBlanc and I are both children of the sixties, and, as such, he shared with me the joy he takes in watching this mesh of culture and experience. Watching people of all races and backgrounds fall into easy companionship — strangers and friends alike — LeBlanc and I cannot help but recall the dreams of our youth growing up in the turbulent sixties. The hope was instilled then that some day we might indeed overcome the scars of this country’s birth. I have to say the first time I walked into the restaurant for dinner, I felt the same way. It was like the dream had arrived. LeBlanc believes it is here to stay.

 Though he leaves much of the food to Chef DuPuis, LeBlanc, as a true Southerner, has a strong idea of the food he wishes to serve, and he is never afraid to speak up. He knows the tastes of his own upbringing, the richness of flavors, the specific foods that recall for him the best the region has to offer. To that end he insisted on having a variety of fried chicken on the menu. While skeptical, Chef Dean complied and the rest was history.

LeBlanc also shared with me a story of the origin of my personal favorite, a "fried peach pie" that was on the menu the summer right after Picán opened. At one point he found himself discussing Heubig’s pies with Dupuis. Heubig’s is a freshly baked version of a fried pie turnover packaged and sold throughout the South. Michael LeBlanc wanted his kitchen to produce an upscale variety. LeBlanc jokingly told me of his conversation with the kitchen and his efforts to convey how the pie was shaped and prepared. Not a cook, he guessed that the edges of the half-moon crescents would be forced into closure with a fork, much like my grandmother’s apple pie. "I don’t know how to make ‘em, but I know what they’re supposed to taste like!" LeBlanc joked. He is indeed a man with a hand in everything.

LeBlanc’s plan seems to be to bring them in with the food, give them great service, then wow them with the camaraderie of his great nightlife scene. When the company is good and the experience is unique, folks will naturally want to return for more. The decor of the restaurant is welcoming: open and sweeping, it’s lines evoking something very old and Southern, yet clearly modern at the same time.

Picán’s high ceilings create a sense of the columnar architecture throughout the South, reinforced by perfectly placed high doorways, while its comfortable overstuffed lounge furniture would fit perfectly within the hippest Manhattan Club. When glancing at the high doors at one end of the dining room, one is reminded intensely of the Old South — a whispered rustle of heavily starched hoop skirts whirling in a cotillion waltz. At the same time, the bulk of the restaurant’s decor is quite chic and current. LeBlanc has used shades of copper, a buttery tan and a brown that is so rich it appears almost black, all of which mingle to give the restaurant a distinctly urban feel. LeBlanc calls the decor "Modern Antebellum," which, in my mind, is a perfect description for conjuring a mental image of Picán’s interior. From its inception, Picán was intended to be a place that evoked Southern charm, Southern flavors and Southern hospitality, while exorcising the more unpleasant ghosts of her past.

Picán is a lovely place to visit. Familiar and welcoming, inspiring and exciting. Frankly, my dear, they had me at "Fried Peach Pie."

Picán Restaurant

2295 Broadway
Oakland, CA 94612
(510) 834-1000
http://www.picanrestaurant.com/

Oakland Stories: PICÁN - Part One: Tasting the South

Since early in her existence, Oakland has been viewed as San Francisco’s awkward and somehow less-desirable little sister. You know the type, the mouthy chick in the room with the chip on her shoulder, sporting a tramp stamp and holding a beer in one hand and a cigarette in the other. In reality, Oakland is far more complicated beauty, whose rich culture and history are well worth a second look. Sure, she may have her moments of urban chaos, but she is a girl who is definitely worth getting to know — smarter than she looks and with a lot to offer the right suitor. If you think you know everything there is to know about Oakland, you’re wrong.

In the past several years, there has been a cultural renaissance in Oakland, the genesis of which was the opening of several new restaurants. If you are as curious as I was to know why some of these restaurants are here, what they plan to offer us and whether they’ll stick around for a second date, read on.

