FALL CHOCOLATE SALON - San Francisco - November 13, 2011

As the seasons change and we approach the holidays, I’m usually not thinking about Christmas.  The first Halloween pumpkins and water-cooler chatter of the possibilities of who can make the most inventive costumes doesn’t bring me straight to Christmas trees and sugar plums.  But my thoughts do turn to something sugary.  Here in the Bay the approaching year’s end can mean only one thing: the Fall Chocolate Salon put on by Taste TV at Fort Mason.  Cause they, well, they have chocolate.

And not just any chocolate.  TASTE TV’s Fall Chocolate Salon is the Willie Wonka of chocolate experiences.  The World Cup of Chocolate Salons.  Held at Fort Mason, artisans from all over  arrive with all manner of magical concoctions and set up their wares to be tasted.  They are there to be experienced, to be promoted and to be judged.  Since it’s a competition of sorts, these artisans have delivered the best of their best, in the hopes of being among the chosen. But they are also there to expose us to the unimaginable variety of choice that is the face of modern chocolate manufacturing.

In this big sprawling room can be found an array of the best chocolates available in the world today.   Concoctions featuring sourced cacao from places like Bolivia, Venezuela, and Trinidad; some even from the hidden forests of the Amazon.   These beans have been harvested from across the globe and have been processed to make a myriad of chocolate treats:  raw, milk, dark, light, soft, crunchy, even sweet and savory.

I was not surprised to discover that many of these chocolate companies are family run, and their pride is palpable.  Treasured family recipes have been perfected for generations.  Elite events like this are the perfect opportunity for these proud descendants of pioneer chocolatiers to share their bounty with the world.  They offer their confections with such genuine enthusiasm.  They are not merely selling, they are aglow with the joy of what they offer.  They are inspiring.  Some have developed new or perfected versions of beloved childhood favorites, some have invented completely new recipes.  Siblings, cousins, couples and friends have come together to collaborate and along their journey have discovered much, and all of it should be shared.

These are magnificent artists.  They have discovered ways to incorporate more brilliant color in the shell of a truffle.  These are inventive and inspired chefs who have found flavor combinations as yet untasted.  And they will often be presented here at the Chocolate Salon.  Among the vendors can also be found a new generation of earth-conscious entrepreneurs who inspire us by their insistence on using beans from free-trade farms, and green technologies, ensuring that the populations of those source countries will also share in the profits.  They want in their own way to help the world benefit from our global delight in chocolate.

This fair is more than merely a contest or a “candy” extravaganza.  It is a giant tent of love, full of amazing expressions of human inventiveness manifested in chocolate.  Truffles in every color of the rainbow.  Bars of every shape and size.  Flavors spicy, sweet and savory.  The palate is assaulted with it all —   coconut, ginger, jalapeno, pineapple, mango, coffee— and it just goes on from there.  This is a room chock-full of chocolate, but it is also a place where the air is laden with the scent of cacao, and the artisans who have found their muse in this mythical substance of history, have outdone themselves to come up with a new and intriguing variation on ways to reinvent it for the world.

More information can be found at http://www.fallchocolatesalon.com.  I suggest you go and check it out.  Make a few memories of your own.

Postscript: It’s a great place to shop for the holidays, if you can think about them while overwhelmed with the glory of all the chocolate.  The packaging is gorgeous, sexy, pretty and inventive.  A little something for everyone.

Among the participants this Fall are  Amano Artisan Chocolate, CocoTutti, ChoclatiQue, Snake & Butterfly, Permano, Willet's Mini Creations, Leonidas Fresh Belgian Chocolate, Saratoga Chocolates, Victoria Chocolatier, Nicole Lee Fine Chocolates, Sterling Truffle Bar, Toffeeology, The TeaRoom Chocolate Company, Monterey Chocolate Company, Marich Confectionery, Sixthcourse Artisan Confections, Toffee Talk, Dandelion Chocolate, MDP Signature Chocolates, Au Coeur Des Chocolats, Seattle Chocolate Company, Butterfly Brittle, Be A Gourmet, Jack & Jason's Pancakes & Waffles, Urban Legend Cellars, The Winery SF, Jerk'NPickle, TasteTV, and more.

More information can be found at http://www.fallchocolatesalon.com.  I suggest you go and check it out.  Make a few memories of your own.