Among Oakland’s new residents are Pican, Tamarindo, Camino, Commis, Plum — it’s a rapidly growing list — and each place has a personality all its own. Oakland’s newly thriving restaurant industry and the accompanying accolades to the City they’ve brought along with them, has been a genuine thrill for this lifetime resident to witness. Watching each new establishment arrive and begin to mesh with the fabric of Oakland is a joy. In the past several years the blooming restaurant industry in Oakland has begun to reshape the way the rest of the Bay Area, and gradually the rest of the world, views my City. When it comes to gastronomic offerings, Oakland’s profile now rivals that of San Francisco and Berkeley for exquisite dining, fine and otherwise. In an effort to document Oakland’s journey to the culinary Big Time, I decided to touch base with a few of the restaurants that have had a part in the City’s transformation, conducting a series of interviews with the movers and shakers in the industry that is reshaping the way the world-at-large views the city of my birth.

Tasting the South

One of the first to open the floodgates, Picán Restaurant, seemed a very good place to start. I recently sat down with Picán’s Executive Chef, Dean Dupuis, and owner, Michael LeBlanc, to chat with them about how they view Picán’s role in the revival of Oakland and their part in the “Uptown” movement.

Dean Dupuis - Executive Chef, Picán Restaurant, Oakland



Duck Ham over Cornmeal Biscuit

 Chef Dean Dupuis is the real deal. An affable guy who enjoys his craft, Chef Dean was generous with his time and forthcoming with his answers. Chef told us that when Picán opened in March 2009, he was among the first to be hired. As such he has shared this journey with owner Michael LeBlanc from day one, and the two are a formidable team. In the beginning, Chef Dean and LeBlanc hammered out the design of the food that would be served together. In Chef’s own words “Michael gave me free reign when it came to developing the menu.  Anything that had to do with food was left to me, [though] Michael did have a few dishes he wanted to see. For instance, Michael wanted to put fried chicken on [the menu], and we went back and forth about that. I said “'Who is going to order fried chicken?' Come to find out, it is our most popular seller times two.”



Seared Foie Gras
& Pepper Jelly

 Dean went on to describe the cuisine at Picán as Contemporary Southern Food, reporting that Owner LeBlanc terms it “Paula Dean meets Alice Waters.” A self-taught Chef who learned food from others in the industry and the “school of life,” Dean also confesses to being a bit playful with the menu items offered. He gave as an example his Smoked Alligator Nachos, explaining that LeBlanc had asked him to find a way to include an alligator dish on the menu in an effort to incorporate even more traditional foods of the American South. Intended to be served as a bar-food item, the dish was originally titled “Smoked Alligator Natchez” as a play on “nachos.” Chef said that when patrons didn’t pick up on the joke he found himself having to tinker with the title. Another dish that did catch on right away with patrons was their Bayou Paté, a cheese and blue crab dip accompanied by house-made barbeque potato chips. The playfulness of the preparation and whimsy in the naming is something of which Chef Dean is extremely proud. It’s abundantly clear that Chef Dean is supported in his artistry by LeBlanc. In addition to the wonderful food, this sort of symbiotic teamwork may be one of the reasons Picán is finding a permanent spot in the hearts of its patrons.



Fried Green Tomatoes

 Both men evidenced a small frustration at those who insist on trying to buttonhole Picán into the “soul food” genre. Perhaps it is because Oakland has traditionally been a place where one could find good “soul food” offerings from the many of its residents who are southern transplants. But this is not what Picán offers, nor how it wishes to be defined. Rather both men see the restaurant as a broader sampling of every food one might sample below the Mason-Dixon line. As DuPuis put it “I wouldn’t categorize us as a 'soul food' place. It’s Contemporary Southern. We’ll do fried chicken; we’ll do ribs, but we’ll also do Bourbon marinated Salmon, which is really a much more California-oriented dish with a Southern flair in the Bourbon. We like to fuse Southern ingredients with a California spin to get a result that is unique to us.”
,


Pork Belly with Cola Caramel



DuPuis says that although he is dedicated to the food of the South, the restaurant also believes it is important to support local growers, so he sources as much local produce as he can. At the same time Picán supports the South by importing rarities from across the heart of Dixie. Recently Dean made a trip to New Orleans to meet with current White House Chef, Cristeta Comerford, New Orleans' own John Besh and other Chefs from across the Country, to explore ways to assist the local fishing industry in NoLa that had been affected by the spill. Chef Dean brings in most of Picán’s Blue Crab directly from New Orleans, so upon his return he made an effort to lend a hand to a New Orlinean adversely impacted by the oil spill by sharing his personal source for the delicacy with other Bay Area restaurants. His effort was successful, and Chef was able to directly impact the fisherman’s business for the better.

It is his willingness to go that extra mile in everything he does that makes Chef Dean Dupuis so impressive. While local sourcing is hugely important to him to help reduce Picán’s carbon footprint, so is obtaining the authentic ingredients that will give his food its regional character. Straddling that line is something Chef Dean seems to understand naturally, and his success at this balancing act is reflected in the nature of the food served. “I bring in my pork from Alabama. It’s the best pork I’ve ever had. Some things I’ve insisted on remaining Southern. I won’t use Dungeness Crab here, I feel Blue Crab is more representative of our vibe. [...] It’s a different texture, a different flavor. Dungeness Crab is great, but here [at Pican] Blue Crab is where it’s at [...] it feels Southern and that’s a big thing for me.”

Chef Dean loves living in Oakland. He loves the vibe, the diversity, the energy, and the access to a variety of great ingredients for his kitchen. Though Southern food will always be his first love, living in Oakland has brought him a new perspective on other flavors of regional cooking. When at home Chef confesses to eating and preparing the ethnic foods that are abundant here. “Vietnamese. Korean. Thai. Mexican. I find myself cooking them at home as well. Vietnamese is my latest down time passion.”



Scallops

 I’ll admit to some curiousity as to how Chef creates a new dish. I asked him whether it was the result of careful planning, happy accident, or a combination of both. His response: “Both! Absolutely! [...] Once in awhile, sometimes at staff meal, we’ll make something, we’ll just bang something out, and a flavor will hit and we’ll be like, 'we should try this in another form on the menu'. [...] I like to mix a lot of other cultures and cuisines into my food. I’ll put fish sauce in my Southern cooking. [...] I have a Pork Belly on the menu now that I make with coca-cola caramel glaze, but it’s a [Vietnamese] caramel. It’s made with a ginger, garlic, chiles, fish-sauce, so it’s a savory [...] then I add coca-cola, so it ends up being very Southern.”

When I asked Chef Dean what dream dish he wanted to add to the menu? “A month ago I would have said I wanted to put foie gras on the menu ---  but I just did. So now I do like a Southern foie gras. [...] In the South, Country Ham biscuits is a big thing. So I make “duck ham.” So that’s with the duck foie gras, which is seared [...] Then I make a ham biscuit, and put a little homemade mustard on a cornmeal biscuit [&] pepper jelly. [...] It’s fun. It’s Southern. It’s Upscale. It’s Picán.”

***
As it so happens, I dined at Picán the evening after the interview and was able to sample some of Chef Dean’s new dishes. The Foie Gras with Duck Ham Biscuits was mind-numbingly delicious. I am a huge fan of ham, biscuits, pepper jelly and foie gras, so the combination of them all in one dish was my idea of bliss. The BH had the Seared Sea Scallops. Inspired by Chef Dean’s talk of the South, I had two additional appetizers instead of a main: the Fried Green Tomatoes and the Pork Belly with the Caramel sauce. As you can see, good stuff!
 