FEARLESS Chocolates: Raw. Organic. Direct-Trade. Chocolatiers with a Global Conscience.



FEARLESS' Dark Midnight Bar

 There is nothing quite like the sensation of a chocolate bar dissolving on the tongue. The way the naturally bittersweet properties of the cacao and the bindings used to give form to the bar release, melting together as they yield to the body heat of the mouth. Some are slower to melt than others, but when it all combines in that unforgettable alchemy, that singular taste and velvety texture that we recognize as chocolate, the experience is transformative. It is no wonder that this substance that stimulates the palate so seductively has been the subject of the efforts of so many food artisans in their quest to perfect the chocolate experience.

The FEARLESS product is organic and perhaps to reinforce that point of view, their packaging is both thoughtfully green and awash with whimsy. The beguiling (and trademarked) missing “bite” is an intriguing physical representation of the company’s commitment to giving 1% of its annual profits to “change makers” recommended by its customers. A lovely attitude to go along with a high-quality (and seductively tasty) product.



The missing "bite"

 I should note that once upon a time dark chocolate was not my preference. Raised on Hershey Bars and over-sugared Easter candy, my palate was underdeveloped when it came to the finer flavors of the cacao bean. Fortunately for me, my tastes have evolved. The more I am exposed to the flavors hidden within chocolate in its more natural state, the more I like it. Dark chocolate is more complicated in taste, more unique in texture. (And it’s healthier!) Dark chocolate possesses a taste more reflective of the natural botanical mystery that caused the early Mezoamerican Indians to elevate chocolate from foodstuff to food of the gods those thousands of years ago. (Did I mention it’s healthier?)

The current trend in the food industry is to draw attention to the natural flavors our foodstuffs possess by processing them less and more strategically. Given that organic foods are often naturally imbued with unique flavors inherent to their original locale —  the minerals in the earth, other plant life, an ocean breeze — all combine to make them unique to that time and place, so the trend toward allowing theses properties to shine through post-preparation is a smart move.

FEARLESS sources their beans from the Bahia Region of Brazil near Salvador, a locale with a rich history in the farming of cacao sometimes called the “Cacao Coast.” The specific beans FEARLESS uses are the Paraparazinho Maranao, a varietal of Brazilian cacao bean indigenous to coastal Brazil. Coming to fruition in the lush rainforests of Bahia, the beans acquire flavors that possess (according to FEARLESS press packet) “earthy and chocolate-y base-notes accented with bright hints of apricot and pineapple.” These nuanced flavors are carefully preserved during FEARLESS chocolate making process, taking our palates on a global journey and allowing the consumer to imbibe the flavor profiles of exotic locales.

The cacao beans used are sourced Direct-Trade, from sustainably managed family farms, where the workers receive better than Fair-Trade wages. This was not always the case. In fact, the history of the locale of these beans is a fascinating one. What began centuries ago as a slave trade has reimagined itself as a source of employment and hope for the small indigenous farmers of Brazil who have cultivated the cacao bean for as long as they can remember, in an unbroken chain of people who have worked this land for centuries. In fact the beans of Bahia have a history so intriguing that the culture of the cacao is the subject of a film documentary currently being developed to showcase the story of this Brazilian chocolate source as seen through the eyes of mystical farmer Diego Badaro. Another subject of the film, Chocolatier Frederick Schilling, happens to be an advisor to FEARLESS Chocolates. It would appear that those dedicated to bringing Fair-Trade Chocolate to the world are willing to work together to accomplish their goals. Inspiring.

Before I get into the specifics of flavor, I should note that FEARLESS’ bars are beautifully crafted. The FEARLESS logo, a cheery little elephant, trots across each bar, his rotund little features stamped into a single square along the bottom. He looks as though he’s making his way across the bar with purpose. The remainder of the bar is covered in chubby little stars. The bars are delicate and thin, perhaps a result of the raw chocolate processes used by FEARLESS in their production. The company is wholeheartedly committed to keeping as much nutrient in the cacao as possible, so they use their own proprietary process to formulate their bars. I thought the size was just perfect for allowing the various flavors of the ingredients in each bar to come through efficiently, as each bite melted on my tongue.