Stay tuned for Part Two: A Southern Dream Realized, an interview with Owner Michael LeBlanc
 
Picán Restaurant
2295 Broadway
Oakland, CA 94612
(510) 834-1000
http://www.picanrestaurant.com/

ANGELINE'S LOUISIANA KITCHEN ~ Full-Throttle Authentic Southern Cooking

Hush Puppies

It was drawing near the end of May, and recently back from N’awlins, I found myself craving a plate of the deep South, more succinctly put, some spicy-good Barbeque Shrimp. I didn’t have time to stave off the wait at Brown Sugar Kitchen, which though worth the trouble, can still eat up a lunch hour pretty quickly. But — good news Bay Area diners — there can never be too many places serving up this tasty traditional platter. The world simply cannot have an excess of BBQ shrimp. ‘Nuff said!


Angeline’s Louisiana Kitchen is technically in Berkeley, but walking through the door was like stepping into New Orleans.  It’s Owner, Robert Volberg, had decided he wanted to open an eatery just before Katrina hit the coast to work her destruction on the placid people of the Gulf. The idea fomented further after Katrina left her mark, through a serendipitous meeting with a Chef by the name of Brandon Dubea, the two came up with a concept. Dubea was from Baton Rouge, Louisiana. They would join forces and bring authentic Louisiana cuisine to the Bay Area. It was the beginning of Angeline’s, which opened for business July 20, 2006.

Upon stepping into the restaurant, I gotta give ‘em an A in decor. The ambience of this place is pretty authentic New Orleans, Louisiana. The pictures, the paint, the eclectic semi-religious iconography dotting the walls. They’ve even got those signs that say “behave or leave” that can be found all over the south in one form or another.

Dungeness Crab Cakes

Our meal began, as it so often does, with ordering a lotta stuff. I never met I menu I was afraid to sample generously. Hell, isn’t that why they invented the treadmill? The first item to hit the table was a dish of Dungeness Crab Cakes. They were a taste treat. In N’awlins, they would have been Louisiana Blue Crabs, but here they were the more familiar Dungeness Crab. Both crabs are tasty and the preparation here was quite remarkable in its flavors and the remoulade served with the crab, while nicely enhanced with mustard, was not overwhelming. It really allowed the sweet meat to shine through. The meat itself was appropriately moist, and the crunch of the added arugula when it mingled with the crust of the fried cake was a really a nice touch. One of my favorite versions of this dish, and I’ve had dozens.

Voodoo (BBQ) Shrimp

Voodoo Shrimp ~ Now that’s what I’m talking about! There is nothing, nothing, nothing quite as scrumptiously delicious as a well-done plate of classic BBQ shrimp. There are a variety of takes on the dish, even in the South, but I prefer the rich, buttery, spicy and not overly “Worchestershire’d” version. I like the spiced butter to take the stage as it slathers it’s way over the shrimp in a marriage of the lightness of shrimp meat and the heavy, sexy, sauce that is sooo traditionally Southern. Paula Dean will tell you they like their butter, ya’ll, and with good reason. Sometimes there’s nothing that finishes a dish better. The shrimp here were shelled, and I prefer them to remain in the shells since it allows them to stay a bit moister in all that liquid, but it was a small point. The shrimp were really well cooked and covered in a good honest sauce. Can I get an Amen?

Mac 'n Cheese

Another treat was the Mac & Cheese. It was rich, thick and cheesy. When Mac & Cheese is baked right, you get that nice crispy surface that has been hard, then soft, then hardish-softish again on its outer surface. It’s delectable. It melts in the mouth, but finishes with the expected kiss of crunch from the little baked edges. Given that this result should be what cheese does naturally, one would think you’d always get the same result. But cha don’t. Some places the cheese is runny and kinda lifeless, like it’s spirit went dead in the oven. Maybe it’s the combination of the cheeses, or maybe it’s the skill of the chef, but I know when it’s good, and this was. I knew as soon as I bit into the crunch of the top against the soft melted cheese and noodles. The result was enticing.

Hush Puppies - These were a wonderment of corny goodness. These amazing cornbread ‘donuts’ were fried and served with a honey butter that was just the right amount of sweet. The corn meal itself was coarse, it had a nice grainy texture to it and these scrumptious little dumplings were fried up to just the right outer crunch. Knowing how to run a fryer, another Southern tradition mastered.