70% Cacao - Super Seeds Hemp Chia Flax (Dark Chocolate):
Other than chocolate, the primary ingredients for this bar are hemp, chia and flax. The flax seeds give a nice crunch to the mouthfeel, adding an earthy, almost grassy taste on the palate. The nose of the bar is a rich, chocolate punch, but one can definitely smell the hemp pushing its way to the forefront. Hemp is after all, a fairly assertive flavor. FEARLESS bars are sweetened with the unassuming sweetness of Rapadura (unrefined cane sugar), a natural sweetener that enhances rather than competes with the lush dark flavor of the chocolate. Excellent.

70% Cacao - Sweet & Hot Hibiscus Ginger (Dark Chocolate):
The bar is also sweetened with Rapadura. Rapadura is the Brazilian name for the raw cane sugar that is processed by first extracting the pure juice from the sugar cane. Once extracted with the use of a press, the fluid is then evaporated over low heats, never allowing the product to cook.  Stirred with paddles to aid in the evaporation the final mixture is pushed through a seive to produce a grainy raw sugar. Since the sugar is never separated from the molasses, this product has more nutrients, vitamins and minerals than other cane sugars. Rapadura lends its warm molasses taste to beautifully enhance the exuberance of the rich cacao, and is just sweet enough, without being cloying.

The nose of this bar is less earthy, a bite yields a slightly lighter, more chocolatey taste, and it is perhaps a little sweeter to the tastebuds than the Hemp/Flax bar. First the mouth experiences the energy of the ginger tucked gently into the heart of the chocolate, its heat naturally warming the mouth. The ginger is followed by a sweet subtle cacao. Just as the sensation of that combination fades, the light floral finish of the Hibiscus makes itself known, the breath exhaling its smoky flower.

 70% Cacao - Matcha Green Tea / Peppermint (Dark Chocolate):
The nose of this bar is cool and minty, the green tea coming through in a hint of leafy verdant goodness. The prevalent sense is tea, and this bar is quite bitter, but in a good way, as though the chocolate were an athlete aware of his strength and flexing his muscle. I found I grew accustomed to the strength of the tea flavoring in the eating and it got better with each bite. The sweetness in this bar definitely comes as an after note to the leafy tea, the mint is quite subtle except in the initial nose. This bar may be the creamiest of the three. It is also rich with antioxidants, the candy bar version of a friend with benefits.

 75% Cacao - Dark As Midnight (Dark Chocolate):
This bar is perhaps the simplest and yet remains surprisingly complex. With a touch more cacao than the others, the sugar again takes a back seat to the chocolate, which stands alone, its commanding presence demanding attention. There is an amazing complexity to the flavor of an artisan chocolate. As the chocolate bar deconstructs on the palate, the essences of a variety of flavors present themselves as if in shadow, spices carried on a breeze from Brazil, unfolding and revealing themselves slowly. The palate senses that which does and does not seem essentially chocolate, though clearly it is all the properties the cacao has carried in its seeds from its homeland. It is no wonder that chocolate is the stuff of legend.



Whimsical Packaging

 After experiencing their wares firsthand, (and it was an experience) I believe the folks at FEARLESS Chocolates are well on their way to establishing themselves as another of the many premiere chocolatiers in the Bay Area’s ever growing panoply of artists are distinguishing themselves as worthy of note in the field of cacao preparation.

All that, and healthy too? My husband is delighted that he has a new excuse to be eating more heart healthy chocolate. I plan on tucking a nice stash of the mint chocolate bars on his nightstand for medicinal purposes. Of course!

Check them out for yourself at http://www.FEARLESSchocolate.com/2010/  - bars can be purchased on line at http://www.FEARLESSchocolate.com/Shop/

And if you are as fascinated as I am with the growing world of global Fair Trade Organic Cacao, the Chocolate Documentary site bears checking out as well. http://chocolatedocumentary.com/  
 
Bon Appetit!

CHOCOLATE~ Food of Mystery, Myth and Magic



Amano Artisan hot chocolate drink



Is there anything we can’t imagine when we think of chocolate? Its taste is transformative. Its presence on the tongue intrigues, the familiar slow melt from solid to liquid somehow reassures. This is a substance perfect in its texture and flavor. Dark and bitter or milky and sweet — there is something completely intoxicating about chocolate.