Buttermilk Fried Chicken

The BH had the Buttermilk Fried Chicken - which presented itself as lovely fat, hot strips of fried chicken filets in the most amazing batter. The chicken inside that batter was properly moist and tender, the outside crisp and hot from the fryer. Accompanied with a lush, velvety Tasso ham cream gravy, a bite of that fried chicken dipped in the peachy colored sauce was a bite of fried-food satisfaction. I sampled the ginger-vanilla sweet potato mash that was served on the side and it was likewise down south tasty. The Blue lake green beans however, were a bit overdone, but still well-seasoned.

Red Beans & Rice

I absolutely loved their Red Beans and Rice. When I was a kid, my grandfather used to do this thing with red beans. He’d cook ‘em for days with bacon and green onion. They’d melt into this heavenly paste of beanie, bacony, bee-liciousness. Whatever they’re doing here, they’re leaving it long enough to grow some serious flavors. Right on.

Gumbo

Our PFC had a bowl of Gumbo, which he kindly allowed me to taste. I found it peppery, with a hearty consistency and a lovely balance of seasonings — the andouille, tasso ham, & shrimp gumbo was served hot, which to him is a huge must. It was also really good. Another dish served up at Angeline’s that was authentic to the South.

We ended the meal by sharing a Bananas Foster Bread Pudding, w/Bourbon Whipped Cream. Just thinking about the flavors in that dessert right now is causing me to salivate. This may quite simply be the best bread pudding ever made, with the possible exception of the Bread Pudding Souffle at Commander’s. The “bananas foster” portion of this dish turned out to be banana cooked into the bread. Coupled with the traditional brown sugar caramelized into butter (a combination of liquid heaven which tastes like nothing else) the banana bread and the custard of the pudding, well, all of these mixed together made the very best pudding ever. I think I’m going back. Like now.

Bananas Foster Bread Pudding

So if you enjoy the rich, hearty flavors of the South, Check It OUT! Southern cooking is heavy, rich, savory and full-out. There is nothing held back in its preparation. It’s like life thrown at you full throttle served up on a plate. Rocks my world.   Bon Appetit! (and have fun ya'll)

Angeline’s Louisiana Kitchen
2261 Shattuck Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94704-1432
(510) 548-6900
http://www.angelineskitchen.com/

BROWN SUGAR KITCHEN - Southern Cooking Comes to West Oakland

Beignets @ Brown Sugar Kitchen

Oakland’s bad girl reputation was something I spent much of my youth refuting. Even now, I can hear myself explaining my hometown to others who pictured her a squalid, dangerous crime-ridden blight on San Francisco’s shiny image. An image that could be envied, apparently from a nice, safe distance across the Bay. Travelers felt San Francisco was the place to be, not Oakland. Yet I insisted they were wrong. Oakland had her charms. She was pretty, with a lovely natural lake in the center of town, she had verdant green hills. She was a nice place to live, with her sleepy streets and homes rich in architectural history, including Art Deco, Victorian, Beaux Arts, — period revivals of Italian Renaissance, Spanish Eclectic, and English cottage. Oakland wasn’t at all how they pictured her, I insisted. They should just give her a chance.

For years my hometown’s image remained eclipsed by that Glittering City by the Bay that lay just over the Bay Bridge, the one where all the tourists would leave their hearts. Oakland’s grimy reputation as its slattern little step-sister grew, strengthened by her struggling economy and waning business districts. Oakland sat on the wrong and dangerous side of that big bridge waiting like a wallflower at a dance waits for attention, her questionable reputation keeping suitors at a distance. Low expectations kept too many from exploring her streets, experiencing her landscapes, or exposing themselves to her wealth of cultures and vibrant history. But that was then. Brown Sugar Kitchen is now.

The 1989 quake took down the Cypress Structure that ran through West Oakland, leveling the freeway and ending lives. It was horrific. But that quake opened a door. The citizens of the neighborhood stood up and demanded that Oakland acknowledge them, allowing the area around Cypress Street to be re-imagined and renamed Mandela Parkway. Out of the ugly, the depressing, the smothered— came something new and alive and very, very Oakland.