Its origin is the stuff of legend. Mired in mythology and a complex history of ritual, superstition and intrigue that brought the substance from the jungles of Mesoamerica to the tables of Spanish Kings. The earliest Mayans enjoyed “xocolatl” and believed the tiny beads found within the cacao pods to have restorative powers. The bitter brew made from grinding the seeds and mingling heated water, chile peppers, and cornmeal was a frothy ambrosia considered too precious for anyone but the tribal rulers and priests to consume. Eventually the spicy drink concoction evolved with the inclusion of vanilla or achiote, but no early version was sweetened, as sugar was unavailable in ancient Mesoamerican culture.

Drinking chocolate was an important ritual of early Mayan and Aztec life. In Mayan culture it was the beverage of kings. But in Aztec society, consumption expanded to various levels of that society’s upper echelon: rulers, priests, successful merchants, victorious soldiers, many such notables could partake of this sacred brew. Cacao seeds themselves were offered to the gods for favors and chocolate drinks were served during sacred ceremonies.

Columbus brought a sample of the first cocoa beans to Europe some time between the year 1502 and 1504, after his fourth visit to the 'New World'. But its value went unrecognized, despite his claims that it could produce a beverage that “builds resistance and fights fatigue.”



Saratoga Chocolates
http://saratogachocolates.com/

 Some time later in 1528, Cortèz presented the Spanish King with cacao beans, preparing some of the beverage called chocolatl for him to taste. Cortèz’ royal version now had a major twist, the addition of sugar to the brew. When this sweetened mixture of cacao beans, vanilla, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, and cinnamon was experienced by the Spaniards, the reception was universally positive. Chocolate soon became a coveted taste sensation, drinking it was fashionable and reserved for the Spanish nobility, and others who could afford the pricy import. Demand rapidly grew throughout Europe — the fruits of this tree from an Indian forest far away were coveted by everyone in Spain. Yet for the next one hundred years, chocolate was a secret that Spain managed to keep from the rest of the world.

But it couldn’t be contained forever. This water-based form of spiced and sweetened hot chocolate eventually began to make its way across the continent and throughout Europe. The sweetened mixture was soon improved further by the addition of milk, and in most versions removal of the chile pepper (though given some of the variations of chocolate and chile I have tasted recently, I remain unconvinced that this is necessarily an improvement). This newly evolved version of liquid chocolate was wildly popular, and began to be enjoyed by all levels of society that could afford such delicacies for another hundred years or so.

For centuries, a liquid form remained the only way to enjoy the fruits of the cacao bean, until in 1847 Joseph Fry discovered a process to re-solidify powdered chocolate. His discovery is accepted by most as the ancestor to all versions of the modern chocolate bar. Fry developed a process by which melted cacao butter could be reintroduced gradually back into the de-fatted cocoa powder base. This method returned the “Dutched” chocolate to a more solid form, creating a paste that could be pressed into a mold. Add a little sugar to the mix, and voila! The resulting bar was such a hit that people soon began to think of eating chocolate as much as they did drinking it. The chocolate bar was born.



Plumeria Flours

 Even the genesis of the word “chocolate” itself is shrouded in mystery. Most believe the term originates from the Aztec “xocolatl” which meant something like “bitter drink.” The tree's botanical name, Theobroma cacao, pays homage to its mythical origins. Translated from the Greek, "theobroma" means loosely "food of the gods.” The Aztecs believed that ancient prophets had brought the cacao beans to them, imbuing the tree itself with mystical qualities.

The substance is more than just luxurious and tasty. Chocolate has been found to posess chemicals that actually strengthen the enamel on our teeth. Small quantities of dark chocolate have been found to lower blood pressure in humans. Many believe chocolate is an aphrodisiac and while there may not be any scientific evidence to support that theory, eating it certainly can stimulate those pleasure endorphins. Chocolate is naturally dark, satiny on the tongue, rich and creamy. Chocolate is the food of the gods, the stuff of dreams. A substance almost sinfully good, chocolate is — magic.

With that kind of history, how does one fail to attend a prestigious Chocolate Salon when invited? The answer is you don’t! TASTE TV’s Fall Chocolate Salon was held at Fort Mason on a gorgeous November day. The two rooms were chock full — not merely of delicious samplings of chocolate treats, but of artisans who have dedicated their lives to discovering every nuance, every variation on a theme of flavor that this legendary substance can provide. Some of the Participants and a few taste highlights are listed below.