Bar-be-Que Shrimp
Mouthwatering!

In fact, the times they are more than “a changing.” Now Oakland herself stands erect and head held high she too demands acknowledgment. She is a City on the verge of a serious rebirth. She’s got game. Her foodie scene is impressive and varied, rivaling that of her Big Sister. New restaurants pop up everywhere, and these eateries offer fare that easily matches what can be had in that “other” city on the water, and while some of them may seem to have appeared out of nowhere — they didn’t. Oakland has been working for quite some time to redefine herself. City leaders have courted new businesses, and her restauranteurs not only have a point of view, they have attitude. Be they saloon, bistro, café or white-table-clothed restaurant, these eateries are all young and hip and spirited, possessing a sense of artistry and passion unique to the city of my birth. One among the best of these is the Brown Sugar Kitchen, a lively breakfast and lunch spot located right there along Mandela Parkway in West Oakland. Yeah, you heard me.

Cornbread
Brown Sugar Kitchen

When she arrived in Oakland, BSK’s owner/chef Tanya Holland brought with her an “imagination de cuisine” that is uniquely her own. Informed by her African-American heritage, a lifetime of exposure to a broad variety of foods and her classical training in France, she has seen the inside of many of the world’s best kitchens, resulting in food with a deeply inspired background that goes well beyond “Soul Food” into something transformative.

Her menu is essentially Southern, her dishes all prepared with that incomparable hospitality of spirit that is the defining component of Southern cooking and Soul Food. There is a deep tradition in African-American kitchens to express love with food and Tanya speaks this language fluently, in simple flavors and without pretense. Her cooking is authentic, and it is delicious. I swear I could taste the love in every bite. Those who line up on any given day to compete for a table and a meal apparently agree.

Fried Chicken & Cornmeal Waffle

We began our meal with an order of beignets, on the menu as a lunch special on the day we were there. Now I know beignets, having just returned from a lovely junket to New Orleans, where they can be found in abundance and variety. Brown Sugar’s were lighter than a traditional beignet, fluffy and airy as little fried sugar clouds. Fresh and hot from the fryer, they melted on the tongue almost as readily as cotton candy. The powdered sugar sprinkled generously over the square donuts, blending nicely with the traces of hot grease from the fryer. Hallelujah!

Brown Sugar Kitchen's
Gumbo

I then experienced a gumbo unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. Gumbos I’ve tried elsewhere are generally fatty, with a heavy broth. Not so at BSK. The broth was light, not at all greasy and much to my delight not overly laden with okra. What fat it contained was flavorful, adding to the richness of the tastes. Its flavors were abundant and complimentary, each ingredient working with the others to make a perfection of a whole. The vegetables within had lovely textures, with an unanticipated happy little crunch in every bite, nothing overcooked here. Delightfully spiced, there was just enough pepper to get my attention, but not so much as to overwhelm anyone less spice-happy than I. Savory, strong — perfection.

Cornbread is one of my biggest weaknesses. I cannot resist good cornbread, and Brown Sugar’s cornbread is buttery and savory, with a nice, grainy texture against the tongue. Half the pleasure of cornbread is that texture, the unmistakable coarseness that is the character of the grain itself. I prefer a hearty cornmeal, one that hasn’t been ground so much that it is almost flour. This bread still had personality, and lent itself well to enhance the other dishes. But I will get to that in a moment.

Macaroni & Cheese

The Better Half tried their Cornbread Waffle & Fried Chicken combo. BSK’s Cornbread Waffle is an extremely popular dish. It’s reputation was one of the reasons we tried the restaurant. Having heard many positive advance reviews from patrons, we were assuming it would be tasty, but once I tasted it, I realized the reviews had not done it justice. The cornbread waffle at Brown Sugar may quite simply be the best waffle I have ever tasted. It had a lovely primitive texture to it, there was something comforting and earthy about this hearty chew of a waffle. A welcome departure from the soft, doughy version one might get elsewhere, these were an adventure. I am always impressed at human ingenuity in all of its forms, and imagination in cooking will stop me in my tracks every time.

I had Bar-B-Que Shrimp. The seafood itself was moist, they were fairly big crustaceans, all languishing in a traditional black butter sauce. The sauce itself was peppery hot, herbs and spices swimming in a pool of butter, with a bit of fried spinach laid over fluffy basmati rice.  The airy basmati was a nice departure from a heavier, more traditional rice, and it allowed the butter to be absorbed and eaten while taking a back seat to the flavor of the shrimp. Smart choice. And that cornbread came in handy here for soaking up the lip-smacking sauce.  Each shrimp was easily peeled, the thin shell rolling back neatly to reveal the fluffy pink meat beneath— moist and juicy, each mouthful covered in tangy, spicy sauce. Biting into these mounds of tender butter-coated shrimp was like experiencing the cheery pop of a cherry tomato, as the flavors inside explode right into your mouth. In my mind Bar-B-Que Shrimp are the crown jewel of southern cooking.

Blackened Catfish

Our dining companion sampled Brown Sugar’s Blackened Catfish, which he was extremely pleased with. He found the fish well-cooked, it’s exterior coated with a nice spice-laden heat, the inside of the fish fillet smoky and soft. The Better Half ordered the Fried Chicken as his main, and he reported it a good solid fried chicken. Not as remarkable as the waffles perhaps, but moist and crunchy in all the right places. Overall a definite success.

As a side to my meal I also had the Mac & Cheese, which was creamy and mild. Given the complexity of the Bar-be-Qued Shrimp, I felt it may have been a deliberate choice to allow the macaroni and cheese to remain such a simple dish, that it might serve as almost a palate cleanser between bites of the spicier items on the menu.

The food here is cooked with ample care and creativity, as well as an abundance of skill. I say make it a point to get there and check it out. As always ~ bon appetit!

Open from 7 - 3pm, they serve a menu that is a breakfast lunch combo all day.

Brown Sugar Kitchen

2534 Mandela Parkway
Oakland, CA 94607-1727

(510) 839-7685

http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/

http://www.tanyaholland.com/

EVERETT & JONES - Classic BBQ in an Oakland Institution

Or maybe anwhere else. But you all already knew that. So I won't do the sell you on the BBQ speech. What I will do is let you know that I've discovered a nice little treat there. Something a bit healthier than straight BBQ ribs or chicken, with all the flavor and heat of the original.



The ribs are amazing, and so is the BBQ chicken, but with all the potato salad and the cornbread, they're not exactly diet food. But a friend of mine (our PFC) showed me a little trick. They've got something here they call the BBQ chicken salad and if one orders a bit of hot sauce, along with the standard bit of dressing (I like Ranch with the BBQ sauce) it's a hot, tasty, treat without the calories of a full plate of Bar-b-que. So that's my little tip. It's become a lunchtime staple.



However, if you would prefer the standard fare, E&J still serves up the most amazing, well-cooked and delicious ribs anywhere on the planet. They may not be the only style, and some prefer the dryer kind of ribs, but none are better, and their hot sauce is HOT!

As always, Bon Appetit!

Everett & Jones
126 Broadway (2nd Street)
Oakland, CA 94617
510-663-2350
http://www.eandjbbq.com/

Price: Inexpensive - Reasonable
Dining time: this totally depends on service, which while really friendly can be slow, probably because ribs take such a long time to prepare, and if they run out right after you arrive, the next batch can be awhile. Still a great place for lunch, so if you care, ask before being seated.
Table size: More than adequate for food served.

PICAN - Oakland establishment celebrates the South in all its glory

Often my discoveries occur over the lunch hour. In the past several years, I have watched food choices grow, as establishments all over this wonderful city have come and sadly, also gone. Hopefully I will be able to revisit all of my favorites, and then many new finds, to fill you all in on the most delectable places to dine in Oakland. It will take awhile, but isn't that the fun?