One of the first things we tasted were the Salt Side Down (http://www.saltsidedownchocolates.com/ ) truffles, a lovely truffle creation intended to be eaten upside down in order to allow the salt to preface its flavor profile; TCHO (http://www.tcho.com/) offered samples in the form of tiny discs of dark bittersweet chocolate, one particularly successful variety was flavored with citrus; the fall pallette of the hand-painted shells of Landru’s (http://landruchocolates.com/ ) marvelously crafted truffles were eye-catching.



Socola's Sister Act produces amazing wares
http://www.socolachocolates.com/

 A particularly enjoyable stop was the ChocolatiQue (http://www.choclatique.com/blog/) table. Their traditional family recipes combined with amazing flavor combinations were just outstanding. A truffle designed to warm in the mouth and recreate the sensations of Hot Cocoa was fairly successful at the trickery, and another that when eaten collapsed upon itself to recreate the flavors of a Root Beer Float was a hoot. The owner, quite proud of his family recipes for both toffee and fudge had every reason to be so, his grandfather & grandmother had left behind some fabulous road maps to confection heaven. So many creations, so little time.

Moving on to the Tea Room Chocolates (http://www.thetearoom.biz/)-- their chocolate bars were perhaps the most memorable. I tasted their Milk Chocolate Bar Infused with Black Masala Chai Tea which simply put was one of the most transformative taste experiences I’ve had. Their tea-infused dark chocolates were creamy and flavorful and the pleasant sensation of eating them lingered with me for the balance of the afternoon. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the surprising combination of chai and chocolate in particular. Another extraordinarily memorable chocolatier proved to be Sterling Confections (http://sterlingconfections.com/) whose triangular truffle bars of a colorful fondant-like shell filled with delectable ganache were as stunningly lovely and creative as they were delicious. The soft consistency of the bar is designed to make slicing it a breeze.

Clarine's Florentines
http://clarinesflorentines.com/

Snake & Butterfly’s(http://www.snakeandbutterfly.com/) wares are Organic & Fair Trade which for many is the only way to purchase. Good news for them, S&B’s treats suffer no loss in quality for being green. The thoughtfulness in their preparation shines through to the flavors delivered — all were just perfection. Same holds true of the chocolate offerings at Carlos Mann Nicaraguan Artisan Chocolates (http://www.ometeote.com/) & Au Coeur Des Chocolats (http://www.heartofchocolates.com/).  So many impressive artists in the house.

Another creative presentation were the chocolate covered Oreos delivered at Plumeria Flours (http://www.plumeriaflours.com/). Fun, fanciful and original, the cookies are covered in a creamy chocolate sensation and then decorated like flowers, baseballs, all manner and variety of artistically rendered themes. Jade Chocolates (http://www.jadechocolates.com/) presented a Dragon’s Breath Bar which came near the end of my day, but tasting it knocked my socks off. The flavor profile was extremely complex. The bar is at first the sensation of a delicate crunch as the toasted sesame releases into the mouth in gentle pops, immediately the smoky tea-infused chocolate fills the mouth with that languine, creaminess that only well-developed chocolate can provide. Just as the chocolate begins to fade, the bar finishes with a subtle kick of chili in the back of the throat. SPEC tacular!

Vice Chocolates (http://www.vicechocolates.com/) had easily the most decadent and eye-catching packaging I’ve seen in years. If chocolate is an aphrodisiac, then this is definitely how it should look! Christopher Michael Chocolates (http://www.chrischocolates.com/) were passing out bits of bacon truffle toward the end of my day which I found intriguing.

They say we save the best for last, and perhaps that may be Amano Artisan Chocolates (http://www.amanochocolate.com/). After so many tastings and so many many good flavors, we came upon Amano fairly late in the day. Almost at the point where my tastebuds were tuckered to the point of numbness. But not so once I tasted their offerings. The first item presented was a hot chocolate drink that could easily been a cup of the brew that first knocked the socks off of the King of Spain. A heavenly form of chocolate this liquid ambrosia. Every other item at their table that I tasted was some form of superlative artistry. This is an outfit that clearly has mastered the preparation and service of chocolate. Transformative stuff.

These artisans and more can be found at http://www.fallchocolatesalon.com/. I suggest you visit a few of the ones that appeal to you for some decadent Holiday shopping. This was a delightful event, and I look forward to making it an annual treat.

Check them ALL out, and Bon appetit!

For info on Taste TV’s upcoming Salong: http://www.tastetv.com/sfchocolatesalon_index.html
Full list of participants - http://www.tastetv.com/sf-fallsalon_partners.html