Today my BH and I returned to Pican in Oakland, for a crack at their lunch menu, having been delighted recently with a birthday dinner spent there several weeks ago. Pican is fairly new, in a structure located very near the intersection of Grand and Broadway. Which makes it an easy walk from my office. Lucky for me.

We started our lunch with the Sweet Corn Bisque which is nothing short of sinful. This soup is a combination of creamy sweet corn, delicious fatty bacon bits, good-sized and chewy, they appear to be cut from slab bacon. It looks home-cured. Topped with a perfect sprinkling of red pepper flakes, this soup is a combo of flavors that is incredibly successful. It seemed to be sweetened with perhaps a hint of maple syrup, but that's only a guess. The fat in the bacon melds with the fresh sweet corn and the combination is genius. The red pepper flakes (which my husband chose to do without) added just the perfect amount of heat to the sweet cream base. I love sweet and hot, so if you don't, just have them hold the peppers. This dish is probably a summer special, so I've gone in for it twice and may return before sweet corn is no longer in season and the dish is taken off the menu.

For our next course the BH and I shared something they've named Bayou Pate. The dish is a skillet of creamy cheese mixed with blue crab. It is intended to be spread onto, or dipped with, giant homemade Bar-B-Q potato chips. They make them fresh daily and the chips are perfection. I preferred to spread a thin layer of the rich cheesy dip over my chips, BH just dug in and dipped his. A few broke, but the skillet kept the sauce hot enough to remain melted and liquid for as long as we were eating the dish. I loved it, as did he. This sort of fanciful 'twist' on the labeling and presentation of high end cuisine using comfort food ingredients is one of the things I like best about this place. They take comfort food favorites of the deep south (the chef is from Atlanta and the owner from New Orleans) and make them their own. The presentation and flavors are extremely upscale, the portions generous, the platings are appealing and the service is excellent. Welcoming, professional and prompt.

I followed my soup with the Louisiana Crawfish Cake, a thick, patty of perfect moist shredded crawfish, blended with seasonings I found complimented the seafood's flavor wonderfully. Crab Cakes are a personal favorite of mine, and I found this twist on the dish thoroughly enjoyable. Simple, fresh and mouth-watering. It was accompanied by a well-dressed salad of greens and halved baby tomatoes. The dressing was a light, inobtrusive oil and vinegar that added just the amount of flavoring required to round out the dish.

My BH ordered the Shrimp and Grits. He loved it, so I tasted it and soon discovered why. The large prawns were cooked perfectly, but it is the grits that make this dish. They are a cloudy pillow of buttery goodness. Soft, creamy and golden, if you have ever hesitated ordering grits --- hesitate no more --- this is the place to begin. You might find yourself an instant convert.

Since it was the lunch hour, we had to dash. No dessert today. But when we had dinner the other night at Pican we shared the complimentary Banana Pudding (a hospitable touch for a birthday guest) and an order of the Fried Peach Pie. The pudding was simple pudding with vanilla cookies tucked into the folds, and while it was good, the peach pie was out of this world. Surrounded with a flaky crust, resembling nothing so much as a croissant, the filling was sugary fresh peaches. The chef named the filling "sweet sexy" and it's an apt description. Imagine that concoction deep fried, served hot, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and well, wow.

Pican is a jewel in the new Oakland Gourmet Ghetto and I predict it will be around for a good many years to come. Business seems lively, and it's a great spot to meet people in the evenings. The decor is gorgeous, open and welcoming. Really reminiscent of some of my favorite New Orleans hot spots. The cocktails deserve a blog of their own. They've got a Bourbon Bar!

Pican

A Taste of the South

2295 Broadway, at 23rd

Oakland, CA 94612

510.250.2270

Website: http://www.picanrestaurant.com/

Check it out, and Bon Appetit!

Price: Expensive

Eating Time: Lunchable (can be done in an hour if needs be)

Table Size: Comfortable. When all food is served there is plenty of room for the plates.